The Davis Face

I believe the first time I had heard of this face was on Ted & Christy Mahon’s blog, Stuck In The Rockies, and it sure looked like alot of fun and a great Fall multi-pitch rock climb based on their climb. My good buddy Jesse Hill knows alot about everything in life including crags and obscure climbing places all over the state and had heard of it as well from a book in his library of climbing books. Even though the weekend was rainy and snowy in most ranges across the state, the town of Buena Vista was showing a stellar sunny and 60 degree forecast for this past Sunday. Even though I was down in Buena Vista the previous weekend, its only an hour and a half drive and it turned out to be well worth it given the climb, friends, weather, and gorgeous surroundings. Chuck & J went down the night before to car camp and hit the Mt. Princeton Hot Springs that morning while Jesse & I met them in the morning at 10am.

I’ll describe the “getting there” part by not describing it – perhaps to maintain some of the seclusive nature of this face. Let’s just say its a long 10 miles on dirt roads to where you can park and hike for 30 minutes uphill to the base of the face. The route we intended on climbing is called The Carter Classic (5.9 trad, 500 ft, grade II) which follows a crack up the center of the face and tops out at a large tree at the top. Its anywhere from 4-6 pitches, depending on what pitches you decide to link. There are a few other routes on this face including a 5.7 sport route as well as a 5.10a trad route which both go up a few pitches. It would be fun to go back to explore these other routes.

The Carter Classic route up The Davis Face

I believe we were at the base of the face around 11:30am and started climbing the long 5.6 Pitch 1 closer to noon. The warm afternoon sun was amazing. Chuck climbed in a t-shirt all day. J & Jesse teamed up as a 2-man rope team as Chuck & I did. Jesse and I decided we were over 3-man rope teams – way too much of a headache and too slow. J led Pitch 1 first and then Chuck started up to get some progress up the wall for our team.

J taking the first lead on the long 5.6 Pitch 1 for the J/Jesse team

I stayed on the ground until Jesse was at the top of Pitch 2 as our teams needed to spread out some to make things more efficient. Pitch 2 begins with the crux of the entire route – a stiff 5.9 roof. Jesse led the roof very well and then cruised on easier 5.8 above to the Pitch 2 belay.

Jesse on the cruxy 5.9 roof on Pitch 2

Jesse pulls the roof to easier ground above the 5.9 roof crux

Once J made it up to the Pitch 2 belay above, Chuck & I swapped leads and I took off up Pitch 2. The roof move was cruxy for sure, but I clipped the hidden fixed piton behind a flake quickly after making the move and got to a good stance. It was a pretty fun sequence of climbing moves despite my right climbing shoe toe which had completely worn thru the rubber a few days back. Made things a bit more interesting to say the least since I couldn’t get any good smeering with that right foot. However, it all worked out – just made me use my fingers and left foot more.

Me starting the lead up the crux 5.9 roof on Pitch 2

At a good rest above the crux 5.9 roof, I smile for Chuck

I then continued to climb and place a few cams up the 5.8 crack before I traversed left to another crack and eventually reached the Pitch 2 belay ledge. Jesse called to me from above saying to just continue on linking Pitches 2 & 3 because Pitch 3 was so short. Though short, Pitch 3 has some awkward 5.8 chimney moves. I soon reached Jesse at the Pitch 3 belay ledge. Jesse was belaying J who was leading the 5.8+ dihedral of Pitch 4 above. I then brought Chuck up to me cleaning my gear along the way.

Chuck climbing the 5.8 chimney on Pitch 3

I then continued to lead up the short 5.8+ dihedral of Pitch 4. I have heard this is the “mental” crux of the route though I am not sure why. It does have some tougher moves but its all there.

Me laying gear on the 5.8+ Pitch 4

Chuck & I then swapped leads for Pitch 5 and Chuck took off to the left on an airy no-pro traverse for 25 feet or so. He then placed a solid cam and continued for 30 feet up a layback 5.7+ dihedral to the Pitch 5 belay ledge where Jesse was belaying J above on the final Pitch 6.

Chuck on the airy no-pro traverse of Pitch 5

Chuck leading the 5.7+ dihedral of Pitch 5

(L to R): Mt. Yale, Mt. Columbia, & Mt. Harvard

Chuck & I swapped leads for the last time and I was off up the final Pitch 6, which is rather lengthy. I tried to do my best with gear placement and slings in order to keep the rope line as straight as possible and minimize rope drag. Jesse & J were already at the summit tree at the top of the route. J had led a line right of the Pitch 5 belay ledge while I led one to the left.  I would think both lines were probably at around 5.7.

Me leading the final Pitch 6 with the summit tree in sight!

I then brought Chuck up to the top of the route after cleaning all of my gear along the way. It was an absolutely stunning day in terms of the weather, the quality of climbing, and in terms of having my buds up on a face together. J & Jesse had located the bolted rappel anchors to the right of the summit tree from which we would begin our first rappel. While I have read you can hike down the backside of the Davis Face, rappelling seemed to be much faster and honestly alot more fun and exciting.

(L to R): J, Jesse, Chuck, & I at the top of The Davis Face via The Carter Classic route

We then made three 60 m double rope rappels down the face. The first was to the Pitch 4 belay ledge. The second was to the Pitch 1 belay ledge. And, then, the final rappel was to the ground.

J beginning the first rappel off the top

On my way down to the crew at the Pitch 4 belay ledge

Chuck beginning the second rappel

J goofing around on the second rappel with a gorgeous backdrop

J & Jesse simul-rappelling down Pitch 1. Chuck & I did the same thing and it was pretty fun & efficient

We all arrived down at the base of the face around 4:45pm, packed up, stowed gear & ropes, and hiked the 30 minutes back to the car. After some enchiladas & chili rellenos at Casa del Sol in Buena Vista, we all said our goodbyes and toasted to yet another wonderful day.

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