Keller Mountain is one of the prominent peaks of the Gore Range and has a really fun and enjoyable class 3 scramble up its east ridge.This route & peak had been on my tick-list for awhile and is even featured in David Cooper’s Colorado Scrambles book. As Kristine and I had our friends Brett & Maura’s wedding in Parker (south Denver) last Saturday evening, we decided to check out Keller Mountain on the way down. Reid Jennings also joined us for the climb. I believe we set off up the North Rock Creek trail around 7am and made speedy time up to the Boss Mine at 2.2 miles. We then steeply climbed up the mine ruins over dirt, talus, and an occasional trail to reach the treed east ridge. Breaking through treeline, we then saw the beginning of the boulder-strewn slope leading up to the first point along the east ridge.

Kristine making her way up to the starting point for the east ridge scramble

We passed a team or two on the way up and began the fun class 3 scrambling along Keller’s east ridge up and over Point 12,847′, a sub-summit of Keller, and then on along to Keller’s true summit.

The classic east ridge scramble to Keller’s summit

Mt. of the Holy Cross framed by North Traverse Peak (left) and the end point of the Keller Mtn Ridge, Point 12,860′ (right). We ended up reaching the saddle between these two peaks and descending back into the North Rock Creek drainage

The Gore Grand Traverse from the northeast. Grand Traverse Peak on left and North Traverse Peak on right

I think any of us would highly recommend this east ridge route to folks who are looking for a fun and enjoyable class 3 scramble in the Gores. We pretty much stayed ridge-proper the entire time, which maybe had a class 4 move here and there, but one can definitely keep it at class 3 by slightly dropping to either side of the ridge crest.

Scrambling with other climbers on Point 12,847′ behind

Kristine having fun

Reid

Along the east ridge

Another downclimb on the east ridge proper

We then topped out around 10am on Keller’s summit and enjoyed the views.

Keller Mountain summit (13,085′)

Instead of backtracking the east ridge, we decided to continue on along the ridge towards the southwest over a few more unranked & unnamed summits. It was a fun scramble over to Point 13,055′ and then further on over class 3/4 rock to the lower Point 12,860′ from which we dropped down to the saddle with North Traverse Peak, the northern terminus of the Gore Grand Traverse.

Reid & Kristine along the ridge to Point 13,055′ with Keller’s summit behind

Reid topping out on Point 13,055′ framed by Keller Mountain (left) and Point 12,847′ (right) along Keller’s east ridge

Looking south from Point 13,055′

Reid along the fun ridge to Point 12,860′

Reid

Connecting ridge from Point 12,860′ to Climber’s Point (13,005′)

Looking southeast from Point 12,860′

We then figured we could drop into the North Rock Creek drainage from the saddle and make our way bushwhacking through the thick willows and forests once we got below treeline. We passed an isolated lake right at treeline in the upper basin which was gorgeous.

Isolated lake high in North Rock Creek drainage

Grouse

However, the bushwhacking that ensued through the willows exceeded our expectations and not for the better. The willows were so thick we were stepping on branches and not even earth. I was actually getting a bit concerned with our timing with regards to making the wedding if we didn’t come upon some sort of a trail. As fortune would have it, we got through the willows, dropped down to a boulder field, and fortunately found a cairned faint trail leading the direction we wanted to go. Another hour along this faint trail got us to the Boss Mine from where we continued on the North Rock Creek Trail back to the cars arriving around 2:30pm. I feel fortunate we found that faint trail in the North Rock Creek drainage because with anymore bushwhacking, we would have likely not made the wedding. I think we all enjoyed making the Keller Mountain climb a loop and extending the ridge traverse all the way to the saddle with North Traverse Peak. It was a fun outing. Total stats was approximately 12.5 miles and 7.5 hrs roundtrip with maybe 4,300′ of elevation gain. And, we made the wedding just fine.

The famous Crestone Traverse, one of Colorado’s 4 great fourteener traverses, is truly a celebrated classic scramble. Its even described in David Cooper’s Colorado Scrambles book. This traverse links the two famous and more difficult 14ers, Crestone Needle & Crestone Peak, down in the Sangre de Cristo Range. However, the traverse stays primarily on the west side of the ridge and does not follow the ridge proper for good reason. Following the ridge proper would entail serious class 5 climbing and likely many rappels. And, this traverse is supposed to be a scramble.

Crestone Needle (left) & Crestone Peak (right) as seen from Humboldt Peak back in 2009

Despite having climbed Crestone Needle & Crestone Peak each twice over the years and attempted the traverse once back in October 2007, I have always wanted to get back and finish it. That cold October day back in 2007 was full of routefinding issues not to mention a high fever I was running thus all contributing to us bailing off the traverse down a rocky couloir to the west.

Derek & I on the summit of Crestone Peak eating KFC in late October 2007 before our failed attempt on the traverse

My good friend Reid Jennings had been asking me to go with him down to the Crestones and do the traverse as he had not climbed these peaks. I was definitely in as I wanted to finish the traverse as well as help Reid fulfill his 14er goals. Good friend Derek Drechsel, who was with me on the original traverse attempt and who has since finished climbing all of Colorado’s 14ers, wanted to go back. Lastly, Mike Santoro joined us as he is an avid rock climber with me and wants to really get into the 14er frenzy, especially the more scrambly ones. Mike & I drove down from Vail and met Reid & Derek at the new South Colony Trailhead around 10:45pm Friday night as they were coming from Denver. Since Derek & I were last in the Crestones for Ryan “Baba” Aldrich’s 14er finale on Humboldt Peak in July 2009, the forest service had closed the upper half of the 5 mile long 4wd South Colony Lakes Road and installed a new trailhead and gated the road adding an extra 2.6 miles each way for the climb.

Ryan “Baba” Aldrich’s 14er finale extravaganza on the summit of Humboldt Peak in July 2009

Due to the extra mileage and the strong chance for thunderstorms brewing before noon, I suggested we leave the cars around 2:30am and that’s exactly what we did despite only having gotten an hour or two of solid sleep. We made good time to the upper trailhead where we had parked all those times before covering the 2.6 miles and 1000′ vertical gain in just less than an hour. We made good time in the dark to the vicinity of Lower South Colony Lake and made the turn off for Broken Hand Pass. The moderate class 3 scrambling up to Broken Hand Pass (12,850′) was easy enough in the dark. The issue with going up Broken Hand Pass is that you then have to descend over 500′ down to Cottonwood Lake before starting up the Red Couloir of Crestone Peak. It started getting light enough once we reached Cottonwood Lake to see our ascent route ahead up the fun class 3 Red Couloir.

Reid & Mike in good form climbing the Red Couloir on Crestone Peak

The Blanca Group with the Sand Dunes at lower right

Mikey have a ball in the Red Couloir

We reached the top of Crestone Peak just after 7am, which I believe was the earliest in the day I have ever stood atop a 14er. The early morning misty clouds engulfed the final few hundred feet of Crestone Peak, which definitely gave an eerie yet magical feel to the summit. Everyone was excited, especially Reid & Mike, for whom this was a new 14er summit.

Crestone Peak summit (14,294′)

The San Luis Valley 6,000′ below

We didn’t dabble too long on the summit as we had to descend back down the Red Couloir a few hundred feet to find the exit for the traverse. Derek & I had spotted the cairned exit on the ascent and so we begin the fun walking on exposed grass ledges interspersed with some scrambling to start the traverse.

Me checking out the exit in the Red Couloir to start the traverse

The easy first half of the traverse across grass ledges and short gullies

Crestone Needle and its north ridge comprising several gendarmes looking ominous through the clouds

The weather so far was on our side and we made good time up the class 3 rock gully to the mid point of the traverse at the base of the ominous Black Gendarme – a 200’+ tower of crestone rock.

The fun class 3 gully that leads to the base of the monstrous Black Gendarme

This is where Derek, me, and our crew got all turned around 6 years ago. However, I knew the route now much better and the climbing from here on out went like clockwork. We ascended a short (maybe 10′) 5.2 crux to enter the steep gully immediately to the south of the Black Gendarme. After some class 3 climbing up the gully to the notch where we could peer 2,500′ down to Upper South Colony Lake, we hopped on an exposed but short knife-edge ridge to access the class 3 Z-ledges (named so because of the zig-zag nature) which eventually led up to the final class 4 summit pitch. These ledges consisted of pretty fun scrambling and were definitely much mellower than they appear from down below the Black Gendarme. Everyone was doing extemely well and all making good time.

The Black Gendarme which begins Crestone Needle’s north ridge. The 5.2 technical crux is shown to the Black Gendarme’s right (south) followed by a class 3 climb up the gully to a mini knife-ridge

The final 500′ up to Crestone Needle on the Crestone Traverse (picture taken back in July 2009)

Mike ascending the 5.2 technical crux of the traverse just to the south of the Black Gendarme

Though low 5th class, this crux is only about 10 ft

Derek showing us how its done on the mini knife-ridge

The class 3 Z-ledges

The Z-ledges are really fun class 3 climbing which spit you out at the base of the final class 4 headwall up to Crestone Needle’s summit via the north ridge

Mike loving the crestone conglomerate holds

Derek enjoying the scrambling

The final class 4 summit pitch up Crestone Needle’s north ridge is what this traverse is all about. Good climbing on solid crestone conglomerate rock up a steep 100′ pitch with some awesome exposure and alot of air under your feet all help to make this a memorable scramble. The airy position of this summit pitch definitely adds to the intensity and excitement. I said for Mikey to start up first as he reached my position at the base of the summit pitch shortly followed by Derek.

Derek & Mike climbing the class 4 summit pitch up to Crestone Needle

I knew Reid and/or others may want to be belayed on this pitch, so I brought my 30m/8mm rope, harness, a selection of cams and slings just in case, which I am always more than happy to do. I want my buddies to feel comfortable climbing these pitches and if it helps ease their minds so they can climb well, I am all for that. I knew Reid may want a belay for this pitch as it is very exposed. He definitely agreed and so we harnessed up and I climbed the pitch with one end of the rope tied to my harness.

Me almost to the fixed webbing atop the class 4 summit pitch on Crestone Needle

I anchored myself into the webbing which was in place slung around a rock and belayed Reid up the pitch. It was fun for me watching him climb up the class 4 rock with the incredible air beneath his feet.

Reid climbing the class 4 summit pitch

This pitch is so awesome. Classic crestone conglomerate climbing in a very airy position

I was getting pretty cold with the wind and 14,000′ air temperature with just my shorts on (not all that smart, I know), but Reid topped out in no time and I took him off belay. We then stowed the gear in our packs and scrambled up the final easy ridge to the summit where we joined Mike & Derek.

Reid on the short scramble to the summit of Crestone Needle

It was a celebratory summit for all, but we didn’t stay too long because of the wind and cold. The Crestone Traverse had taken us about 2 hrs summit to summit.

Crestone Needle summit (14,197′)

We then descended the class 3/4 east gully on Crestone Needle’s south face the entire way down to the trail leading back to Broken Hand Pass to complete the full loop. I had forgotten how fun this Crestone Needle east gully climbing really was – even going down.

Descending the east gully of Crestone Needle on its south face

Mike & Reid almost back to Broken Hand Pass with Crestone Needle’s east gully behind

We all eventually made it back to Lower South Colony Lake around 11am and soaked our feet for half an hour. We arrived back at the cars around 1:30pm for an approximate 13 mile roundtrip day with 6,000′ of vertical gain. After an awesome deli sandwich in Westcliffe, we said our goodbyes and congrats and went on our respective ways back to Vail & Denver. The next day Kristine was planning a hike with our good friend Lauren McKeone and all the dogs up the familiar Villa Ridge on the high 13er Drift Peak (13,900′), so I joined them on the fun hike. We started hiking around 8am or so and returned to the car around 12:30pm for a wonderful half day hike with all the ladies – 2 humans and 4 dogs. I am a lucky guy. It was all of their first summit of Drift Peak which made it extra special.

Kristine & Lauren climbing above the clouds on Drift Peak’s Villa Ridge

The clouds seeping through the notches in the Drift Peak-Wheeler Mtn ridge

Scout & Lauren on the summit of Drift Peak (13,900′)

The Chalks on the summit of Drift Peak (13,900′)

I wanted to relay some information/beta on this traverse as I couldn’t find much on it other than a faint route description over on summitpost. I hope it helps some folks who intend on attempting this traverse.

The Atlantic-Fletcher traverse with the 5 gendarmes labelled

My good buddy J and I had been eyeing this traverse for some time now. Dave Cooper in his Colorado Scrambles book calls it arguably the most dangerous of all the routes in his book. J and I found out that Cooper says this for good reason yet we both had alot of fun. The intense scrambling, routefinding, and technical rock climbing at over 13,000′ is just way too much fun. The traverse collects (3) high 13,000′ summits – Atlantic Peak (13,841′), Fletcher Mtn (13,951′), and Drift Peak (13,900′). The most difficult and dangerous section of the traverse is from Atlantic to Fletcher which includes navigating (5) pretty serious gendarmes and more than enough loose rock. The traverse from Fletcher to Drift is mostly class 2 off trail hiking with (1) 20′ rappel if going north to south. We chose to go north to south for the entire traverse as this allowed us to climb the low 5th class pitches of the gendarmes and the crux 5.7 pitch of the 5th gendarme. We like climbing the fun stuff rather than just rappelling it!

The 5 gendarmes from Atlantic’s west ridge

I had summited each of these peaks before as J had summited Atlantic, but we had never linked them all. We left the car at 6:45am and topped out on Atlantic Peak around 8:15am after climbing the west ridge which we had done a few times before in winter and summer. We then made our way down Atlantic’s fairly mellow (class 2/2+) south ridge to the low point of the ridge between Atlantic & Fletcher.

Looking back at Atlantic’s south ridge from the low point between Atlantic & Fletcher

There is a fairly straightforward descent down a scree gully from this low point to Mayflower Gulch if weather or climber’s condition warrants a quick retreat. First on the agenda is the scramble up and over gendarme #1.

The nice class 3/4 scramble up and over gendarme #1

There is another scree saddle/gully between gendarmes #1 & #2 which also likely lends itself to a quick descent back down to Mayflower Gulch. Gendarme #2 then quickly rears up in earnest.

Gendarme #2. We scrambled pretty much straight up this face using the cracks

We climbed pretty much straight up the face for 30′ – likely low 5th class or so.

J climbing gendarme #2

Looking down gendarme #2

From the top of gendarme #2, we traversed on and just below to the right (west) of the ridge proper on a sporty ledge system until we came to a big cliff that was not downclimable (at least by us). We found a nice chimney to scramble down on the west side of the ridge to avoid this cliff and scrambled back up to the notch below the cliff to regain the ridge.

J on the sporty traverse down from the top of gendarme #2

Scrambling down to avoid the cliff

Coming around to regain the ridge

J climbing up into the notch to regain the ridge below the cliff

It was then a nice traverse on the ridge’s east side from the notch to avoid a minor tower and climb back up to regain the ridge at the base of gendarme #3.

The traverse to gendarme #3 on the ridge’s east side

Gendarme #3 provided some exciting low 5th class, potentially 5.4, climbing up a right (west)facing dihedral for about 20′. There were some slings around a rock at the top of gendarme #3 as I would definitely rap this pitch if going south to north.

Our route up gendarme #3

Looking down gendarme #3

The downclimb off of gendarme #3 was pretty fun and pretty steep. This led us to the base of the fun looking knife-edge ridge section.

The dicey downclimb we did off of gendarme #3

Gendarme #4 immediately follows the knife-edge ridge.

The fun knife-edge ridge (right) and gendarme #4 (left) from the base of gendarme #3

J on the knife-edge ridge

Its completely unnecessary to top out on gendarme #4 as the route from the north & west to its top is very loose and steep. However, once you pass gendarme #4 to its right (west), you can scramble around on class 3/4 from the south to its summit.

Our route up to the right of gendarme #4

Looking back at the knife-edge ridge & gendarme #3 from just to the right (west) of gendarme #4

We did scramble up to the top of gendarme #4 primarily to get a preview of the crux of the route, gendarme #5. I had read in Cooper’s book that this was likely a 5.7 finger crack, though not your typical 5.7 trad crack at your local crag. As I found out, loose holds abound this crack system and anything is on the verge of pulling out. However, the pro is fairly good and I was able to place 4 cams, I believe, up to the marked belay station. True to what I had read, it felt like a 5.7. Also, a 30m, 8mm rope was just enough to get me to the belay ledge.

Our route up the 5.7 crack system of gendarme #5

J cleaning the 5.7 gendarme #5

J climbing gendarme #5

Now, in retrospect, and as we would recommend to anyone going north to south, stay roped up to the top of gendarme #5. We de-roped because the remaining climbing to the top seemed reasonable and not all that steep. We were wrong and half way up, it turned sketchy pretty fast and downclimbing was not an option. We topped out on gendarme #5 just fine but kicking ourselves for not staying roped up. I think there are a few places for some reasonable, perhaps mediocre at best, protection for this last 30′ to the top of gendarme #5. If going south to north, I believe you would need to make (2) rappels down gendarme #5. You would need a 60m rope for the rap from our belay ledge to the base of the gendarme as my 30m barely was enough one way.

J scrambling up the final 30′ to the top of gendarme #5 from our belay ledge

Very sketchy, loose, and airy low 5th class climbing. This picture doesn’t show the pretty good exposure of this pitch

Looking down from the top of gendarme #5

The Mayflower Gulch Grand Traverse to Atlantic Peak from the top of gendarme #5

We then scrambled up to the summit of Fletcher Mtn over much easier terrain (class 2+).

J & I on the summit of Fletcher Mtn with the most difficult & dangerous part of the traverse behind us

The first half of the traverse to Drift Peak from Fletcher Mtn is nothing more than class 2 hiking.

Descending to the Fletch-Drift traverse low point (Fletcher Mtn behind)

We then came upon a 20′ shear drop that we didn’t feel comfortable downclimbing, so we set up a quick rap. There may have been a downclimable route around, but honestly this was quicker and we didn’t look too long.

The fun 20′ rap into the sharp notch on the Fletcher-Drift traverse

It was then pretty easy class 2+ scrambling on the ridge proper to the summit of Drift from the notch.

J & I on the summit of Drift Peak

I haven’t seen much beta (any really) on this section of ridge in the Gores dubbed “The Saw”, so figured I’d include some text and pictures for those wanting to get some isolation and solitude in the middle of Colorado’s best range. Having scrambled Ripsaw Ridge from Peak C to Peak G last Fall, I wanted to see what Peak H and beyond had in store. I’ve heard many different opinions on where Ripsaw officially ends, whether at Peak H, Peak J, West Partner, or Frisco. Well, who knows…its all subjective. However, I like to get names right when possible and per Gore Galore on this site and his information from Robert Ormes “The Saw” is indeed the ridge from Peak H to Peak J, Peak J to Peak P doesn’t officially have a name, and Peak P to West Partner is “Rockinghorse Ridge” given it’s name by the four distinct towers on West Partner’s north ridge. Personally, I like Ripsaw Ridge ending with Peak H, The Saw from Peak H to Peak J and then onto Peak P since it’s all very similar ground (endless towers), and Rockinghorse Ridge starting from Peak P to West Partner. Peak H seems like a natural barrier and distinction between Ripsaw & The Saw since the ridge drops considerably in elevation south of Peak H. Nevertheless, the plan was to traverse The Saw & Rockinghorse Ridge from Peak H to West Partner and camp another night in Upper Piney Lake basin. However, the mosquitos were so bad and we were so not prepared for them that we had to get out that day. We aborted on Rockinghorse Ridge and descended between Peak P & West Partner. Rockinghorse Ridge will have to wait a bit longer.

I’ve wanted to get back into the Gores asap after some Casacades ski mountaineering ventures and taking some folks on the Gore Grand Traverse 2 weeks prior. My good friends J, Chuck, and Baba (who used to live in Vail but had flown in from New Hampshire the day before) and I packed up and made the long backpack into the Upper Piney River Basin from Piney Lake on a late Friday afternoon. I’ve only ever been as far as the Peak C southwest couloir turnoff, so heading further south on the faint Upper Piney Lake trail towards the base of the Spider’s north face was a treat. We eventually found a vague horsepack trail that led in the direction we wanted to go, i.e. the Upper Piney River Basin. After some steep side-hilling, we leveled out and broke out of treeline into the swampy upper basin before Upper Piney Lake. Not having brought any mosquito repellant, no tent, and b/c of the fire ban, our battle with the horrendous mosquitos was fully on. I’ve been in some bad areas for mosquitos (the worst before this was in the Winds attempting Gannett Peak way back in high school). But, this took the cake. It was absolutely horrendous, so we set up our bivouac high on a good slab of rock, ate our burritos, and got in our sleeping bags fast. I haven’t slept much worse than I did that night, despite the gorgeous surroundings, with mosquitos biting and buzzing all night at my face. It was too warm to put my head under my sleeping bag. Up at 5am and leaving our bivy at 6:30am, we headed up the relatively easy south slopes of Peak H.

Peak 12,200′ & The Spider (12,692′) from Peak H’s south slopes

Sunrise over The Saw from Peak H’s south slopes

The minor class 3 gully we ascended on Peak H’s south slopes

After about an hour and a half, we topped out on Peak H on a spectacular morning. Peak H has two summits separated by the top of the “Straight Arrow Couloir” dropping off to the southeast. We found a register on the north summit with a very short list of entries dating back to the early 70s. We then looked to the southeast at the intimidating ridge to Peaks J & P and beyond. However, we were very excited to begin the adventure.

The Saw to Peaks J & P from the summit of Peak H

The descent off Peak H’s southeast ridge drops you several hundred feet of class 2/3 down to the ridge proper to begin the large slab section as could be seen from our bivy down in the basin. Perhaps this slabby knife-edge is why Ormes named the Peak H to Peak J ridge “The Saw”.

J on the slabby ridge section

The slab ridge proper ended in a cliff with no climbable way over it without the need of a rope and some pro. So, we dropped 20 vertical feet to our right (south) to find a climable 4th class weakness.

Baba climbing our 4th class exit off the slab and back onto the ridge

Some easier terrain after the initial slab section and a few towers

Chuck on a knife-edge portion of the ridge proper

There are a few larger towers that make up the middle ridge section between H & J and most of these can be climbed on the ridge proper with 4th class/low 5th moves. However, one tower would not go ridge proper much less than a 5.10 I would bet, so we traversed around to the ridge’s north side for some steep and exposed grass ledge scrambling.

Baba approaching the few towers that encompass the middle section between H & J – we went around the upcoming tower to our left (north)

Steep gassy slopes on the ridge’s north side

We then came up to an awesome looking tower that I wanted to find a way up and over. Fortunately, it worked out.

The hardiest of towers between H & J which we went up and over (route shown in red)

The crew descending the last tower after the grassy ledge system section

Chuck climbing the tower

Chuck & Baba negotiating the final moves up to the tower’s summit

More fun sections up to Peak J

One of the advantages it seemed going from H to J and not vice versa was that every time we’d climb up 4th class/low 5th towers on their northwest side, there would be a relatively easier 3rd class descent off each tower’s southeast side. Thus, we didn’t have to down climb serious terrain, which was nice. This is something we obviously did not know before hand and just worked out for us. So, in that respect, I would recommend going from H to J.

Baba & J on a semi-walking portion of the ridge

Baba making his move up another smaller tower

3/4 of the way across to J, Chuck spotted an old hex deep down in a crack. J & I spent 10 minutes freeing it

After a few more smaller towers, yet still extremely fun, it was easy class 2/3 terrain up to Peak J’s summit. J was stoked to be on Peak J We had great views of Peaks K, L, Q, R, S, & T towering above the Slate Creek Basin to our east.

The ridge to Peak P from the summit of Peak J (West Partner in the distance)

Looking back at The Saw to Peak H (the “Straight Arrow Couloir” can be seen coming down off Peak H’s summit)

We then set out for Peak P. This section of ridge between J & P was definitely much easier and shorter than from H to J, yet still fun all the same.

Baba climbing a relatively easy tower en route to Peak P

Leaving Peak J behind

J skywalking on the way to Peak P

Chuck & Baba climbing up the one significantly exposed tower with tougher moves

After some easier class 2/3 terrain, we reached Peak P’s summit around 1pm. I had heard of folks using the west slopes from Upper Piney Lake to reach Peak P, so this was always a descent option in the back of my mind. If we were going to stay another night out, Rockinghorse Ridge up to West Partner would have definitely been on our agenda, but we had made up our mind we were going to pack out to Piney Lake that day b/c there was nothing worse than the swarms of mosquitos in the Upper Piney Lake Basin. Even Rockinghorse Ridge was worth saving for another day in order to not have to spend another night out with the mosquitos.

Summit of Peak P with West Partner behind

Looking back from the summit of Peak P to where we came with Ripsw Ridge & Mt. Powell beyond

We then headed south towards West Partner over easy class 2/3 terrain and found some manageable terrain to descend down to Upper Piney Lake from the Peak P/West Partner lowpoint (better & safer than the descent gully between Peaks F & G to the west for those that know that one).

Rockinghorse Ridge to West Partner Peak from the Peak P/West Partner saddle

On the descent, we were all admiring the fun that Rockinghorse Ridge up to West Partner looks to be – another day.

Our descent routes from the Peak P/West Partner saddle to Upper Piney Lake (several options)

Upper Piney Lake Basin with Peak H to the right

Upon being back in the hot, mosquito infested Upper Piney Lake basin, a dive into Upper Piney Lake was just what the doctor ordered for all of us.

Had to do this – Upper Piney Lake dunk

Now I can truly say the Gore Range is my favorite range in Colorado. Its proximity to my home, its ruggedness and remoteness, and lack of people all combine to make this place very special and my favorite. I had been wanting to climb these remote 12ers in the heart of the Gores for some time having always gazed at them from other Gore summits and down the Piney River Valley en route to several ascents of Mt. Powell, Peak C, etc. I had always thought the southeast face up The Fly to its east ridge may make a good climb as well as the double traverse over to The Spider and back to The Fly may make a nice day. I knew there would be some snow, but hopefully the southern facing aspects would be relatively dry. We took a gamble to leave behind the microspikes/crampons and axes and turned out the gamble paid off as we were able to stay on dry rock much of the time. Loving this late Fall weather, Kristine & I backpacked the 4.5 miles into Booth Lake (11,500′) from the Booth TH (8,200′) this past Saturday afternoon. Friends J & Chuck drove to the Eisman Hut and backpacked in from there for a little extra adventure and to meet us at Booth Lake. Kristine & I arrived at the lake to find the place to ourselves at 4:30pm, 3 hrs after leaving the Booth TH. J & Chuck arrived 2 hrs later sharing many adventursome bushwhacking stories.

Our route up the Fly and over to The Spider taken from the southeast on the West Partner Peak/Outpost Peak ridge

Booth Lake (11,500′)

The Fly rising behind our campfire at dusk

After sleeping in a bit and a round of coffee, muffins, & oatmeal, we got going around 9am up to The Fly.

Typical terrain on The Fly’s southeast face

While we could have continued up the class 2/3 grass ramps and cliff bands all the way to The Fly’s summit, I had spotted an access gully to reach the east ridge proper for some fun scrambling.

Access gully to The Fly’s east ridge

On The Fly’s class 3 east ridge

Kristine climbing the fun class 3 ridge of The Fly (Upper Piney Lake in the background)

After about an hour from leaving Booth Lake, we reached The Fly’s summit. Glancing over at The Spider, I was glad to see its southern ridge fairly dry.

The Spider from The Fly’s summit

The crux would be downclimbing off The Fly’s north ridge keeping in mind how much snow we would encounter on the northern aspect and given that we didn’t bring any spikes or axes. Kristine decided to stay on the summit of The Fly for some R&R while J, Chuck, & I took off down The Fly’s north ridge to The Fly/Spider saddle. We found a mostly dry class 4 chimney on the north ridge proper to downclimb in lieu of traversing steep snow slopes on either side sans spikes/axes. Once to the lowpoint between The Fly & The Spider, we traversed class 3/4 slopes on the ridge’s west side up to The Spider. Several towers could be climbed on the ridge proper and likley go at low-mid 5th class as well.

En route to The Spider with the Spider/Fly ridge lowpoint below

The Spider’s upper south slopes

J & Chuck scrambling up to The Spider

Chuck topping out on The Spider w/ West Partner Peak behind

Me on the summit of The Spider w/ Ripsaw Ridge behind

The Fly from The Spider’s summit

After 10 minutes or so on The Spider’s summit, we started back towards The Fly. The wind was howling but otherwise it was a beautiful day. Once back at the Fly/Spider ridge lowpoint, we glanced up at the class 4 chimney we had downclimbed and headed straight for it mostly trying to stay on dry rock.

Looking up at The Fly’s north ridge from the Fly/Spider ridge lowpoint. We descended/ascended the obvious chimney in the center of the picture.

The class 4 chimney on The Fly’s north ridge proper provided the best scrambling of the day.

Chuck & J scrambling up The Fly’s north ridge

Chuck & J climbing the class 4 chimney on The Fly’s north ridge

Almost up to The Fly’s summit

Back on the summit of The Fly with Booth Lake below