The Oelbergers came to town and offered to care for Sawyer for a whole day and even a night so Kristine and I could get away together. This is always so very nice of them and is so much appreciated. We took them up on their offer though we only made it a daytrip. I just think we hated to leave Sawyer and the dogs overnight when we really didn’t have a specific destination that required us to overnight. So, we all had breakfast together, played and fed the dogs, and jetted out of Edwards for Buena Vista around 8:45am this past Saturday morning. We were intent on climbing the awesome 6 pitch moderate traditional rock climb called the Carter Classic on the Davis Face. I climbed this Carter Classic route almost 3 years ago to the day and it was one of my favorite multi-pitch rock climbs I had done. It even has an alpine-like feel to it since its all climbing above 10,000′. And, the views looking west from the face at the snow-covered Sawatch 14ers is just amazing. I just knew I had to go back with Kristine as I thought she would really enjoy it. The crux of the climb is low on the 2nd pitch and involves surmounting a roof and goes at 5.9. The majority of the rest of the pitches are a bit easier than 5.9 ranging from 5.6-5.8+ with an exposed no-pro friction traverse rated at 5.4 on pitch 5.

The Carter Classic route up the Davis Face. What a wonderful multi-pitch trad route in a spectacular setting

We parked and made the 30 minute steep uphill hike to the base of the Davis Face and got on the rock before noon. It was such a beautiful day and the rock heated up quite nice throughout the day because of the southwesterly sun even though the air temperature never got above 55 degrees.

Kristine following up the long 120′ pitch 1 rated at 5.6

Pitch 1 belay

I have to admit though that the 5.9 crux “roof” move on pitch 2 is tough (for 5.9). Especially leading it with a backpack on with our tagline and jackets and water in it and my heavy camera binered to my harness. However, it was a good challenge and I led it clean and belayed Kristine from the awkward pitch 2 belay. Kristine climbed this pitch so smoothly that I think she surprised herself. She did so very well and was up to me at the belay in no time.

Kristine through the crux 5.9 “roof” on pitch 2

Kristine switching cracks and having a great time on pitch 2

Pitch 3 is a short but nice 5.8 chimney and allows for some action shots of the follower:

Kristine climbing the 5.8 pitch 3

All smiles

Climbers on the 5.10a sport route called D4 to the south of the Carter Classic

Kristine almost to the pitch 3 belay

Pitch 3 belay

Climbers have dubbed the short 5.8+ pitch 4 as the “mental” crux of the route. I guess because you are high off the deck and its a bit runout (like 8-10′ between placements) when leading the pitch. However, I was able to lead the pitch clean and then Kristine followed with no issues at all. The pitch 4 belay is a decent little ledge, but is fairly airy.

Kristine finishing up the 5.8+ pitch 4

Pitch 4 belay

Pitch 5 has a 5.4 no-pro “friction” traverse to begin, which leads over to a fun 5.7 dihedral. The traverse is a bit “airy” and I seemed to not find any good crimper holds for my fingers to get to the ledge. I just sort of went for it and fortunately didn’t blow the small leap move. Kristine did this much better than I and just seemed to cruise it with no hesitation.

Kristine getting into the 5.7 dihedral of pitch 5

Fun climbing

Stemming…

…and sticking!

Pitch 5 belay

Pitch 6 is long but really no move over 5.8 and I belayed Kristine up from the nice two bolt anchor at the top of the face. I believe we topped out around 3:30pm or so and it was still fairly sunny though a bit breezy.

Looking down at Kristine at the Pitch 5 belay from near the top of Pitch 6

Kristine at the top of the Carter Classic route on the Davis Face

Great to be out together

We busted out my new 7mm/60m tagline we had been carrying up in the backpack the entire route and I was curious to test this guy out. Its a much lighter option than bringing an a second full-diameter rope, but we weren’t overly impressed with it. With the tagline rope method, you rappel off your single full-diameter climbing rope as opposed to both full-diameter climbing ropes. I think I just don’t like the fact of the possibility of the knot pulling through the rappel bolts (though very unlikely) and then there is no way to pull the knot back through to get the ropes down. I think keeping a tagline on alpine routes that could potentially require a double rope rappel in case of retreat is a good idea, but for more multi-pitch routes that require multiple double rope rappels, I think we’ll stick with two full-diameter ropes. Enough about rappel methods. Everything went smoothly and in three double rope rappels we were back on the ground at the base of the route.

Looking south along the face

Me almost to the ground on the last double rope rap

We were back in Buena Vista having dinner at one of our favorite little Mexican restaurants, Casa del Sol, by 6pm and then back home by 8:45pm. What a great time out together doing what initially brought us together in a gorgeous setting. An enormous thanks to Ken & Dianne for shouldering our responsibilities for a day so we could get out together – just us.

Until next time, Davis Face

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