The Coin Slot & Bald Mountain

The weather forecast this past Saturday was for snow showers and cruddy weather in general which would make any higher alpine pursuit above treeline fairly unpleasant. J and I attended our friends Ben Conners & Brian Miller’s new book presentation in Edwards on Friday night. Their new book, Climbing and Skiing Colorado’s Mountains: 50 Select Ski Descents, is a wonderful addition to any ski mountaineer’s collection of books and knowledge. These two very accomplished ski-mountaineers put forth a lot of effort with this book and it really showed. Its a spectacular book ranging from beginner ski descents like Quandary’s east face to the extreme such as North Maroon Peak’s north face. Plus, Brian gives his expert recommendations on where to eat after each climb and ski descent, which is just about as important as the adventure itself. The next morning Ben, Brian, J, myself, and Rick Thompson all met at the Mt. Royal trailhead in Frisco at 8am to give this nifty little ski line dubbed The Coin Slot a solid attempt. This ski line is at or below treeline in order to avoid any harsher weather and wind on this day and is also north facing so it should hold better snow being not nearly sun-affected as other aspects. The Coin Slot just simply sounds like a fun adventure down the steep north side of Mt. Royal to looker’s right of the 1,500′ rock climb called The Royal Flush, which we have climbed a few times. Additionally, there is a 50 ft rappel into the 45 degree chute, so what’s not to like?!

The Coin Slot as viewed from I-70

The Coin Slot as viewed from I-70

We met Ben & Brian’s friend Elliot Halverson, a very knowledgeable and accomplished ski-mountaineer, who skinned up the Mt. Royal trail with us and showed us where to go for The Coin Slot. Elliot’s crew then went on to ski a supposed new line down Mt. Royal’s north face. The 1,500′ skin went by pretty fast and once we hit the ridge the wind and weather was pretty intense. We quickly donned harnesses and put the skis on the packs and descended steep and loose slopes for a few hundred feet to the rappel point. We unpacked my two 8mm/30m ropes, hitched them together, and slung it through the webbing and rap anchors already in place around the tree.

Me setting up the rappel

Me setting up the rappel. Photo by Ben

Left to right at the rappel point: Rick, J, Ben, & Brian

Left to right at the rappel point: Rick, J, Ben, & Brian

Looking down the rappel

Looking down the rappel

The boys then insisted I go first (probably because we all knew I would be last on the ski down since I am a telemarker and the fact that J, Rick, Ben, and Brian can just plain rip on skis). I made the rappel into the steep chute and set up myself to get my skis on my feet, probably the hardest task for me this day. The boys came down after me (Brian rappelling with his skis on his feet, which was interesting yet efficient) and we all proceeded to ski the steep chute one at a time. J said it was the tightest chute he has ever skied. I would bet so considering at its choke its probably only 6-7 ft wide. Let’s just say I wasn’t making telemark turns in this narrow chute. Anyway, it was a really fun adventure down a steep, narrow line on the north face of Mt. Royal. Enjoy the pics:

Brian on rappel with his skis on his feet

Brian on rappel with his skis on his feet

Everyone in the chute now

Everyone in the chute now

Looking down The Coin Slot to I-70

Looking down The Coin Slot to I-70

Ben (left) and J (right)

Ben (left) and J (right)

Left to right: J, me, & Rick. Photo by Ben

Left to right: J, me, & Rick. Photo by Ben

Brian slashing and spraying his way down the narrow chute

Brian slashing and spraying his way down the narrow chute

Ben's turn

Ben’s turn

Ben's point of view down the narrowest portion. Photo by Ben

Ben’s point of view down the narrowest portion. Photo by Ben

J coming down

J coming down

J doing his jump turns down the narrowest portion of the chute

J doing his jump turns down the narrowest portion of the chute

The remaining portion of the steep chute after the very narrow section. Photo by Ben

The remaining portion of the steep chute after the very narrow section. Photo by Ben

Brian on the descent. Photo by Ben

Brian on the descent. Photo by Ben

J on the lower section

J on the lower section

I was actually really looking forward to skiing the much more open and lower-angled apron, but the conditions were so variable (breakable crust to powder) that it was survival skiing at its worst. We all regrouped at the cars and were going to take another lap down the J-Chute or something similar but the southeast facing snow conditions below treeline were atrocious in that I would rather just hike down than take skis back up. So, we called it a day and went into Frisco and ate lunch at Lost Cajun as recommended in Ben & Brian’s new guidebook. Yum.

The Coin Slot

The Coin Slot

The next day, in much better weather (absolutely bluebird skies and full sun), Kristine and I had a ski tour date up our local 12,136′ peak named Bald Mountain just north of Vail Village. Despite being so close to us and located in our favorite Gore Range, we had yet to climb this peak for one reason or another. While only a 12er, Bald Mountain boasts quite the vertical gain and mileage at around 4,000′ and 10 miles roundtrip. After dropping Rainier off at Sarah & Keith’s house and picking up their dog, Molly, we drove to Vail and essentially parked at the main Vail Village exit. From there we started the ascent of Bald’s long and broad southwest ridge through gorgeous glades and thick trees around 9:30am.

Kristine starting the skin with the Vail Village exit down below

Kristine starting the skin with the Vail Village exit down below

We had to put the skis on our packs for the initial few hundred vertical feet, but then we got to mellower slopes and were able to skin the entire way to Bald’s summit. We quickly noticed that there was a Black Hawk helicopter running all day up in the Spraddle Creek, Middle Creek, and Bald Mountain areas. We also noticed the chopper was dropping folks off on the west ridge of Bald Mountain and pretty soon our fears were realized. We came upon a few search and rescue (SAR) volunteers in the woods and they told us a man from Indiana had been missing since Friday en route to the backcountry Eiseman Hut north of Bald Mountain. We had been to the Eiseman Hut on a few backcountry skiing excursions/hut trips and certainly know how difficult the terrain and locating the hut can be, especially in bad weather. However, when he went missing last Friday, the weather was good and apparently he deliberately separated from his group saying he would meet them at the hut. By the time his friends arrived at the hut, the man was not there. SAR crews had been searching all weekend and still to this day there is no sign of the missing person. Its a tragic situation and it seems that every year someone gets lost en route to/from the Eiseman Hut. I certainly hope the gentleman is found alive.

Kristine skinning thru gladed areas with Vail ski mountain behind

Kristine skinning through gladed areas with Vail ski mountain behind

Bald Mountain still a good distance away

Bald Mountain still a good distance away

Open glades along Bald's broad southwest ridge

Open glades along Bald’s broad southwest ridge

Bald's south face

Bald’s south face

Kristine and I proceeded to have a fantastic day together skinning to the summit of Bald Mountain for outstanding views of Vail ski resort, the northern Sawatch Range, and of course the Gores the entire way up.

Kristine beginning the skin up Bald's west ridge once above treeline

Kristine beginning the skin up Bald’s west ridge once above treeline

Kristine & Kona

Kristine & Kona

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Kristine topping out on a new Gore Range 12er for us

Kristine topping out on a new Gore Range 12er for us

There is nothing better than a PB&J on a summit with very light wind, warm sunshine, gorgeous views, and your terrific wife. The Black Hawk came fairly close to us on the summit searching for the missing hiker.

Kristine & Kona on Bald Mountain's summit with Vail ski resort and the northern Sawatch Range behind

Kristine & Kona on Bald Mountain’s summit with Vail ski resort and the northern Sawatch Range behind

The Black Hawk

The Black Hawk

The Black Hawk with Ripsaw Ridge as the backdrop

The Black Hawk with Ripsaw Ridge as the backdrop

Molly taking the views in

Molly taking in the views

Kona catching some zzzz's on Bald's summit with East & West Partner Peaks behind

Kona catching some zzzz’s on Bald’s summit with East & West Partner Peaks behind

The Chalks on Bald Mountain's summit (12,136') minus a Rainier

The Chalks (minus a Rainier) on Bald Mountain’s summit (12,136′)

Just a gorgeous winter day

Just a gorgeous winter day

Vail ski resort with 14er Mt. of the Holy Cross in the distance as seen from Bald Mountain's summit

Vail ski resort with 14er Mt. of the Holy Cross in the distance as seen from Bald Mountain’s summit

After about 3 hours and 45 minutes up, 30 minutes on the summit, we started the ski down our ascent route.

Kristine and the dogs skiing off Bald's summit

Kristine and the dogs skiing off Bald’s summit

It was tight skiing in the trees and tough to find our skin track at points due to the several skin and ski tracks made by the SAR crews, but we made it back down to the car in about an hour and a half. We did enjoy some enjoyable spring corn turns on low-angled slopes at the bottom of the southwest ridge. Spring is almost here. All in all, it was  a leisurely and very enjoyable 6 hour roundtrip ski tour. I think we’d both highly recommend Bald’s southwest ridge as a fun and mellow ski tour if your willing to do a bit of your own routefinding and navigation. A map of the route is below:

Bald Mountain southwest ridge route

Bald Mountain’s southwest ridge route

Fun in the Sun on Uneva Peak

Uneva Peak is one of our favorite go-to 12,000′ peaks on any kind of day in any kind of season. Its relatively easy access from Vail Pass and moderate slopes make it a nice, safe half-day outing whether just hiking, snowshoeing, or skinning and skiing. While we’ve been up it now too many times to count, I have never posted pics on our adventures up and down the peak. However, I figured I would do so now considering the gorgeous sunny day we had this past Saturday with good friends (W&L fraternity brothers and their spouses) who were visiting us from Colorado Springs, Chicago, and St. Louis. Jamie Buckley and Dave & Sarah Levinson climbed Kilimanjaro with us back in August of 2011. We all arrived at Vail Pass at the early alpine start of 10:45am. Shortly after 11:15am, Kristine and I set off on our skins and skis while the rest of the crew set out on snowshoes and the dogs on their paws.

The crew with 13er Jacque Peak in the distance. Right to left: Jamie, Eileen, Sarah, Dave, & Kristine

The crew with 13er Jacque Peak in the distance. Right to left: Jamie, Eileen, Sarah, Dave, & Kristine

Mellow slopes lead up to the shallow bowl we have dubbed "Uneva Bowl"

Mellow slopes lead up to the shallow bowl we have dubbed “Uneva Bowl”

Moonscape

Moonscape

Uneva Bowl

Uneva Bowl

I have rarely had a sunny, windless day up on Uneva, but this day took the cake. It was absolutely gorgeous. And the shallow bowl and ridgeline leading up to Uneva were completely caked with soft snow to boot. After about 2 1/2 hours in the soft snow, we reached the ridgeline/saddle where we could peer over into Summit County and down to Frisco and Silverthorne. This saddle was the start of the southeast ridge up and over the Point 12,340′ false summit and onto Uneva’s summit.

Rainier and the start of the southeast ridge up to Uneva  Peak's false summit, Point 12,340'

Rainier and the start of the southeast ridge up to Uneva Peak’s false summit, Point 12,340′

Our adopted dog for the day, Molly, with Copper Mountain ski resort and the Tenmile Range behind

Our adopted dog for the day, Molly, with Copper Mountain ski resort and the Tenmile Range behind

Uneva Peak's false summit on the left and true summit on the right as viewed from the ridgeline/saddle

Uneva Peak’s false summit on the left and true summit on the right as viewed from the ridgeline/saddle

Jamie & Eileen Buckley from Chicago

Jamie & Eileen Buckley from Chicago

Dave & Sarah Levinson from St. Louis

Dave & Sarah Levinson from St. Louis

Everyone was doing so well considering 4 of our 5 friends were from close to sea level and had just arrived 2 days prior. Chris Sutton was from Colorado Springs and was doing well as always. Chris had been up here before with me and Rainier, but had never tagged Uneva’s true summit. After we all hung out at the saddle a bit, ate our PB&J sandwiches, and enjoyed the sun and the views, we discussed going on to Uneva’s summit. The sea level folks had done so well all day and we were all happy that they had reached the ridgeline. While Sarah, Dave, Eileen, and Jamie were happy with the day’s efforts and decided to descend, Chris wanted to continue on to the summit as did the Chalks. I continued the rocky skin up the ridge while Kristine left her skis and booted it while Chris snowshoed.

Molly on Point 12,340' with the Gore Range ebhind

Molly on top of Uneva’s fale summit, Point 12,340′, with the Gore Range behind

Kona, Chris, and Kristine approaching Point 12,340'

Kona, Chris, and Kristine approaching Point 12,340′

The saddle between the false summit and Uneva's true summit

The saddle between the false summit and Uneva’s true summit

We reached Uneva’s gorgeous summit about 30 minutes later under a warm sun and calm skies. We stayed up on the summit for a good 30 minutes soaking in the sun and admiring the views of the Gore Range laid out before us to the north.

Rainier lounging on the summit of Uneva Peak (12,522')

Rainier lounging on the summit of Uneva Peak (12,522′)

Kona coming up to the summit with the mighty Gores behind

Kona coming up to the summit with the mighty Gores behind

Looking north to the Silverthorne massif (center), Zodiac View (lower left), Red Peak (far right), and Zodiac Ridge barely visible connecting Red Peak to the Silverthorne massif

Looking north to the southern Gores. The Silverthorne massif (center), Zodiac View (lower left), Red Peak (far right), and Zodiac Ridge connecting Red Peak to the Silverthorne massif are all visible

Molly and east vail, aka Benchmark Peak & Bowl

Molly and the Vail sidecountry terrain called East Vail, aka Benchmark Peak & Bowl

Looking northwest to the central & northern Gores

Looking northwest to the central & northern Gores

Chris on the summit of Uneva Peak

Chris on the summit of Uneva Peak

The Chalks on Uneva's summit

The Chalks on Uneva’s summit

Chris, Kristine, and me

Chris, Kristine, and me

Rainier again did so well. Its getting tougher and tougher for her on these peaks with her now being over 11 years old, but Uneva is definitely still within her limits

Rainier again did so well. Its getting tougher and tougher for her on these peaks with her now being over 11 years old, but Uneva is definitely still within her limits

Kristine and the pups

Kristine and the pups

We then retraced our steps back down to the saddle below Point 12,340′ where Kristine clicked into her skis. I skinned/skied my way down from Uneva’s summit over fairly rocky terrain, but managed to not ding my skis too bad. We then skied out to the mellow Uneva Bowl and descended down 25 degree terrain back to our ascent track.

Chris descending the mellow ridge before dropping into Uneva Bowl

Chris descending the mellow ridge before dropping into Uneva Bowl with the Sawatch range in the distance to the south

Sun, sun, sun

Sun, sun, sun

Kristine making the snow look better than it actually was

Kristine making the snow look better than it actually was

After carrying Rainie a bit in the deep, sloppy powder while I skied, we all reached Vail Pass an hour or so later. It was a fine day out with good friends from afar.

Vail Uphill Race & “The” Copper Mountain

This past Saturday was the annual Vail Uphill Race in honor of our good friend Sylvan Ellefon’s father, Lyndon Ellefson. Its always a great event put on by our friend Ellen Miller who does a stellar job. While we’re not really into the whole racing scene, this is one we try and do every year if we are in town as it honors the Ellefsons and is such a great way to start the day with like-minded outdoorsy folks. The only drawback is the crack of dawn 7am start. I have no problem getting up to climb a mountain, but when it comes to doing an all-out race pushing yourself to your threshold that early in the morning, it gets a bit tougher. However, a few cups of coffee got me wide-eyed and I was ready to go. Unfortunately, Kristine was in Washington, DC visiting her sister and her family and was unable to race this year. My good friend Reid Jennings came up and stayed with me this weekend to do the race for his first time. Over the last few years the Eddie Bauer winter games in Vail has incorporated this race into their games, but because of the World Alpine Ski Championships in 2015, the winter games are being postponed for whatever reason(s). At least the Vail Uphill race is still an annual event spearheaded by Ellen Miller and her wonderful efforts. You can read more about the race course in this post from last year. I still used my Koflach mountaineering boot/Silvretta 404 binding setup like last year as it is a bit lighter than my telemark setup and gives me an extra bit of speed on the uphill. I’m just not willing nor interested in investing in the super lightweight AT race ski setup as the skiers ahead of me in the race were sporting. I’m fine with just pushing myself as hard as I can with what I have. Again, any of these ski setups are considered the “Heavy Metal” category in the Vail Uphill race which is what I entered again. However, in my humble opinion, these lightweight AT ski setups are hardly “heavy metal”. I’d love to see these setups in the backcountry or charging down powder-filled couloirs on the higher peaks. Any reasonable person would never use these race setups for any other reason than racing uphill. But, it is what it is and I just go as fast as I can with my heavier/clunkier setup. All I’m ever doing is racing against myself. Some friends have said to me “why don’t you get a lightweight AT ski race setup and do more ski-mountaineering races”. But, honestly, I’d rather be doing winter mountaineering and real ski-mountaineering adventures in the high peaks with good friends than being a race guru with ski-mountaineering races every other weekend. With all that said, I’m pretty pleased with my result of 45 minutes and 45 seconds to cover the 2.06 miles and 2,475 vertical feet on my ski setup, which was 18 seconds faster than my time last year. I may just enter the “open” category next year and see what I can do there with my trail runners and microspikes – I think I could shave minutes off my time. Reid did very well in the “open” category with a time of 50 minutes and 49 seconds. The results are below:VailDaily (3)An awesome breakfast at Eagle’s Nest ensued full of eggs, bacon, etc. I didn’t quite make the “podium” this time (4th in the ski category), but got some good swag and a bottle of wine. It was a nice way to spend a Saturday morning with friends and familiar faces.

The next day Reid, myself, and good friend Derek Drechsel were targeting a climb up the high 13er Pacific Peak’s west ridge, but the forecast for the winds was not what the doctor ordered, especially since this is an exposed ridge facing west and we would feel the brunt of the 50mph gusts the whole day. I then remembered the intriguing 13er Jacque Peak south of Copper Mountain, which you can see as the large pyramidal peak to the southeast when driving east down Vail Pass. The plus with climbing this peak is that we could climb from the east pretty much the whole time up to about 12,500′ and then hopefully just deal with the ferocious west winds the final 700′ up the northeast ridge. I had read reliable information on a few winter ascents up Copper Creek from Highway 91 to the base of the Blackjack lift on the backside of Copper Mountain, on up into Copper Bowl, and then onto Jacque’s northeast ridge. We parked 4.2 miles south of I-70 & Copper right off Highway 91 at the entrance to the private access road to the Tailings Ponds. It was an enjoyable snowshoe through the woods up into the Copper Creek drainage breaking trail in a good 6-8″ of fresh powder on top of a firmer base. We then found pieces of red and blue tape on trees every so often (put up by Copper ski patrol) to lead the way up to the ski resort boundary and the base of the Blackjack lift. I believe these markers are to help guide folks skiing the sidecountry run from Copper Ski Resort out to Highway 91. After hopping the rope and continuing our snowshoe up the catwalk into Copper Bowl passing the Mountain Chief lift as well, we were greeted by Copper Mountain ski patrol on their way down the snowcat groomed trail from where Copper offers cat-skiing in upper Copper Bowl. Bad news from ski patrol dampened our spirits. They were nice about it and I didn’t feel like arguing, but they said Copper Mountain Ski Resort does not allow uphill access during operating hours and would not allow us to use their cat walk (in-bounds) and then leave the ski area to access Jacque Peak. I was pretty surprised – I had not heard of this before. There was no way we could have stayed off the cat walk, which is on the ski resort boundary, due to the high avalanche slopes coming off Turner Mountain’s north face to the south. They stated that because we used their in-bounds terrain we could not continue uphill and leave the ski resort. They continued to tell us there is high avalanche danger, which of course we knew and therefore planned this safe winter route up the low-angled Copper Bowl to a ridge, but obviously they are just doing as they are told and the common denominator is that the ski resort is afraid of getting sued if we used their terrain and then were caught in an subsequent accident (avalanche or whatever). Self-reliance these days seems to have all gone out the window. And, of course the ski patrol didn’t know us apart from some tourist who had never stepped in the backcountry before. They are just trying to protect their hides. Its unfortunate that the whole ski resort/uphilling issue has come down to this. But its inevitable when people are searching for someone to blame when an accident happens.

The catwalk at the bottom of the Blackjack & Mountain Chief lifts heading up into Copper Bowl with Jacque Peak in the distance

The catwalk at the bottom of the Blackjack & Mountain Chief lifts heading up into Copper Bowl with Jacque Peak in the distance

Jacque Peak's northeast ridge at the head of Copper Bowl. The Copper Mountain snowcat can be seen for cat-skiing in upper Copper Bowl

Jacque Peak’s northeast ridge at the head of Copper Bowl. The Copper Mountain snowcat can be seen for cat-skiing in upper Copper Bowl

Nevertheless, we bid the ski patrol adieu and turned around to go back down the catwalk. Wanting to do a bit more with the day, I suggested to the boys to climb up to the summit of “The” Copper Mountain – the mountain Copper is named for as the ski resort resides on Copper Mountain’s northern slopes. To hopefully get a jump on the Sunday ski traffic, Reid & Derek decided to descend back to the cars and make the drive back to Denver. I decided to head up to Copper Mountain’s summit and ascended the treed slopes to the east of the ski resort boundary through deep powder.

Breaking out of the trees with Copper Mountain's southwest ridge up and to the right

Breaking out of the trees with Copper Mountain’s southwest ridge up and to the right

After 30 minutes I broke out of the trees and then ascended Copper Mountain’s southwest ridge keeping outside of the ski resort the entire time for another 30 minutes to the brutally windy and cold summit at 12,441′. However, the sun was out and the views were nice. This was a vista I had yet to visit and the views of the Tenmile Range to the east and the Gores to the north were all new for me. A skier a hundred feet below me who had apparently hiked up a bit from the top lift to the north gave me a wave and a funny look.

Looking north from Copper Mountain's summit

Looking north from Copper Mountain’s summit

Looking southwest to Jacque Peak from Copper Mountain's summit

Looking southwest to Jacque Peak from Copper Mountain’s summit

The Tenmile Peaks to the east. Left to right: Pacific, Atlantic, Fletcher, and Drift

The Tenmile Peaks to the east. Left to right: Pacific, Atlantic, Fletcher, and Drift

Looking south to Mt. Arkansas and its northwest/north ridge

Looking south to Mt. Arkansas and its northwest/north ridge

Looking south over the Tailings Ponds to the Sawatch Range (Mt. Elbert stands tallest at right in picture)

Looking south over the Tailings Ponds to the Sawatch Range (Mt. Elbert stands tallest at right in picture)

Jacque Peak and its northeast ridge from the summit of Copper Mountain

Jacque Peak and its northeast ridge from the summit of Copper Mountain

Looking north to Buffalo Mountain (far right) and Red Peak (left) in the Gores

Looking north to Buffalo Mountain (far right) and Red Peak (left) in the Gores

Northern Gores a bit socked-in with clouds

Northern Gores a bit socked-in with clouds

I-70 over Vail Pass with Bencmark Peak and East Vail at left and the 12er Bald Mountain above Vail Village at right

I-70 over Vail Pass with Bencmark Peak and East Vail at left and the 12er Bald Mountain above Vail Village at right

Summit picture with Jacque Peak benind

Copper Mountain summit picture with Jacque Peak benind

Here’s a little video just to show how windy it was up on top:

After a good 20 minutes on the summit of Copper Mountain, I retraced my snowshoe tracks all the way back to my truck arriving at 1pm. It was still over a 2,200′ ascent from my truck to the summit and so a pretty good workout and some new terrain for me. Here’s a map showing the Copper Creek route to Jacque Peak (in red) and my route up Copper Mountain (in black):

Map of the Copper Creek drainage route (red) up to Jacque Peak. We actually took the alternative yellow route just to the south of Copper Creek to avoid being in the ditch of teh creek itself. Also, my route up Copper Mountain is shown in black

Map of the Copper Creek drainage route (red) up to Jacque Peak. We actually took the alternative yellow route just to the south of Copper Creek to avoid being in the ditch of the creek itself. Also, my route up Copper Mountain is shown in black

All in all, a nice half-day adventure on the backside of Copper Mountain. In retrospect, I think its best just to try and avoid ski resorts altogether in trying to access other terrain (at least during ski resort operating hours). Speaking of non-operating hours, perhaps we’ll just do a full moon night ascent up the Copper Creek route. Now that sounds like a nice way to spend a full moon evening.

The Spider & Fly

Now I can truly say the Gore Range is my favorite range in Colorado. Its proximity to my home, its ruggedness and remoteness, and lack of people all combine to make this place very special and my favorite. I had been wanting to climb these remote 12ers in the heart of the Gores for some time having always gazed at them from other Gore summits and down the Piney River Valley en route to several ascents of Mt. Powell, Peak C, etc. I had always thought the southeast face up The Fly to its east ridge may make a good climb as well as the double traverse over to The Spider and back to The Fly may make a nice day. I knew there would be some snow, but hopefully the southern facing aspects would be relatively dry. We took a gamble to leave behind the microspikes/crampons and axes and turned out the gamble paid off as we were able to stay on dry rock much of the time. Loving this late Fall weather, Kristine & I backpacked the 4.5 miles into Booth Lake (11,500′) from the Booth TH (8,200′) this past Saturday afternoon. Friends J & Chuck drove to the Eisman Hut and backpacked in from there for a little extra adventure and to meet us at Booth Lake. Kristine & I arrived at the lake to find the place to ourselves at 4:30pm, 3 hrs after leaving the Booth TH. J & Chuck arrived 2 hrs later sharing many adventursome bushwhacking stories.

Our route up the Fly and over to The Spider taken from the southeast on the West Partner Peak/Outpost Peak ridge

Our route up the Fly and over to The Spider taken from the southeast on the West Partner Peak/Outpost Peak ridge

Booth Lake (11,500')

Booth Lake (11,500′)

The Fly rising behind our campfire at dusk

The Fly rising behind our campfire at dusk

After sleeping in a bit and a round of coffee, muffins, & oatmeal, we got going around 9am up to The Fly.

Typical terrain on The Fly's southeast face

Typical terrain on The Fly’s southeast face

While we could have continued up the class 2/3 grass ramps and cliff bands all the way to The Fly’s summit, I had spotted an access gully to reach the east ridge proper for some fun scrambling.

Access gully to The Fly's east ridge

Access gully to The Fly’s east ridge

On The Fly's class 3 east ridge

On The Fly’s class 3 east ridge

Kristine climbing the fun class 3 ridge of The Fly (Upper Piney Lake in the background)

Kristine climbing the fun class 3 ridge of The Fly (Upper Piney Lake in the background)

After about an hour from leaving Booth Lake, we reached The Fly’s summit. Glancing over at The Spider, I was glad to see its southern ridge fairly dry.

The Spider from The Fly's summit

The Spider from The Fly’s summit

The crux would be downclimbing off The Fly’s north ridge keeping in mind how much snow we would encounter on the northern aspect and given that we didn’t bring any spikes or axes. Kristine decided to stay on the summit of The Fly for some R&R while J, Chuck, & I took off down The Fly’s north ridge to The Fly/Spider saddle. We found a mostly dry class 4 chimney on the north ridge proper to downclimb in lieu of traversing steep snow slopes on either side sans spikes/axes. Once to the lowpoint between The Fly & The Spider, we traversed class 3/4 slopes on the ridge’s west side up to The Spider. Several towers could be climbed on the ridge proper and likley go at low-mid 5th class as well.

En route to The Spider with the Spider/Fly ridge lowpoint below

En route to The Spider with the Spider/Fly ridge lowpoint below

The Spider's upper south slopes

The Spider’s upper south slopes

J & Chuck scrambling up to The Spider

J & Chuck scrambling up to The Spider

Chuck topping out on The Spider w/ West Partner Peak behind

Chuck topping out on The Spider w/ West Partner Peak behind

Me on the summit of The Spider w/ Ripsaw Ridge behind

Me on the summit of The Spider w/ Ripsaw Ridge behind

The Fly from The Spider's summit

The Fly from The Spider’s summit

After 10 minutes or so on The Spider’s summit, we started back towards The Fly. The wind was howling but otherwise it was a beautiful day. Once back at the Fly/Spider ridge lowpoint, we glanced up at the class 4 chimney we had downclimbed and headed straight for it mostly trying to stay on dry rock.

Looking up at The Fly's north ridge from the Fly/Spider ridge lowpoint. We descended/ascended the obvious chimney in the center of the picture.

Looking up at The Fly’s north ridge from the Fly/Spider ridge lowpoint. We descended/ascended the obvious chimney in the center of the picture.

The class 4 chimney on The Fly’s north ridge proper provided the best scrambling of the day.

Chuck & J scrambling up The Fly's north ridge

Chuck & J scrambling up The Fly’s north ridge

Chuck & J climbing the class 4 chimney on The Fly's north ridge

Chuck & J climbing the class 4 chimney on The Fly’s north ridge

Almost up to The Fly's summit

Almost up to The Fly’s summit

Back on the summit of The Fly with Booth Lake below

Back on the summit of The Fly with Booth Lake below

Chuck & J had hauled their packs to The Fly’s summit in anticipation of heading down the Fly’s south ridge, down to West Booth Pass, and onto the Eisman Hut. So, the boys took off down the south ridge while Kristine & I headed back down The Fly’s southeast face to Booth Lake. After some PB&Js at camp, we packed up and got back to the Booth TH around 2:30pm. Not a bad morning at all. All in all, another great little Gore trip. These are two great 12ers with some outstanding views and quality scrambling in the heart of the Gores.