Bottle Top Tower

Bottle Top Tower is a tower formation in Colorado National Monument with a top that, well, looks like a bottle top. I’ve walked by it half a dozen times climbing at Tiara Rado and have always wanted to climb its fun-looking 5.9+ route on its south side called the Bouncing Betty Route. Its only one pitch, but several hundred feet of fun class 3 to low 5th class scrambling leads up to the saddle between the tower and the mesa.

Late afternoon shade on Bottle Top Tower during the hike out from one of our visits at Tiara Rado

Late afternoon shade on Bottle Top Tower during the hike out from one of our visits at Tiara Rado

The slabs we scrambled up and right to the saddle between the tower and the mesa

The slabs we scrambled up and right to the saddle between the tower and the mesa

My buddy Ryan Marsters was on his week-long desert binge for Thanksgiving week and met me at the Gold Star Canyon trailhead around 9:30am on a Sunday morning to kick off his week. After maybe an hour or so of hiking and fun scrambling up the slabs, we made our way to the saddle and found the interesting crack on the tower’s south face which led to the summit.

Ryan scrambling up a spicy slab

Ryan scrambling up a spicy slab

Ryan doing some stem work

Ryan doing some stem work

Me trying to mimic his maneauvers

Me trying to mimic his maneuvers. Photo by Ryan

The 5.9+ crack to the summit is on the right

The 5.9+ crack to the summit is on the right

The research we had done said it to be a nice “hand crack”. Well, yes, it was a hand crack of sorts for a portion of it, but the description failed to mention a good 15-20′ section of tough, sandy off-width climbing where you really had to jamb your body and bend you leg 90 degrees using your knee on one side and your foot on the other side. There was a hand crack in the back of this off-width, but was way too far back to utilize. I think at one point I used my hips as an actual jamb. This was definitely 5.9+ climbing and being off-width felt harder than that especially since I’m not all that particular good at off-width climbing. Nevertheless, Ryan was patient with me and I pulled the small hand crack roof move at the top of the off-width and got to a decent rest. It was then fairly smooth sailing to the summit anchors (nothing over 5.8). I was glad I led the route clean.

Me starting up the crack

Me starting up the crack. Photo by Ryan

In the off-width portion. Photo by Ryan

In the off-width portion. Photo by Ryan

Me using my hip jamb. Photo by Ryan

Me using my hip jamb. Photo by Ryan

More hip jamming. Photo by Ryan

More hip jamming. Photo by Ryan

Grabbing a cam to put in the roof. Photo by Ryan

Grabbing a cam to put in the roof. Photo by Ryan

Me in the chimney portion near the top of the route. Photo by Ryan

Me in the chimney portion near the top of the route. Photo by Ryan

The two bolted anchors are on a great ledge a few feet below the summit cap. I then belayed Ryan up to me as he cleaned the route. Even though only one 80-90′ pitch of technical climbing, Bottle Top Tower was a great summit and a fun adventure.

Ryan in the chimney almost up to me at the anchors

Ryan in the chimney almost up to me at the anchors

Ryan peering over the summit cap's edge at Grand Junction

Ryan peering over the summit cap’s edge at Grand Junction

Looking east to Liberty Cap Tower in the distance

Looking east to Liberty Cap Tower in the distance

Ryan found a frozen pool of water on the summit

Ryan found a frozen pool of water on the summit

I set up my camera's timer and tried to time me karate chopping the ice ala Karate Kid Part II, but it ended up being too thick and the this was the resulting picture. Looks like I am punching Ryan :)

I set up my camera’s timer and tried to time me karate chopping the ice ala Karate Kid Part II, but it ended up being too thick and the this was the resulting picture. Looks like I am punching Ryan 🙂

Bottle Top Tower summit (5,755')

Bottle Top Tower summit (5,755′)

A nice view

A nice view

It was about noon and we rappelled the summit pitch after a good 20 minutes up top. We then stowed the rope and scrambled down the slabs back to the trail, which would take us over to Tara Rado for a few pitches of climbing. Ryan had never been to Tiara Rado, so I was excited to show him a few of my favorites.

Ryan rappelling

Ryan rappelling

Me rapping off Bottle Top Tower. Photo by Ryan

Me rapping off Bottle Top Tower. Photo by Ryan

Looking back at the tower's summit pitch

Looking back at the tower’s summit pitch. Photo by Ryan

Ryan on a nice perch on the descent

Ryan on a nice perch on the descent

Ryan heading down a fun chimney

Ryan heading down a fun chimney

Down-scrambling

Down-scrambling. Photo by Ryan

Ole Tiara Rado

Ole Tiara Rado

Ryan leading Short-Cupped Hands (5.9+)

Ryan leading Short-Cupped Hands (5.9+)

Me starting up 100' Hands (5.10b)

Me starting up 100′ Hands (5.10b)

Ryan on 100' Hands

Ryan on 100′ Hands

By 3pm it was getting pretty chilly and uncomfortable in the shade, so we decided to call it a day given we had a 45 minute hike back to the cars. All in all a great day out with Ryan and by 4pm I was heading back home and he was heading west to meet up with friends.

Sawyer’s Halloween & Uneva Circuit

Sawyer had her 1st real Halloween this year. She was only 2-3 weeks old last Halloween. We didn’t trick-or-treat, but we did everything else: carved pumpkins, costumes, and a great Halloween party. Next year we will trick-or-treat.

Carving pumpkins

Carving pumpkins

These big orange things are fun

These big orange things are fun

Sawyer in her dog costume that Dianne & Ken gave her

Sawyer in her dog costume that Dianne & Ken gave her

Vets and our dog

Vets and our dog

Hiking with Ken & Dianne

Hiking with Ken & Dianne

Family pic

Family pic

Learning to stand on her own two feet

Learning to stand on her own two feet

Lounging around

Lounging around

She likes this "standing up" thing

She likes this “standing up” thing

Loving her dogs

Loving her dogs

Sawyer loves burying her face in Rainie's fur

Sawyer loves burying her face in Rainie’s fur

And, of course, Kona tries to give Sawyer kisses

And, of course, Kona tries to give Sawyer kisses

Recovering from a fairly serious right elbow infection called Olecranon Bursitis brought on by dirt getting into a cut on the elbow joint’s bursa sac (as a result of off-width crack climbing), I was anxious to get out a bit longer than an hour hike or run. I couldn’t really climb, so Kona and I just went for a snowshoe up at Vail Pass. In retrospect, I should have brought the skis, but it was a good recon mission to the peaks north of Vail Pass, the highest of which is Uneva Peak (12,522′), which we frequent quite a bit in the snowy months. There was even another subtle 12er I had never visited dubbed “Sneva” that I thought I would pay a visit. Getting an alpine start of 11:30am, Kona and I followed a decent track up into the small bowl below Uneva Peak that provides very mellow and low-consequence backcountry skiing even during high avalanche periods.

Uneva Peak (at far right) with its false summit in the center of the picture as seen en route to Point 12,363'

Uneva Peak (at far right) with its false summit in the center of the picture as seen en route to Point 12,363′

We had never been up on the summit of Point 12,363'

We had never been up on the summit of Point 12,363′

Looking over at Sneva from Point 12,363'

Looking over at Sneva from Point 12,363′

30 minutes later we were on Sneva (12,242') having descended maybe 400' to Uneva Pass and up another 400'

30 minutes later we were on Sneva (12,242′) having descended maybe 400′ to Uneva Pass and up another 400′

Looking east to Frisco and Lake Dillon from Sneva's summit

Looking east to Frisco and Lake Dillon from Sneva’s summit

Red Diamond Ridge as seen from Sneva's summit

Red Diamond Ridge as seen from Sneva’s summit

Looking at Uneva Peak from Sneva's summit. I asked Kona if she wanted to go summit Uneva again for the nth time. She said she wanted to as it was such a nice day :)

Looking at Uneva Peak from Sneva’s summit. I asked Kona if she wanted to go summit Uneva again for the nth time. She said she wanted to as it was such a nice day 🙂

Back on Point 12,363'

Back on Point 12,363′

Kona and Uneva's final pitch to its summit

Kona and Uneva’s final pitch to its summit

Uneva Peak summit (12,522'). Always good to be on this little summit. One of the very few times I can remember essentially no wind

Uneva Peak summit (12,522′). Always good to be on this little summit. One of the very few times I can remember essentially no wind

And, Sneva from the summit of Uneva with the Tenmile Range behind

And, Sneva from the summit of Uneva with the Tenmile Range behind

With that little 5 hour outing up high in the snow, I am a little more excited for the winter months. However, I still want to do more climbing in the desert and get this elbow all better.

A map of our snowshoe jaunt. About 5 hours roundtrip, maybe 8-9 mile and roughly 3,000' vertical gain

A map of our snowshoe jaunt. About 5 hours and 8-9 miles roundtrip with roughly 3,000′ vertical gain

The Davis Face: Carter Classic

The Oelbergers came to town and offered to care for Sawyer for a whole day and even a night so Kristine and I could get away together. This is always so very nice of them and is so much appreciated. We took them up on their offer though we only made it a daytrip. I just think we hated to leave Sawyer and the dogs overnight when we really didn’t have a specific destination that required us to overnight. So, we all had breakfast together, played and fed the dogs, and jetted out of Edwards for Buena Vista around 8:45am this past Saturday morning. We were intent on climbing the awesome 6 pitch moderate traditional rock climb called the Carter Classic on the Davis Face. I climbed this Carter Classic route almost 3 years ago to the day and it was one of my favorite multi-pitch rock climbs I had done. It even has an alpine-like feel to it since its all climbing above 10,000′. And, the views looking west from the face at the snow-covered Sawatch 14ers is just amazing. I just knew I had to go back with Kristine as I thought she would really enjoy it. The crux of the climb is low on the 2nd pitch and involves surmounting a roof and goes at 5.9. The majority of the rest of the pitches are a bit easier than 5.9 ranging from 5.6-5.8+ with an exposed no-pro friction traverse rated at 5.4 on pitch 5.

The Carter Classic route up the Davis Face. What a wonderful multi-pitch trad route in a spectacular setting

The Carter Classic route up the Davis Face. What a wonderful multi-pitch trad route in a spectacular setting

We parked and made the 30 minute steep uphill hike to the base of the Davis Face and got on the rock before noon. It was such a beautiful day and the rock heated up quite nice throughout the day because of the southwesterly sun even though the air temperature never got above 55 degrees.

Kristine following up the long 120' pitch 1 rated at 5.6

Kristine following up the long 120′ pitch 1 rated at 5.6

Pitch 1 belay

Pitch 1 belay

I have to admit though that the 5.9 crux “roof” move on pitch 2 is tough (for 5.9). Especially leading it with a backpack on with our tagline and jackets and water in it and my heavy camera binered to my harness. However, it was a good challenge and I led it clean and belayed Kristine from the awkward pitch 2 belay. Kristine climbed this pitch so smoothly that I think she surprised herself. She did so very well and was up to me at the belay in no time.

Kristine through the crux 5.9 "roof" on pitch 2

Kristine through the crux 5.9 “roof” on pitch 2

Kristine switching cracks and having a great time on pitch 2

Kristine switching cracks and having a great time on pitch 2

Pitch 3 is a short but nice 5.8 chimney and allows for some action shots of the follower:

Kristine climbing the 5.8 pitch 3

Kristine climbing the 5.8 pitch 3

All smiles

All smiles

Climbers on the 5.10a sport route called D4 to the south of the Carter Classic

Climbers on the 5.10a sport route called D4 to the south of the Carter Classic

Kristine almost to the pitch 3 belay

Kristine almost to the pitch 3 belay

Pitch 3 belay

Pitch 3 belay

Climbers have dubbed the short 5.8+ pitch 4 as the “mental” crux of the route. I guess because you are high off the deck and its a bit runout (like 8-10′ between placements) when leading the pitch. However, I was able to lead the pitch clean and then Kristine followed with no issues at all. The pitch 4 belay is a decent little ledge, but is fairly airy.

Kristine finishing up the 5.8+ pitch 4

Kristine finishing up the 5.8+ pitch 4

Pitch 4 belay

Pitch 4 belay

Pitch 5 has a 5.4 no-pro “friction” traverse to begin, which leads over to a fun 5.7 dihedral. The traverse is a bit “airy” and I seemed to not find any good crimper holds for my fingers to get to the ledge. I just sort of went for it and fortunately didn’t blow the small leap move. Kristine did this much better than I and just seemed to cruise it with no hesitation.

Kristine getting into the 5.7 dihedral of pitch 5

Kristine getting into the 5.7 dihedral of pitch 5

Fun climbing

Fun climbing

Stemming

Stemming…

...and sticking!

…and sticking!

Pitch 5 belay

Pitch 5 belay

Pitch 6 is long but really no move over 5.8 and I belayed Kristine up from the nice two bolt anchor at the top of the face. I believe we topped out around 3:30pm or so and it was still fairly sunny though a bit breezy.

Looking down at Kristine at the Pitch 5 belay from near the top of Pitch 6

Looking down at Kristine at the Pitch 5 belay from near the top of Pitch 6

Kristine at the top of the Carter Classic route on the Davis Face

Kristine at the top of the Carter Classic route on the Davis Face

Great to be out together

Great to be out together

We busted out my new 7mm/60m tagline we had been carrying up in the backpack the entire route and I was curious to test this guy out. Its a much lighter option than bringing an a second full-diameter rope, but we weren’t overly impressed with it. With the tagline rope method, you rappel off your single full-diameter climbing rope as opposed to both full-diameter climbing ropes. I think I just don’t like the fact of the possibility of the knot pulling through the rappel bolts (though very unlikely) and then there is no way to pull the knot back through to get the ropes down. I think keeping a tagline on alpine routes that could potentially require a double rope rappel in case of retreat is a good idea, but for more multi-pitch routes that require multiple double rope rappels, I think we’ll stick with two full-diameter ropes. Enough about rappel methods. Everything went smoothly and in three double rope rappels we were back on the ground at the base of the route.

Looking south along the face

Looking south along the face

Me almost to the ground on the last double rope rap

Me almost to the ground on the last double rope rap

We were back in Buena Vista having dinner at one of our favorite little Mexican restaurants, Casa del Sol, by 6pm and then back home by 8:45pm. What a great time out together doing what initially brought us together in a gorgeous setting. An enormous thanks to Ken & Dianne for shouldering our responsibilities for a day so we could get out together – just us.

Until next time, Davis Face

Until next time, Davis Face

Crack Cragging in the High Desert

I always enjoy driving a few hours west of the Vail Valley to the high desert to crack climb. Its one of my favorite trips to do. No need to drive to Moab or Indian Creek or even into Utah for that matter. 2 hours and you can be in Colorado National Monument and then just shy of 3 hours you can be in Escalante Canyon. Mikey, J, and I did a daytrip to Colorado National Monument, specifically Tiara Rado, to hone our crack climbing skills in preparation for a few days in Indian Creek, Utah the following weekend. This was my 4th time at Tiara Rado, and while I wouldn’t recommend it for beginners (its easiest route is a tough 70′ cupped hands crack that goes at 5.9+), it is a great place in a nice setting and even gives you a 45 minute hike each way to/from the car.

Mikey leading Short Cupped Hands (5.9+)

Mikey leading Short Cupped Hands (5.9+)

Mikey placing gear

Mikey placing gear

Short Cupped Hands is a short route but full of excitement

Short Cupped Hands is a short route but full of excitement

Me leading 100' Hands (5.10b) on a gorgeous sunny day

Me leading 100′ Hands (5.10b) on a gorgeous sunny day

100' Hands

100′ Hands

Me getting higher. This is a sustained 100' 5.10 crack

Me getting higher. This is a sustained 100′ 5.10 crack

Me nearing the anchors - thank goodness!

Me nearing the anchors – thank goodness!

J then top-roped 100' Hands to get the feel for it

J then top-roped 100′ Hands to get the feel for it

Mikey on lead on 100' Hands

Mikey on lead on 100′ Hands

Mikey

Mikey

Looking up

Looking up

Mikey spotted this Rocky Mountain Bighorn from halfway up 100' Hands

Mikey spotted this Rocky Mountain Bighorn from halfway up 100′ Hands

Mikey's strength left him about halfway up 100' Hands and so J finished it off

Mikey’s strength left him about halfway up 100′ Hands and so J finished it off

J nearing the anchors on the wider section. What a great route

J nearing the anchors on the wider section. What a great route

Rainier, Kona, J, & myself were planning to head down to Indian Creek the next weekend since Sawyer & Kristine were heading to Dune Acres, Indiana on Lake Michigan for a girl’s weekend with all the Bates gals and their baby gals. However, the forecast was for a wet and dreary weekend in Utah, so that plan was called off. Fortunately, the Chalk ladies had wonderfully sunny weather on the shores of Lake Michigan. Sawyer just loved playing in the sand.

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I kept checking the weather forecast for another of my favorite spots which was about half the driving distance as Indian Creek from Edwards. The weather forecast for Escalante Canyon, CO looked favorable with possible rain starting Saturday evening. Good enough! The dogs, J, Tamra, Trevor, & Chelsey all packed up and headed west in my car and Tamra’s car for some car camping and cragging. While its fun to try and climb multi-pitch routes, its much more important to me these days to spend as much time as possible with Rainier and have her with me at all times since she is getting up there in age at almost 13 years old. She gave us a scare last week with a mass on her spleen, but fortunately the tests confirmed it being non-cancerous. We have to figure out now if its worth removing or if she can live with it as long as it doesn’t get any larger. Doing single pitch routes at crags is a lot of fun and means I can have the dogs with me as well. I believe you actually get more climbing in doing single pitch cragging than multi-pitch climbs, though it sure is fun topping out on a tower after a few pitches of climbing. My friend Natalie Moran also joined us that morning as she is living close by in Delta going to massage therapy school. She had no idea Escalante was in her backyard and I think was pleasantly surprised. Anyway, we got to the canyon just in time for me to take J over to one of my most favorite crack climbs called Willy’s Hand Jive just before dark. I led it and then we both climbed it twice. He loved it. The next morning Natalie met us about 8am at camp and we all went out and had a great day of climbing. I know there are a lot of climbing photos below, but you should have seen how many I actually took 🙂

Hiking up to Willy's Hand Jive. Photo by Natalie

Hiking up to Willy’s Hand Jive. Photo by Natalie

J on the classic splitter of Willy's (5.10+)

J leading Willy’s Hand Jive (5.10+). Photo by Natalie

I like this one of J leading Willy's

I like this one of J leading Willy’s

Natalie jamming on Willy's

Natalie jamming on Willy’s

Natalie at the pod crux near the top

Natalie at the pod crux near the top

Tamra's first go at a proper crack!

Tamra’s first go at a proper crack!

Tamra

Tamra

J again doing a lap

J again doing a lap

Me leading this 5.9+ route called Rusty's Cave. I'm actually in the cave near the top of the route

Me leading this 5.9+ route called Rusty’s Cave. I’m actually in the cave near the top of the route

Me making the crux off-width move to the anchors on Rusty's Cave

Me making the crux off-width move to the anchors on Rusty’s Cave

Tamra climbing Rusty's Cave

Tamra climbing Rusty’s Cave

Gus & Rainier

Gus & Rainier

Rainier enjoying the desert cloud cover

Rainier enjoying the desert cloud cover

Looking over at Natalie climbing Rusty's Cave from the base of Willy's

Looking over at Natalie climbing Rusty’s Cave from the base of Willy’s

Natalie

Natalie

Desert dogs

Desert dogs

I then led Willy’s Hand Jive clean this time with no rests and set up to take photos of the crew from above. I pulled the rope up to me while J took the other rope and led the route as well.

After a few times in which I've always had to rest on the rope at the crux pod orjust above not able to make the final move, I finally redpointed (no rests) this route and it felt good :)

After a few times in which I’ve always had to rest on the rope at the crux pod when leading Willy’s, I finally redpointed (no rests) this route and it felt good 🙂

J leading Willy's

J leading Willy’s

J jamming with Natalie belaying below

J jamming with Natalie belaying below

J negotiating the crux pod near the top

J negotiating the crux pod near the top. I’d rate the crux pod climbing as 5.0+ or likely 5.11- moves. Its tricky and the slightly overhanging nature adds to the spice

J reaching for the crucial face hold to the pod's left

J reaching for the crucial face hold to the pod’s left

J reaching for the ledge

J reaching for the ledge

Natalie starting up Willy's

Natalie starting up Willy’s

Natalie cleaning the route

Natalie cleaning the route

I like this one. Shows the intensity

I like this one. Shows the intensity

One last lap on Willy's for me

One last lap on Willy’s for me

Then, for the last 2 hours of our afternoon before we headed home, we hiked up to the Interiors Wall and climbed two fairly short routes we knew well.

Hiking to the Interiors Wall. Photo by Natalie

Hiking to the Interiors Wall. Photo by Natalie

Escalante Canyon. Photo by Natalie

Escalante Canyon. Photo by Natalie

Me leading Right of Lieback (5.10a). Photo by Natalie

Me leading Right of Lieback (5.10a). Photo by Natalie

Higher up on Right of Lieback

Higher up on Right of Lieback

Making the mantle to the anchors on Right of Lieback. Photo by Natalie

Making the mantle to the anchors on Right of Lieback. Photo by Natalie

J leading Lieback (5.9). Photo by Natalie

J leading Lieback (5.9). Photo by Natalie

A great 24 hours in Escalante Canyon with a great crew. Hopefully, we can get to Indian Creek later this year for some more crack climbing fun.

New 14er Dog Book

Well, after 7 years in the making and 11 years of climbing 14ers with his golden retriever named Sawyer, Josh Aho of Denver completed his wonderful coffee table-style book chronicling his and Sawyer’s 14er adventures together in an attempt to become the 2nd human/dog duo to climb all of Colorado’s 14ers. They were so close to completing their goal, but Capitol Peak, widely regarded as Colorado’s hardest 14er by its easiest route, eluded them. This book really is a one of a kind book and anyone who loves dogs and hiking mountains should buy this book.

Climbing Colorado's 14ers with Sawyer

Climbing Colorado’s 14ers with Sawyer

Years ago Josh reached out to me inquiring about Rainier’s 14er adventures and climbs with me. He was planning on doing a section of his book dedicated to the history of 14er dogs who had climbed a significant number of them and had done some of the tougher peaks. I was honored that he thought to include her in this section. Rainie was honored too 🙂 Rainie and I have spent a lot of time together exploring the Colorado 14ers (and countless other peaks and areas) and she really was my #1 partner for so many years on these peaks. All said and done she climbed 45 different 14ers (of 54) and probably 150+ total ascents of 14ers with multiple repeats. She has probably logged 25 ascents up Quandary Peak south of Breckenridge not to mention 3 summits of Snowmass Mountain, 2 of Wilson Peak, 2 of Mt. Sneffels, 2 summits of both Challenger Point and Kit Carson Peak, the El Diente to Mt. Wilson traverse, 1 ascent of Pyramid Peak, 1 ascent of Wetterhorn Peak, and 1 of Crestone Peak just to name the highlights.

The History of 14er Dogs section. Can you spot Rainie?

The History of 14er Dogs section. Can you spot Rainie?

Rainie's section

Rainie’s section. Click to enlarge

I cannot imagine the effort and dedication it takes to pull off a book like this and my hat (several hats) are off to Josh on a monumental effort and wonderful success. He initially had 1,000 of these books printed and shipped to his home and I have no doubt he can sell them all. There are so many hiking dog lovers all over Colorado and the country that would love every page of this book. The pictures are outstanding and Josh chronicles each climb with Sawyer and even has a “paw” rating for how dog-friendly the 14er may be.

A typical two page spread for each 14er. This one is dedicated to their climb of Wetterhorn Peak

A typical two page spread for each 14er. This one is dedicated to their climb of Wetterhorn Peak

A few chapters are dedicated to certain climbs that took multiple attempts and extraordinary effort. One such chapter details their climb of Pyramid Peak, likely one of the top 5 hardest 14ers. I haven’t reached this chapter yet in my dissection of this book, but I can’t wait to get there as I have fond memories of Rainier and I climbing this same mountain.

Ascending the Pyramid chapter

Ascending the Pyramid chapter

I have to throw in a few pics of Rainier and I climbing Pyramid back in August of 2009 as this was one of my most favorite days in the mountains. Good friends Caleb & Jennie Wray joined us for this climb. This was my 4th time up Pyramid and I had climbed it just two weeks prior to when Rainie and I climbed it just to make sure I knew the route without hesitation. I was so very proud of Rainie that day. Well, I am always proud of her no matter what. She really stuck by my side (right on my heels) on all of the treacherous 14ers and if there was a move she needed help with she just waited for my help either ascending or descending. That’s what the dog harness was for – to help her in tricky spots,

Starting out with a view of the Maroon Bells. Photo by Caleb Wray

Starting out with a view of the Maroon Bells. Photo by Caleb Wray

Hitting snowline and she has her dog harness ready to go

Hitting snowline and she has her dog harness ready to go

The "Leap of Faith" move

The “leap of faith” move. Photo by Caleb Wray

The class 4 "Green Couloir"

The class 4 “Green Couloir”

Rainie on the summit ridge

Rainie on the summit ridge

Rainie and I on Pyramid's summit

Rainie and I on Pyramid’s summit

...and down we go. Photo by Caleb Wray

…and down we go. Photo by Caleb Wray

Anyway, back to Josh’s book. Weighing in at over 5 lbs, its a beefy book but is packed full of 350+ pages of wonderful photos and stories. As slow a reader as I am, its going to take me a while to read the entire masterpiece, but if you like mountains and dogs, you should order a copy. More details and ordering information can be found on Josh’s website at www.14ercanine.com.

Mom’s Visit & 6th Anniversary Trail Run

Mom came into town to visit us 2 weekends ago (well, really to visit Sawyer) and we all had a great time together. I think we all felt she really bonded with Sawyer and Sawyer really got to know Mom. Mom came to Aspen with us for Joel & Lauren’s wedding and was super babysitter for Sawyer while we partied down at Buttermilk with all of our friends.

Sawyer loves her Rainier

Sawyer loves her Rainier

And, Rainier loves Sawyer

And, Rainier loves Sawyer

Mom reading to Sawyer

Mom reading to Sawyer

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We all took a nice fall hike in Wilder Gulch at the top of Vail Pass one day and rolled over Independence Pass en route to Aspen to enjoy the awesome fall weather.

Wilder Gulch with Ptarmigan Hill behind

Wilder Gulch with Ptarmigan Hill behind

Sawyer loves this backpack

Sawyer loves this backpack

Great to be with Mom

Great to be with Mom

Who needs baby toys? Sticks, leaves, and rocks will do just fine

Who needs baby toys? Sticks, leaves, and rocks will do just fine

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Top of Independence Pass (12,100')

Top of Independence Pass (12,100′)

A bit chilly, but a good time and visit with Mom

A bit chilly, but a good time and visit with Mom

Then, our 6th year wedding anniversary was this past Saturday, October 3. Our good friend Sabrina was more than nice to come over and hang with Sawyer and the dogs while we had a 3 day activity planned. First was a trail run of one of our favorite trails accessible out our front door, the A10 trail, connecting Edwards and Arrowhead. This is a very popular mountain bike ride as you get a long 4 miles descent if biking from Arrowhead to Edwards. While we have both run, hiked, snowshoed this trail countless times, I have never really posted many pics of this fun loop. I believe the loop is about 10 miles Edwards to Arrowhead or vice versa with another 2+ miles on highway 6. I drove the car over to Arrowhead to leave it for us and ran the 2+ miles back home. Sabrina came over and Kristine & I departed up the trail around 11:45am.

An overview of the A10 as seen from Red & White Mountain to the north

An overview of the A10 as seen from Red & White Mountain to the north

A close-up of the descent down into McCoy Guclch and down the Arrowhead ski run

A close-up of the descent down into McCoy Guclch and down the Arrowhead ski run

This is such a great run with the first 4 miles from our house taking you up over 2,200′ vertical gain in about 4 miles to the high point of the trail at 9,425′. The views are outstanding of the Northern Sawatch Range and Lake Creek Valley.

Kristine on the ridgeline in the 4th meadow having done most of the elevation gain

Kristine on the ridgeline in the 4th meadow having done most of the elevation gain

Kristine topping out on the A10 trail

Kristine topping out on the A10 trail

We did pretty well this time around making it to the summit in about 50 minutes

We did pretty well this time around making it to the summit in about 50 minutes

On top!

On top!

Beautiful views looking back into the East Lake Creek Valley

Beautiful views looking back into the East Lake Creek Valley

Heading down to the saddle to get into McCoy Gulch

Heading down to the saddle to get into McCoy Gulch

Next stop: Arrowhead

Next stop: Arrowhead

We arrived at the car about 1 hour and 45 minutes after starting and quickly sped up to the Ritz Carlton Hotel at Bachelor Gulch for our 2nd activity for the day: a hour long couples massage that Kristine had set up! Let’s just say this was much needed and just plain awesome. We enjoyed the outdoor hot tub as well for 20 minutes afterwards.

Outdoor hot tub time at the Ritz

Outdoor hot tub time at the Ritz

Then, to top off our day, we changed, showered, and sped down to the Riverwalk Theater in Edwards to see the new Everest movie together at 4pm. We definitely wanted to see this together and actually really enjoyed it. Most other mountaineering-related Hollywood movies are a a bit far-fetched and unrealistic. However, Everest really seemed to be mostly spot-on with regards to the footage, camps, the story, etc. It is based on the 1996 Everest tragedy portrayed in Jon Krakauer’s book Into Thin Air.  It was much more emotional for us than we thought. I think its a super sad story to begin with and the fact we have some attachment towards that peak, it was really tough and hit home seeing Rob Hall die just below the South Summit and leaving his wife and unborn baby at home in New Zealand. Makes you think about things no doubt. But, we thought it was well done and the footage was super cool. I think they portrayed the mountain’s aspects very well from Kathmandu to the the Khumbu Valley, basecamp life, to the upper camps, and the Hillary Step and summit ridge. Even the box on the summit and the mound of prayer flags on the summit was very realistic.

Everest summit pic we took that morning 6 years ago on May 25

Everest summit pic we took that morning 6 years ago on May 25

We had a phenomenal day together just the two of us as it should be on your anniversary. Thanks so much to Sabrina for watching the 3 other Chalks for most of the day! Love you, Kristine!

A Pair of Cs

Over the years, the initially intimidating Peak C in the Gore Range has become like an old friend. I seem to know it pretty well by now and thus feel comfortable on and around its flanks. Its one of those peaks many folks see from the first time from Piney Lake and let out a “whoa, is this what the Gore Range is about?” Well, in a word “yes”.

Peak C from Piney Lake. Photo by Caleb Wray in September 2011

Peak C from Piney Lake. Photo by Caleb Wray in September 2011

Peak C is special. It has steep snow climbing routes, a solid couloir for a ski descent, scrambling routes, and technical alpine routes. It has it all. Peak C really can be viewed from anywhere in Eagle County, but is especially visible from Vail Mountain with its prominent southwest couloir. The view of its technical north face and northwest ridge from Mt. Powell are always awe-inspiring. Its not easily discernible from other Gore summits to the south.

Rainier and Peak C (center of picture) from the summit of Red & White Mountain one February many years ago

Rainier and Peak C (center of picture) from the summit of Red & White Mountain one February many years ago

Peak C's north face and northwest ridge (right skyline) as seen from Mt. Powell's south slopes after completing the Eagle's Nest to Powell traverse in September 2014

Peak C’s north face and northwest ridge (right skyline) as seen from Mt. Powell’s south slopes after completing the Eagle’s Nest to Powell traverse in September 2014

My first climb up Peak C was via its southwest couloir in November of 2007 with Rainier, Ryan Aldrich, & Mikey Johnson. It was a great snow climb and had some great ridge scrambling including a class 4 headwall right out of the notch between Peak C and Peak C-Prime to start its south ridge.

Me & Rainier on the summit of Peak C on November 3, 2007 with Mt. Powell behind

Me & Rainier on the summit of Peak C on November 3, 2007 with Mt. Powell behind

Me downclimbing the class 4 headwall to the notch below where Mikey & Rainier wait

Me downclimbing the class 4 headwall to the notch below where Mikey & Rainier wait

Fast forward 2 years and Kristine, myself, J, Chris Carlsen, Rainier, & Kona climbed and skied the southwest couloir in May of 2009. Despite being sloppy heavy mashed potatoes in which Rainier set off a wet slide herself and ended up riding it down the couloir into the apron below chasing snow balls (think very slow moving) and an ominous thunderstorm forcing us to speed up our climb and ski descent, it was a great day.

J, Rainier, & Kona approaching the southwest couloir of Peak C in May 2009

J, Rainier, & Kona approaching the southwest couloir of Peak C in May 2009

J beginning the descent down the southwest couloir as a storm engulfed us

J beginning the descent down the southwest couloir as a storm engulfed us

Chris in great form dropping the knee

Chris in great form dropping the knee

Our crew back at Piney Lake

Our crew back at Piney Lake

Again, fast forward 2 more years to September 2011 and you have me, J, and Caleb Wray scrambling the Ripsaw Ridge traverse from Peak C to Peak G. This was the first time I had climbed the southwest couloir without snow and it is a bit tedious and dangerous with rockfall. However, once on the ridge proper, it was a solid day out with those boys.

J and myself climbing the class 4 headwall up Peak C's south ridge. Photo by Caleb Wray

J and myself climbing the class 4 headwall up Peak C’s south ridge. Photo by Caleb Wray

Me on the summit of Peak C before traversing Ripsaw Ridge. Photo by Caleb Wray

Me on the summit of Peak C before traversing Ripsaw Ridge. Photo by Caleb Wray

I had looked at the northwest ridge of Peak C for years wondering if there was a way up it. Then, that wonderment sort of faded away with all of the other adventures we had going on between 2007 and 2014 until my buddy Ryan Marsters and his partner Derek climbed the northwest ridge as an exciting start to their day of traversing Ripsaw Ridge. I remember reading their report and seeing the topo of the route and my interest was piqued once again.

Peak C Northwest Ridge Route courtesy of Ryan & Derek

Peak C northwest ridge route courtesy of Ryan & Derek. Click to enlarge

I thought it would be a great moderate alpine climb for Kristine & myself as it had been awhile since the two of us got out all day together. Fortunately, our friend Sabrina was willing to come over at 5am to start watching Sawyer. That’s the problem with what we like to do and having a baby. Rarely do babysitters like to come over during the wee hours of the morning. It was just so nice of her. Anyway, I had planned this for a week or two thinking the Sunday was going to be this bluebird sunny day of weather per the forecast. Well, it couldn’t have been more wrong. Let’s just say I was a bit frustrated with the weather gods. My good buddy Brian Miller calls NOAA “No Obligation to Anything Accurate”. He couldn’t be more right in that statement. I think its more frustrating for obvious reasons when you really can’t do this stuff together like in the good ole days anytime we please. And, when things don’t go according to plan, the frustration is amplified because you know we can’t just come out again the next day together because of our responsibilities at home.

A friend, John Danese, said this would make a good intro for the movie "Rocky Horror Picture Show at Piney Ranch"

A friend, John Danese, said this would make a good intro for the movie “Rocky Horror Picture Show at Piney Ranch”

Peak C from Piney lake engulfed in clouds at sunrise

Peak C from Piney Lake engulfed in clouds at sunrise

Kristine in Kneeknocker Basin below Peak C (in clouds) and Kneeknocker Pass (above her head in the picture)

Kristine in Kneeknocker Basin below Peak C (in clouds) and Kneeknocker Pass (above her head in the picture)

We got on the Upper Piney Lake trail by 6:30am and were at Kneeknocker Pass (almost 5 miles later and 3,000′ of vertical gain) at 9am. I was hoofing it just to keep up with Kristine. It was a fine pace we had going. Peak C had been engulfed in clouds all morning and the wind was whipping at the pass and it was fairly frigid. Based on the forecast, we really only had a lightweight layer each under our mini-down jackets. This was not nearly enough. We had one pair of gloves between us. We found some boulders at the pass to take shelter from the west wind, which helped a lot. However, we were both still shivering. Kristine was shivering quite a bit and so cold. I felt like when the forecast calls for sun and blue sky this stuff usually burns off. So, we waited for 30 minutes and then traversed south over the small hump to the upper saddle and found the base of the route and the 5.2 chimney pitch, which was fortunately on the eastern (leeward) side of the ridge proper. We still couldn’t see the upper portion of Peak C as it was still engulfed in clouds and the wind was whipping, but we had to give it a go. We broke out our alpine rack, harnesses, helmets, and my 30m/8mm rope and I began my lead up the pitch. After placing two cams at the small 5.2 crux sections, I set up a belay when Kristine called out that I had 5 ft of rope remaining. I then belayed Kristine up.

Kristine climbing the 1st 5.2 pitch on Peak C's Northwest Ridge

Kristine climbing the 1st 5.2 pitch on Peak C’s northwest ridge

She was still shivering uncontrollably and we both think the cold was sapping some of her mental strength and drive not to mention her physical strength. She belayed me up to the ledge another 40′ up placing one cam along the way and I looked around, but decided not to belay her up as we agreed it was time to turn around. Conditions were not good and neither of us wanted Kristine scrambling on 4th class terrain shivering and not being totally focused.  As hard as it was to turn back, it was the right thing to do. I downclimbed back to Kristine, lowered her down from the belay, and then I downclimbed/rappelled back to the base of the route. As defeated as we were for a bit, we soon realized we were lucky to get out together for 9 hours alone and enjoy each other and the Gore Range whether we tagged a summit or not.

Happy us back at Kneeknocker Pass with Peak C's northwest ridge rising behind us

Happy us back at Kneeknocker Pass with Peak C’s northwest ridge rising behind us

Kristine, being the wonderful and loving wife that she is, wanted me to go back for this route. J and I were contemplating going back for Capitol’s northwest buttress the following weekend, but Peak C was fresh in my mind so I convinced J to come with me. Plus, I wanted to check out a route up the north face of Peak C-Prime (the next summit south of Peak C along Ripsaw Ridge). The weather forecast again looked stellar. Fortunately, NOAA got it right this day. Just bluebird skies and sun all day long. Fall weather had certainly arrived. I picked J up at 6am and we were hiking along the Upper Piney Trail by 6:45am. I wish fall weather like last Saturday would last a few months – its the best. We cruised up to Kneeknocker Pass in about 2-1/2 hours as Kristine and I had done 5 days prior. The weather was a complete 180 from what it had been with Kristine the past Sunday. We ran into John & Jennifer Danese of Silverthorne right on top of the pass. We had never met, but had corresponded quite a bit and we both knew each other would be on the trail that day as they were gunning for Mt. Powell. They had inquired with me a year or two ago about “the next big thing to do” with regards to their hiking and mountaineering outside of Colorado. So, I connected them with my great friend Rob Casserley who runs Trek8848 for Everest basecamp treks and trekking peaks and they went with Rob last fall and had the time of their lives summitting both Lobuche East and Island Peak (20,000’+ peaks in the Khumbu Valley). It was great to finally meet them. So, after 30 minutes of chit-chat, J and I traversed south over to the start of the northwest ridge of Peak C and the Daneses went for Mt. Powell.

Profile of the Northwest Ridge up Peak C

Profile of the northwest ridge up Peak C

Most of our climb was in the shade and was quite chilly. Fortunately, there wasn’t a cold stiff wind like there was with Kristine. On the traverse to the start of the route we noticed a good looking Rocky Mountain Goat eyeing us intently as if saying “hey, why are you guys coming onto my mountain?” Little did we know he would follow us the entire climb and over to Peak C-Prime.

Mr. Goat

Mr. Goat

I won’t go into the route description here as Ryan & Derek do an excellent job with that on their climb here. J took the 1st 5.2 pitch, placed a cam, set up an anchor, and belayed me up. Normally, on solid rock, J and I would have no problem free-soloing this pitch, but the loose rock really makes this a scary proposition. The rope and a few pieces of protection are good insurance. Plus, we’re both dads now 🙂

Mr. Goat (take 2) near the base of the route

Mr. Goat (take 2) near the base of the route

We then swapped leads, I placed another cam on a sling and then set up an anchor on a ledge to belay J up to me. We only had a 30m rope, but with a 60m rope, you could do this entire pitch in one fell swoop.

J climbing the 2nd half of the 1st 5.2 pitch

J climbing the 2nd half of the 1st 5.2 pitch

J in action

J in action

We needed to get left into the class 3 gully somehow. We decided to stay roped up and swapped leads again and J took the headwall straight on placing a cam on a sling at the crux. There may be an easier way to get in the gully, but this was a fun little move. J belayed me up and we coiled the rope and climbed the easy gully for a few hundred feet before finding the grass ledge to the left which took us out into this really cool low-angled dihedral below a vertical headwall.

J leading into the gully

J leading into the gully

Maybe a low 5th move here

Maybe a low 5th move here

The low-angled dihedral

The low-angled dihedral

Instead of getting into the corner of the dihedral, we found the solid 4th class slabs just to the corner’s right side super fun. So, we didn’t break out the rope and just cruised these slabs for a hundred or two-hundred feet up to another ledge.

J climbing the 4th class slabs

J climbing the 4th class slabs

Fun scrambling here

Fun scrambling here

J on the slabs. The corner dihedral Ryan & Derek desribe can be seen on the left

J on the slabs. The corner dihedral Ryan & Derek describe can be seen on the left

Me on the slabs. Photo by J

Me on the slabs. Photo by J

At the top of the corner dihedral and slabs was a small little grass basin followed by awesome class 4 block climbing up to the 5.4 crux move at the top of the headwall. This was really fun scrambling on super solid rock. I just loved it. We didn’t feel the need to break out the rope on the 5.4 crux as the rock was super solid. We both topped out and took in the views.

J and the headwall with the 5.4 crux at top

J and the headwall with the 5.4 crux at top

Class 4 block scrambling

Class 4 block scrambling

J making the 5.4 crux move

J making the 5.4 crux move

Me climbing up to the 5.4 crux. Photo by J

Me climbing up to the 5.4 crux. Photo by J

Me in the sun after the 5.4 crux move. Photo by J

Me in the sun after the 5.4 crux move. Photo by J

Looking down the headwall

Looking down the headwall

Me on the Northwest Ridge with Piney Lake in the distance

Me on the Northwest Ridge with Piney Lake in the distance. Photo by J

Mr. Goat (take 3)

Mr. Goat (take 3)

It was then a few hundred feet of class 3 scrambling to the summit of Peak C. I believe we topped out about 11am.

3rd class upper portion of Peak C's northwest ridge

3rd class upper portion of Peak C’s northwest ridge

Peak C summit (13,220')

Peak C summit (13,220′)

Good to be on top of Peak C again

Good to be on top of Peak C again

Zoomed-in shot of John & Jennifer Danese atop Mt. Powell from the summit of Peak C

Zoomed-in shot of John & Jennifer Danese atop Mt. Powell from the summit of Peak C

We relaxed on top for a bit and then started descending Peak C’s south ridge to the notch between Peak C and Peak C-Prime. Peak C-Prime’s awesome north ridge/face was in view the entire descent.

On the Peak C descent. Photo by J

On the Peak C descent. Photo by J

J on Peak C's south ridge with Peak C-Prime behind

J on Peak C’s south ridge with Peak C-Prime behind

We hit the notch after the class 4 downclimb and I spotted a traverse on the ridge’s left (east) side that led to some fun looking north face cracks. After 30′ of class 4 climbing, we entered the center crack and the terrain got steeper.

Class 4 below the north face cracks above on Peak C-Prime

Class 4 below the north face cracks above on Peak C-Prime

J was eyeing the corner dihedral to the right (west) and not the center crack as he thought it looked more fun. He tried an airy move to get to the ledge below the dihedral only to realize he wanted the comfort of a rope. We roped up, he set two cams to protect the funky move, and soon enough he was on the ledge.

J just before the move right to the ledge

J just before the move right to the ledge

Trying without a rope

Trying without a rope

On second thought, I'll take that belay

On second thought, I’ll take that belay

I followed and am certainly glad J asked for a belay. Its a committing move without great feet and sloping handholds, especially in approach shoes. Maybe a 5.8 move. The dihedral above looked fun. But, so did the center crack. Choices choices. I led on up the far western crack/dihedral combo placing a #2 cam in the crack and then a smaller piece on a sling in the dihedral itself on the right. Maybe 5.7 climbing with a few fun hand jams and face features.

Peak C-Prime north face cracks. We climbed the crack right of center

Peak C-Prime north face cracks. We climbed the crack right of center

Our crack

Our crack

Me on lead up this fun little route. Photo by J

Me on lead up this fun little route. Photo by J

I slung a solid boulder and looked down to J only noticing behind him that Mr. Goat was downclimbing the class 4 headwall on Peak C’s south ridge! It was a sight to behold.

Looking down the 5.7 pitch to J on the ledge. Can you spot Mr. Goat?

Looking down the 5.7 pitch to J on the ledge. Can you spot Mr. Goat?

Impressive

A close-up

Impressive to say the least

Impressive to say the least

J cleaning the 5.7 pitch

J cleaning the 5.7 pitch

Once J reached me we stowed the rope and de-harnessed and scrambled easy class 2/3 to the summit of Peak C-Prime.

The remaining easy ramp to C-Prime's summit

The remaining easy ramp to C-Prime’s summit

Peak C-Prime summit (13,100')

Peak C-Prime summit (13,100′)

Our route up the north face/ridge of Peak C-Prime

Our route up the north face/ridge of Peak C-Prime

Mr. Goat had climbed down Peak C’s southwest couloir a few hundred feet and climbed up Peak C-Prime’s normal class 3/4 route to meet up with us. I guess he wanted to hang out with us because he climbed the class 3 slabs up C-Prime’s southeast face to within 20 yards of us.

There he is on the ridge

There he is on the ridge

Mr. Goat on Peak C-Prime with Peak G to the right

Mr. Goat on Peak C-Prime with Peak G to the right and Peak Q at far left above the goat

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J descending Peak C-Prime with the goat back on the ridge. Maybe he went onto Peak D

J descending Peak C-Prime with the goat back on the ridge. Maybe he went onto Peak D

We took the standard descent couloir down from Peak C-Prime, which feeds into Peak C’s southwest couloir.  The descent down the southwest couloir is obviously much better on skis.

J descending Peak C's southwest couloir

J descending Peak C’s southwest couloir

We then traversed northwest on the couloir’s apron to reach a small notch at the top of one of two northern couloirs leading back down into Kneeknocker Basin. It was a quick descent and before we knew it we were back on the Kneeknocker Pass trail. We saw the Daneses descending Kneeknocker Pass and decided to hang and wait for them to walk out together. They had spent an hour on Powell’s summit lounging and just talking in this gorgeous fall weather. It was fun hiking out together trading mountain stories back and forth with each other.

Kneeknocker Basin and Peak C's northwest ridge standing tall

Kneeknocker Basin and Peak C’s northwest ridge standing tall

Taking a break along Piney River with John & Jennifer and soaking the feet

Taking a break along Piney River with John & Jennifer and soaking the feet

We arrived back at the trailhead around 4pm and promptly headed on out back to Vail. A great day out in the northern Gore on some familiar peaks yet up some new routes. Just perfect. I told Kristine now that I know the details of the northwest ridge route up Peak C, she and I will go back for sure. She will totally enjoy it as we found it to be a very moderate and fun technical alpine route in our favorite range.

Sawyer at 10 months

Kristine & I both cannot believe how big Sawyer is getting and how grown up she is becoming!

Playing at the river with the dogs

Playing at the river with the dogs (maybe 9 months old)

When we were back in Maine over July 4, Dianne Oelberger had a local photographer come and do family portraits and several of these came out really nice. A few of those pics are as follows (Sawyer was about 8 months at this time):

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Diane Family_070915_9435

Mallary & John_070915_0009

Mallary & John_070915_0033

Diane Family_070915_9446

Photos from our weeknight camp up on Red & White Mountain a few weeks ago:

All decked out in her jean overalls

All decked out in her jean overalls

Fun

Fun

Hanging in her camp chair with Rainie

Hanging in her camp chair with Rainie

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Her hair is getting long enough we need to put it up a bit

Hanging out by the fire

Hanging out by the fire

In the big peoples' chairs

In the big peoples’ chairs

Our new big tent

Our new big tent

Getting comfy and biting her lower lip, which she seems to enjoy

Getting comfy and biting her lower lip, which she seems to enjoy

Reading in the tent

Reading in the tent

Dinner

Dinner

Always gorgeous views of the northern Sawatch rising above Arrowhead

Always gorgeous views of the northern Sawatch rising above Arrowhead

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Kona wanted in a picture

Kona wanted in a picture

Back by the fire

Back by the fire

Actually, a good family pic we thought at sunset

Actually, a good family pic we thought at sunset

I like this one a lot

I like this one a lot

And, some more pics of what Sawyer has been doing as of late:

Watching the dogs eat

Watching the dogs eat

She loves to eat and loves to make a mess

She loves to eat and loves to make a mess

Hiking the East Lake Creek trail

Hiking the East Lake Creek trail

Bouldering at the Confluence Boulder at Dowd Junction

Bouldering at the Confluence Boulder at Dowd Junction

Hiking to Beaver Lake

Hiking to Beaver Lake

A good one of mother & daughter

A good one of mother & daughter

She always loves playing tennis ball with Rainie...

She always loves playing tennis ball with Rainie…

...and receiving kisses from Kona

…and receiving kisses from Kona

Red Diamond Ridge

After a little hiatus from Gore ridge traversing (primarily due to two little lovely ladies entering our respective worlds in the past 9 months), J and I finally got back out together and completed another solid ridge run in our favorite range. Honestly, I think my last Gore ridge run was before Sawyer was born on Rockinghorse Ridge with Brian Miller and Dillon Sarnelli, so I was excited to get back out, especially with J. We make a good tandem on these gnarlier ridge runs. We both love the route-finding, the exposed scrambling and alpine climbing feel, and the unknown – well, as unknown as you can realistically get this day and age. I had been corresponding with Stan Wagon on other Gore outings and adventures when I remembered he said he had traversed Red Diamond Ridge on the Red Peak massif and recalled it as one of his favorites and has done it three times since he and Bill Briggs’ likely first traverse of the ridge in 1994. I inquired as to the best approach for Red Diamond from Stan and the other beta I received was that he did use a rope. It was good enough for J and myself. The full Red Diamond Ridge stretches from the East East Red summit (12,885′) west over fairly mellow terrain to East Red (12,945′) and then west again through the “meat and potatoes” of the traverse to the main Red Peak summit (13,189′). I’ve seen Red Diamond up close a few times from Buffalo Mountain’s summit as well as from the north on Rain Peak’s east ridge and indeed it looked to be challenging. Even though the gnarliest section of Red Diamond between East Red and Red Peak is not even three-quarters of a mile, it is chock-full of spiciness.

Red Diamond Ridge on the Red Peak massif as seen from Rain Peak's east ridge in early May 2014

Red Diamond Ridge on the Red Peak massif as seen from Rain Peak’s east ridge in early May 2014. The far left peak is East East Red with What Big Eyes You Have Couloir dropping below its north face and the far right peak is the main Red Peak summit. East Red is the highest bump in the ridge’s center. Click to enlarge

After a not so great few hours of sleep the night before (like very little to none at all), I had trouble getting out of bed at 4:15am. However, I was determined to make this happen as J and I had not gotten out much together in the last while. And, with babies in our lives now, you have to make the most of what you got when you can. I felt sort of haggered most of the day from a lack of sleep, but still thoroughly enjoyed our outing. I mean what’s not to be excited about when adventuring in the Gores, right? I was completely gutted when I realized driving over Vail Pass that I left one of my most precious items in my car when we transferred to J’s car at 5:30am – my big Canon SLR camera. I was kicking myself as its always with me on my adventures. However heavy it is, its always worth carrying for the high resolution pics. Unfortunately on this day, we would be without it and rely on iphone pictures as our documentation. C’est la vie. I still have yet to be a phone picture convert – maybe I never will. I hope not.

We left the standard Buffalo Mountain Trailhead (Ryan Gulch Trailhead) around 6:30am and made good time up to the four-way intersection, stayed straight on the trail, and started descending down another mile to South Willow Creek and the intersection with the Gore Range Trail.  Per Stan’s recommendations, we left any signs of trail at this intersection (until Red Buffalo Pass 6.5 hours later) and continued due north through dense woods and began the off-trail bushwhacking. It actually wasn’t bad bushwhacking at all. Just a nice walk up through the woods albeit steep at that. We pretty much ascended Eat Red’s east ridge proper the entire time at times walking atop the steep southern cliffs above the South Willow Creek drainage all the while staring down Buffalo Mountain’s Silver Couloir.

J on East Red's east ridge looking down into the South Willow Creek drainage with Buffalo Mountain's north shoulder to the left and Deming Mountain in the distance

J on East Red’s east ridge looking down into the South Willow Creek drainage with Buffalo Mountain’s north shoulder to the left and Deming Mountain in the distance

We eventually broke through treeline and were able to view our options. We could have just remained on East Red’s east ridge over a few more bumps and another 1,500′, but we decided to descend a hundred vertical feet or so and cross the Middle Willow Creek basin to gain East East Red’s summit as a first objective. This was a beautiful basin with wildflowers galore. It cannot see much traffic.

Me crossing Middle Willow Creek drainage with East East Red's summit far above at top center. Photo by J

Me crossing Middle Willow Creek drainage with East East Red’s summit far above at top center. Photo by J

Looking down into the Middle Willow Creek drainage with Buffalo Mountain to the left from East East Red's south slopes

Looking down into the Middle Willow Creek drainage with Buffalo Mountain to the left from East East Red’s south slopes

We then made a 1,500′ climb up steep grass to east East Red’s summit topping out about 2 hours and 30 minutes after we began around 9am. I felt like we were making pretty good time. I wanted to be home my mid-afternoon so Kristine could go on a bike ride earlier than later in the day, but it turned out it needed to be an evening ride due to my lateness and ability to never seem to realize that things, especially traverses, take longer than they look like they will on a map 🙂 Very sorry about that, babe.

View of the Silverthorne massif as seen from the East East Red summit (12,885')

View of the Silverthorne massif (center), Snow Peak (left), and Rain Peak (right) as seen from the East East Red summit (12,885′)

J down to the left and Red Diamond Ridge stretched out in front of us from East East Red's summit

J down to the left and Red Diamond Ridge stretched out in front of us from East East Red’s summit

Nevertheless, it was a gorgeous morning and we made our way over the mellow bumps for approximately 3/4 of a mile to East Red’s summit arriving around 9:30am.

Easy cruising between East East Red and East Red. Photo by J

Easy cruising between East East Red and East Red. Photo by J

There were log poles sticking up from every little point along this section of ridge

There were log poles sticking up from every little point along this section of ridge. Photo by J

East Red summit (12,945')

East Red summit (12,945′)

Looking at the "meat and potatoes" of Red Diamond Ridge from East Red's summit over to Red Peak

Looking at the “meat and potatoes” of Red Diamond Ridge from East Red’s summit over to Red Peak

We didn’t stay long on East Red’s summit as we knew we had the bulk of the day ahead of us. Some minor class 3 scrambling led us down and up to the top of a large tower and a cliff edge. This was not downclimable at all. We could have rappelled and saw a few large solid blocks in which to anchor too, but we didn’t feel the need. We backtracked a hundred feet and found a class 4 downclimb to the south to reach the tower’s western base.

Initial scrambling. Photo by J

Initial scrambling. Photo by J

J at the top of the tower with Red Diamond Ridge laid out in front of us

J at the top of the tower with Red Diamond Ridge laid out in front of us

J on the class 4 downclimb on the tower's south side

J on the class 4 downclimb on the tower’s south side

J making a few airy moves to get back on the ridge proper from the ledge on the tower's south side

J making a few airy moves to get back on the ridge proper from the ledge on the tower’s south side

Looking east at the tower from below and our downclimb

Looking east at the tower from below and our downclimb shown in red. Click to enlarge

A relatively walkable section ensued until we came to some knife blade looking spires which were mighty enticing to try and climb, but for time’s sake and the fact that they looked extremely unstable as well as not gaining us anything (vertical-wise) because we needed to drop down anyway, we skirted just below them to the ridge’s north side on some class 3/4 rock.

J staring down these spires

J staring down these spires

Our approximate route just to the north of the spires

Our approximate route just to the north of the spires as seen from across the low point saddle of the traverse. Click to enlarge

It was then maybe two hundred feet of class 3/4 downclimbing to the low point saddle between East Red and Red Peak.

Me starting the descent down to the low point saddle of the traverse

Me starting the descent down to the low point saddle of the traverse. Photo by J

J almost to the low point of the traverse with the class 3/4 headwall that we downclimbed behind

J almost to the low point of the traverse with the class 3/4 headwall that we downclimbed behind

Me at the shady saddle. Photo by J

Me at the shady saddle. Photo by J

We then discussed our options as the direct route west of the low point looked to be extremely hard trad climbing and we only had a light alpine rack. Nevertheless, we spotted a steep gully feature about 10′ down to the saddle’s north that provided a weakness – the only weakness it seemed. To avoid a large boulder in the gully, which completely blocked upward progress, we strayed to the right and climbing a hundred feet of exposed 4th class/low 5th up a dihedral back to the ridge proper.

Me climbing the dihedral. Photo by J

Me climbing the dihedral. Photo by J

Looking down the dihedral and J on a ledge

Looking down the dihedral and J on a ledge

After a restful grass ledge, we glanced up at our next objective. A large 5th class looking tower with serious exposure on all sides. We searched for a viable route and I found a good looking 50′ dihedral on the tower’s northeast side in the shade. We scrambled to a very small ledge and roped up. The dihedral was probably no more than 5.4-5.5, but the exposure was very serious – thus the rope and rack. J and I were asking ourselves if we were getting a bit “conservative” in our old age, but then realized that we weren’t at all. I don’t believe we would have ever thought of free soling that especially not knowing if the holds were secure. I mean we’re family men now! A few good placements and we were up on the tower’s summit.

Me leading the 5.4-5.5 dihedral halfway through the traverse

Me leading the 5.4-5.5 dihedral halfway through the traverse. Photo by J

What came next looked to be simple enough until we realized the downward sloping nature of the ramp with very little holds on rock laden with lichen and big time exposure and drop offs on either side. Yes, we wanted the rope again. J belayed me from the tower’s summit and I placed a cam halfway down, set up an anchor where suitable at the end of the ramp, and brought J down to me.

J coming down the sloping ramp. There were some very awkward moves in here including a butt scoot with horrible holds

J coming down the sloping ramp. There were some very awkward moves in here including a butt scoot with horrible holds

We then downclimbed some class 4 rock to a small notch and made our way up to some nice grass ledges once again. What followed was a westward traverse over class 3/4 rock on the ridge’s north side as going to the ridge proper would not have gained us anything (vertical-wise). Plus, again, the ridge proper looked completely unstable with teetering blocks. This westward traverse on the ridge’s north side eventually led us down to another small saddle.

J coming out of the notch with the end of the downward sloping ramp behind

J coming out of the notch with the end of the downward sloping ramp behind him

The class 3/4 westward traverse

The class 3/4 westward traverse

J making headway

J making headway

The large headwall in front of us had a leftward-trending steep grass ramp that we took hoping it would lead somewhere. The ramp was downclimbale if we got completely stuck, but easier ground above it gave way to some exposed but doable low 5th class climbing on the ridge’s north side to the summit of this headwall tower.

The large headwall with the leftward-trending grass ramp we climbed

The large headwall with the leftward-trending grass ramp we climbed

Me on the ramp. Photo by J

Me on the ramp. Photo by J

J and the exposed north side of this large headwall tower

J and the exposed north side of this large headwall tower

From this point on the ridge proper, delightful class 3/4 scrambling continued pretty much the rest of the way up to the summit ridge plateau of Red Peak. There were many lines to choose from, but in general we stayed on the ridge crest or slightly on the north side.

J on the class 3/4 scrambling that ensued

J on the class 3/4 scrambling that ensued

Sort of a "Where's Waldo?" picture. Can you spot me? Photo by J

Sort of a “Where’s Waldo?” picture. Can you spot me? Photo by J

We were both saying to each other at this point that we felt pretty beat and just plain exhausted. We both believed we were a bit more tense (mentally) on this traverse than others. Obviously, being tense leads to expending extra energy. I chock it up to being just out of scrambling practice. It had been awhile. Nevertheless, we topped out on Red Peak’s summit ridge and traversed a few more ups and down before cresting the main Red Peak summit.

J and Red Diamond Ridge behind

J and Red Diamond Ridge behind

Red Peak summit (13,189') comes into view

Red Peak summit (13,189′) comes into view

A bit more scrambling

A bit more scrambling

Red Peak summit (13,189'). Our second summit of this peak. The first time was when we traversed the Zodiac Spires 2 years prior

Red Peak summit (13,189′) with the complete Red Diamond Ridge behind us. Our second summit of this peak. The first time was when we traversed the Zodiac Spires 2 years prior

It was a fine summit. However, it was a bit breezy and thus chilly. We had our sandwiches and some Gatorade and water and then continued west to descend the south ridge down to the beautiful Red Buffalo Pass where we took a much needed rest.

Descending Red Peak's south ridge to Red Buffalo Pass (left) with Deming Mountain and West Deming in the distance

Descending Red Peak’s south ridge to Red Buffalo Pass (left) with Deming Mountain (center) and West Deming (right) in the distance

It was such a gorgeous day and there wasn’t hardly a chance of any storms on the horizon. At this point, I got a text from good buddy Dillon Sarnelli who was on the Tenmile Traverse just on the other side of Buffalo Mountain and I70. What a day to do that traverse as well. Congrats to Dillon and Zambo. I had much more energy now and we cruised out the Gore Range Trail into the South Willow Creek drainage.

Red Diamond Ridge as seen from the meadows  east of Red Buffalo Pass

Red Diamond Ridge as seen from the meadows east of Red Buffalo Pass

It was a beautiful deproach until we made the right turn onto the South Willow Creek trail split (where we had left the confines of any trail 6.5 hours earlier) and started the few hundred feet of vertical gain back up to the four-way intersection. We just decided to book it and broke a good sweat and cruised back to J’s Volvo arriving at around 3:30pm for a 9 hour day.

I have no idea on the roudtrip mileage and vertical. Its probably somewhere in the 12-13 mile day with maybe 4,500′-5,000′ of vertical gain with all of the ups and downs, but who knows. I really don’t keep track all that much anymore. Its not what’s important. What’s important is that J and I got out again together in our favorite range and tackled a ridge we had long wanted to do and did it safely. We still felt like we were the only ones out there all day despite the few parties we encountered closer down in the valley on the Gore Range Trail and Buffalo Mountain Trail. Its special to us that we can still feel that sense of solitude. It may not always be the case. The mountains are indeed getting crowded. But, hopefully the Gore will continue to inspire and challenge those that seek adventure, relative solitude, lofty summits, and gnarly ridges. Many thanks to Stan for pioneering this ridge 2 decades ago. We both agreed it is one of the finest of Gore ridge traverses.

Our Red Peak massif loop shown in red

Our Red Peak massif loop via Red Diamond Ridge shown in red

BGCE Holy Cross Climb

Despite being the 14er in our backyard, I hadn’t climbed Mt. of the Holy Cross since the  July 4 weekend of 2004. That weekend was an awesome steep snow climb up the Angelica Couloir on the north face of Holy Cross with Billy Larson, Matt Davidson, and Rainier. We descended down the standard north ridge route and back to our camp down in the East Cross Creek valley. Before this holiday weekend in 2004, the first time I had climbed Holy Cross was a daytrip way back in the summer of 1997 with good friends Chris Zarek and Andrew Norelli on one of our typical half-summer road trips to climb peaks and be college kids.

Rainier & I climbing the Angelica Couloir. I think I should start wearing Patagonia Baggies shorts over long johns again. Photo by Matt Davidson

Rainier & I climbing the Angelica Couloir in 2004 on July 4 weekend. I think I should start wearing Patagonia Baggies shorts over long johns again. Photo by Matt Davidson

Billy, me, & Rainier on the summit of Holy Cross (14,005') in early July 2004

Billy, me, & Rainier on the summit of Holy Cross (14,005′) in early July 2004. Photo by Matt Davidson

Our engineering firm, Beaudin Ganze Consulting Engineers (BGCE), tries to participate in the Griffith Centers for Children sponsored 14er climb every year we can. Griffith Centers is a great organization that helps troubled children and their families. BGCE missed out on last year for various reasons, but now with Dan Koelliker at our helm he was determined not to miss another year. I organized this event for 8 of the 12 years I have been with the firm and so Dan and I agreed I should do it again. Not wanting to drive very far and knowing there were several new employees to the Vail Valley who had not climbed the local 14er, I chose Holy Cross. We had never done Holy Cross as a firm for this event before and probably for good reason. Its one of the bigger dayhikes of any of the 14ers. At 12 miles and 5,625′ of vertical gain roundtrip, its nothing to sneeze at. The Griffith Centers has great polypro shirts made for us every year in exchange for our donation and we all try and wear them on the climb and end up wearing them for years afterwards as they are great shirts.

We had a great crew from our Avon office making the climb and all made it up to a campsite at the Halfmoon Campground last Friday evening. It was such a fun evening of camaraderie and games (Hammer Schlogger). In fact, when Kona and I racked out in the back of my truck at 11pm, Billy said he was going to be back, but never showed. He, Dylan, and Trevor partied all night long and kept the fire going. Good thing too because I love having a warm fire to wake up to at 3am to send us on our way. Trevor is the best basecamp manager ever. And, Dylan is a heck of an intern. Too bad he has to go back for his senior year at Penn State. Holy Cross would be Dylan’s 1st 14er as it would be for Sam Gale and Kelsey McGrew. Also, Kona had never been up Holy Cross. A new 14er for her as well.

Some of our crew at our campsite

Some of our crew at our campsite

Playing Hammer Schlogger round the fire

Playing Hammer Schlogger round the fire

This is a fun game

This is a fun game

Just some nails, a wood block, and a hammer - that is all that is required

Just some nails, a wood block, and a hammer – that is all that is required

Up at 3am for coffee and oatmeal, we all geared up. Dan showed up just shy of 4am all bright eyed and ready to go. We finally got on the road/trail by 4:30am. Not too bad for a party of eleven and two dogs. It was  gorgeous morning and the sunrise to the east was brilliant. Chelsey decided to hang at Halfmoon Pass and watch the sunrise and leisurely stroll back to camp where Trevor was undoubtedly sleeping in.

Sunrise over the Gore: Zodiac Ridge front and center

Sunrise over the Gore: Zodiac Ridge front and center

Gorgeous light over the Gore from Halfmoon Pass. Photo by Shawn Wright

Gorgeous light over the northern Gore Range from Halfmoon Pass. Photo by Shawn Wright

Moon over Notch Mountain. Photo by Shawn Wright

Moon over Notch Mountain. Photo by Shawn Wright

First light on Holy Cross descending to East Cross Creek from Halfmoon Pass

First light on Holy Cross while descending to East Cross Creek from Halfmoon Pass

Mt. Jackson

Mt. Jackson

Dan and I (and Kona, of course), along with Tim, Brent, and Billy booked it down 1,000′ to East Cross Creek and folks grabbed a drink. I wanted to reach the others who were further ahead. Dan and I boogied up the lower section of the north ridge where the trail is so well-defined and a very nice trail at that. Much different than I remember 11 years ago where the trail was pretty faint. We caught up to Sam, Dylan, Billy, and Britta. Dylan then decided to hike with me at a brisk pace up the great north ridge trail to catch Shawn, Kelsey, & K9 companion Fitzy. Of course Dylan was right on my tail the whole time. He is a beast and a great athlete. He has also tried out as the kicker for Penn State’s football team and regularly kicks 60 yard field goals. Not bad at all. We reached Shawn, Kelsey, & Fitzy at about 13,000′ and all hiked together from then on to the summit.

The Gore Range and Notch Mountain from Holy Cross' north ridge

Looking north to the Gore Range from Holy Cross’ north ridge

Shawn & Dylan with Holy Cross' summit behind

Shawn & Dylan with Holy Cross’ summit behind

Dylan with Notch Mountain behind

Dylan with Notch Mountain behind

Fitzy with the summit of Holy Cross behind

Fitzy with the summit of Holy Cross behind

A few hundred feet below the summit, we peered down the ole Angelica Couloir. It would be a nice ski someday.

Looking down the Angelica Couloir

Looking down the Angelica Couloir

Arriving on the perfectly windless Holy Cross summit around 8:15am, we dropped our packs and soaked in the views every which way. I forgot just how amazing the views are from this perch. Its the only peak rising above 14,000′ for a long distance in every direction. From the Elks to the south, the Flat Tops to the northwest, the Gores to the northeast, and the TenMile and Sawatch to the east and southeast, the views are unobstructed.

Me taking in the views almost to the summit. Photo by Shawn Wright

Me taking in the views almost to the summit. Photo by Shawn Wright

Vail's back bowls and the northern Gore Range

Minturn in the valley, Vail’s Game Creek Bowl, and the northern Gore Range

The southern Gore Range

The southern Gore Range

Looking down the east-facing Cross Couloir over to Notch Mountain

Looking down the east-facing Cross Couloir over to Notch Mountain

Righ to left: The Maroon Bells, Pyramid Peak, and Castle Peak all visible in the Elk Range

Righ to left: The Maroon Bells, Pyramid Peak, and Castle Peak all visible in the Elk Range

Capitol Peak and Snowmass Mountain visible in the Elk Range

Right to left: Mt. Daly, Capitol Peak, and Snowmass Mountain visible in the Elk Range

Kelsey on her 1st 14er summit!

Kelsey on her 1st 14er summit!

Shawn & Fitzy on Holy Cross' summit

Shawn & Fitzy on Holy Cross’ summit

Dan, Sam, Billy, & Britta arrived about 9:20am and Tim followed around 9:30am. Brent had turned around on the north ridge at about 11,800′ just above treeline. Kona and I scampered back down to to just above the Angelica Couloir to make sure I didn’t seen Brent coming up. Who I thought may be him turned out not to be. We then hiked back up to the summit. There were lots of folks on the summit – maybe 30 climbers. Dan had asked one of the trail crews how many people were on the peak today and he estimated maybe 110 people. He said it was typical for a Saturday in the summer. Amazing. A decade ago, I bet that number would be less than 10 people. It was wonderful to see Sam so excited to be up there. It looked as if she had been doing these peaks for years. I broke out our BGCE company banner and we got the requisite group summit shot.

BGCE on the summit of Mt. of the Holy Cross (14,005')

BGCE on the summit of Mt. of the Holy Cross (14,005′)

Me and Kona

Me and Kona

Dan and I on the summit of Holy Cross

Dan and I on the summit of Holy Cross

A cool summit panoramic of Vail's back bowls and the Gore Range by Shawn Wright. Click to enlarge

A cool summit panoramic of Vail’s back bowls and the Gore Range by Shawn Wright. Click to enlarge

Holy Cross summit boulder and USGS summit marker

Holy Cross summit boulder and USGS summit marker

We all left the summit around 10:15am and made our way down the boulders to the north ridge. Shawn, Kelsey, & Fitzy motored ahead to meet his parents as they were leaving the Valley the next morning to head back to Minneapolis.

Sam, me, Dylan, and Kona on the north ridge during the descent. Photo by Dan

Sam, me, Dylan, and Kona on the north ridge during the descent. Photo by Dan

Tim and Britta were together, Dan and Sam stayed together, and Dylan, Kona, & I made our way down the north ridge to East Cross Creek where we tried to wait for the others, but the mosquitos were just too bad. Though, we did refill with water and Kona took a much needed drink and swim to cool off. The three of us motored back up to Halfmoon Pass catching Billy along the way and we made it back to the campsite around 1:45 pm to find Brent, Chelsey, and Trevor sitting around the fire. The remaining folks all arrived by 2:30pm and we sat around for a bit and recapped the day. Kirby Cosmo’s BBQ Bar in Minturn was on tap for a post-hike celebration, so we quickly packed up and headed down the Tigiwon Road. Things worked out really well for our crew up on Holy Cross this day. From the weather, the group, the camaraderie, it was all so very enjoyable. Thanks to everyone for their positive attitude and excitement. Congratulations to all!

Celebrating at Kirby Cosmo's

Celebrating at Kirby Cosmo’s

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