I think I remember first going to Moab back in 2004 looking up at these desert towers thinking how spectacular they were yet couldn’t comprehend actually trying to climb them. As I hadn’t been to the Moab area in years, I was definitely looking forward to getting back down there this Fall/Winter to climb one of these towers with my good bud Jesse Hill. I had been doing alot of climbing all summer and was feeling confident at 5.9 trad. Jesse was always like “Just say the word, Brando” and we’d be off to the desert.  If we were going to make a move at the iconic Castleton Tower above Castle Valley, I felt now was the time before we set off for Aconcagua and the winter really set in. I always want be solid at the climbing route grade or just a bit over-prepared as I like to climb the pitches cleanly, i.e. without resting on gear and struggling up. The last thing I want to do is attempt this route under-prepared and having to rest on gear. I just don’t feel very accomplished or good about myself when that happens. I like to give the route its due respect and be solid at the grade for an attempt.  Jesse & I had our sights set on the classic 5.9+ Kor-Ingalls route up Castleton Tower marked as one of the fifty classic climbs of North America in Steck & Roper’s book “Fifty Classic Climbs of North America”. The Kor-Ingalls route was the first route up the 6,656′  tower ascended by Layton Kor and Huntley Ingalls in 1961. This route ascends the huge west facing dihedral on the south side of the tower, so it sees alot of sun in the cooler months, which is always a plus.

Castleton Tower at first light

When our good buddy Steve Cizik sent an email out early in the week saying he had the weekend free for a camp and climb of something, I emailed him back saying Castleton Tower may be on the agenda. He was immediately on board as was our other really good friend J Weingast. Thus, we had a foursome and two teams of two, which would be perfect. Odd numbers are just too complicated and inefficient. Jesse & Steve left Denver friday evening, picked up J & I in the Vail Valley, and we were off to the desert. The forecast was for sunny skies and around 60 degrees, just perfect climbing weather. The drive reminded me of all the countless roadtrips we would all take back in the day around the state to climb these things called 14ers. It was a fun drive. We arrived at the Castleton Tower campground and trailhead around 11pm, hung out for a bit, and then spread our pads & bags out for a sleep out under the full moon.

J, Jesse, & Castleton Tower on the approach

Our alarm was set for 6am in order to be on the trail by 7am and hoping that we would get ahead of any other parties attempting the route. There were numerous other camping parties at the trailhead upon our arrival which had us a bit concerned. However, we were the only ones stirring at 6am, so our concerns were put to rest. We ended up being the only climbers on the Kor-Ingalls route and only one of two parties on the entire tower that day. The other party was a team of two on Castleton’s 5.11b North Face. The nice approach hike took just shy of an hour to the base of Kor-Ingalls. I always like a good approach hike with a heavy pack as its a good warm-up for the climb ahead, in my opinion.

Just gorgeous country & morning light on the approach. I really missed the Moab area and am so glad we made this climb happen

Our destination – the classic Kor-Ingalls route (5.9+) in the obvious dihedral up this 400′ tower

Castleton Tower & The Rectory cast their morning light shadows

The 5.9+ Kor-Ingalls route up Castleton Tower in 4 pitches. The Kor-Ingalls route is listed in Steck & Roper’s “Fifty Classic Climbs of North America”

J & I paired together as team Chalk-Weingast and after racking up J took off leading the very fun 120′ 5.7 Pitch 1. A great 25′ dihedral led to a big ledge and two 25′ awkward squeeze chimneys ensued which eventually dumped you out on a large ledge with belay anchors. J did a wonderful job leading this pitch – I think he does well in tight squeeze chimneys as he loves caving and getting in tight spots. Even on top-rope, I had some tough moves and positions in these squeeze chimneys on Pitch 1 somewhat due to my SLR camera on my harness, but my hat was off to J for a great lead.

J led the 120′ 5.7 Pitch 1 for team Chalk-Weingast. J is focused here at the top of Pitch 1

Looking down Pitch 1. The first squeeze chimney can be seen on the right

I was extremely hot upon reaching J at the Pitch 1 belay anchors, so I took off my Marmot windshirt jacket, wrapped it up in a rock, and sent it sailing down to the base of the route obviously letting team Hill-Cizik know first of my intentions. Jesse was belaying Steve at the time I sent the shirt and rock sailing 120′ yet Jesse yelled and darted out of the way of the incoming missle. I guess my throw was pretty dead on. We all wished we had captured that episode on video as it was pretty hilarious. J & I swapped my rack and I took off up the slightly intimidating 100′ 5.8 Pitch 2. I have read reports that some folks thought this pitch was harder to lead than the 5.9+ crux Pitch 3, though I didn’t think that was the case. It was a solid 5.8 crack lead for sure, but nothing runout like Pitch 3. I could have used two #4 camalots as I had to move one with me, but it worked out and I was soon at the Pitch 2 belay anchors.

Me leading the 100′ 5.8 Pitch 2

Me finished with the cruxy crack moves of Pitch 2 and on easier ground

J cleaned Pitch 2 nicely and cruised up to me while Jesse started the lead of the same pitch behind him. The whole time I was belaying J up Pitch 2 I was scoping out the first 30′ of the crux 5.9+ Pitch 3. It was definitely a bit intimidating, though I was excited. I was able to stem my way up 6′ or so and found some old webbing wrapped around a chockstone in the off-width chimney. It seemed solid, so I ran a biner and sling on it. I then mantled up to a small ledge on which I could stand and was able to clip the first of three bolts on the pitch. This bolt is well placed and protects the first 5.9 crux move of the pitch. It was a tough sequence of moves, but the goal was to move slightly right past the bolt and pull yourself up to a decent rest before the big off-width chimney.

Me leading past the first crux move on the 100′ 5.9+ Pitch 3

I then entered the large off-width chimney, placed a cam in a chockstone, moved up another 8′ or so and clipped the second of three bolts on the right face in the chimney. Stemming my way up another 5′ in the chimney, I was able to clip the last of three bolts on the face itself just below the 5.9+ crux moves. The 8′ crux section involves either face climbing to the left, stemming on smooth calcite, or laying back the off-width. I chose to lay back the off-width, but don’t ask me why. Steve thought I was nuts for doing it this way. I should have face climbed to the left as he did. Nevertheless, after laying back the crux, I slid my whole left leg and knee into the chimney locking it out to give my arms a rest. I was a good distance above the last bolt and needed to get some sort of protection in. I was able to slide in a small cam into a crack deep in the chimney. After a few more big chimney squeeze moves, I found myself way above my last cam, yet was able to get a very small nut in a tiny crack of a chockstone within the off-width chimney. It didn’t inspire alot of confidence, but is what I needed mentally. I then entered the chimney completely and was able to body stem up using decent holds inside the off-width until I could move out on the face and place my last 0.5 cam horizontally in a crack to protect the last big mantle move before the Pitch 3 belay anchors. Pitch 3 was indeed the crux of the route in my book. It had several small cruxes comprising the pitch, some very runout sections, and not many places for good protection. Thank goodness the bolts were there, however. All in all, a heck of a pitch and a solid hard 5.9. I then anchored myself and brought J up Pitch 3.

The Pitch 3 off-width and Castle Valley below

J’s perspective up at me in the Pitch 3 off-width with about 15′ to go until he reaches me and the belay anchors

Steve said that from the Pitch 1 belay ledge he had a great view of me leading Pitch 3 at the same time Jesse was below leading Pitch 2. J soon joined me at the Pitch 3 belay anchors, I gave him my rack, and he took off up the final 80′ 5.7 Pitch 4. Steve was beginning the lead of the crux 5.9+ Pitch 3 at the same time and I was able to give Steve some beta from above as he led the pitch. He did a great job, but agreed with me that there were some serious nerve-racking sections and placements. J cruised the final Pitch 4 and before I knew it, he was on top at the Pitch 4 belay anchors. Steve reached me at the Pitch 3 belay anchors and we congratulated each other on a tough lead. The airy Pitch 4 was probably the most fun pitch of the route. Great moves and nothing too tough.

Steve almost to me at the Pitch 3 belay anchors and stoked to have led the crux 5.9+ Pitch 3

The second half of J’s lead up the 80′ really fun 5.7 Pitch 4 to the top of Castleton Tower

J & I then belayed each other up the final 5′ mantle to the summit plateau. It was a great feeling to be on the summit of Castleton Tower. We hung out for a bit, checked out the North Face rappel anchors, signed the summit register, and enjoyed the views.

J likes drop-offs to the point of making me nervous

Steve belaying Jesse up the final Pitch 4

Jesse leading the 80′ 5.7 Pitch 4

Steve on the final moves of Pitch 4

Jesse & Steve sooned joined us on the summit plateau and took in the views and sense of accomplishment as well. Castleton is such an airy tower that you really get the feeling you are high up in the sky when you are on the summit. We spent over an hour on top taking pictures, swapping stories, and enjoying each other’s company. Looking over the North Face, there was a party of two on the first pitch, so we decided to descend Kor-Ingalls as there was no one behind us on that route.

Me happy to be on Castleton Tower’s summit

The Rectory on the right from Castleton’s summit

Climbers on The Rectory near the bottom as seen from Castleton’s summit

The Fisher Towers in the distance from Castleton’s summit

Sun’s out, guns out! Castleton Tower summit with the boys. Not bad for the first of December!

Hanging out on Castleton’s summit

Three double rope rappels later we were safely at the base of Kor-Ingalls. The first long rap dropped us at the top of Pitch 2. The second shorter rap put us at the top of Pitch 1. And then the third rap put us at the base of the route.

Jesse on the first of three double rope raps down Kor-Ingalls

Steve on the second of three double rope raps down Kor-Ingalls

The climb went so smoothly that we were almost home free without any snags or delays. However, never count your chickens before they hatch. I came down the last rap last, tried to pull the ropes, and something was stuck. After 15 minutes, we just could not free the ropes. It seemed the knot was stuck on the final lip of the Pitch 1 belay ledge. Moving the ropes downhill and putting some serious muscle into whipping the ropes off the lip, we finally freed the knot and were able to pull the ropes. Worst case, we would have climbed Pitch 1 again, but who wants to do that 🙂 After some lunch and packing up, we were back at the car by 3pm for the long ride back to Vail. However, the ride was full of excitement and stories. You know its a good climb when you chat about it for hours on the ride home.

Castleton Tower on the hike out

The Rectory & Castleton Tower with the snow-covered La Sal Mountains beyond

I think Castleton was a terrific conclusion to a fun-filled season of good rock climbing with Kristine and the boys. Now, its seriously time to swap out the rock gear (just for now) for mountaineering boots and warm clothing for higher altitude adventures. Kristine & I leave Decemeber 22 for Aconcagua in Argentina with our friends Brett Wamsley & Maura Stack-Oden and we couldn’t be more excited. However, higher peaks around the state will be on the menu for the next few weekends. The next day after Castleton, we took a nice couple hour hike up Atlantic Peak with Rainie, Kona, J Weingast, & Mike Santoro. Atlantic is one of our local favorites since its so close, is relatively short, and gets you close to 14,000′. From desert towers to snow-capped peaks in a weekend with great friends and my wife! Couldn’t ask for much more!

From deserts to snow-capped peaks. Atlantic Peak summit (13,841′) the next day

I left Edwards at the crack of dawn the Saturday before Thanksgiving in a snow storm only to meet Jesse Hill in Fruita 2 hours later under partly cloudy skies with the landscape dry as a bone and a 50 degree daytime temperature. Our agenda for the day was a climb up the historic Otto’s Route on Independence Monument in Colorado National Monument outside Grand Junction. Jesse had climbed this route before a few years back with our friends J Weingast & Chuck Pratt, but was willing to give it a go with me since he had been in Vernal, UT all week for work and would be on his way back to Denver anyway.

Independence Monument on the 2.5 mile approach to the tower

The first ascent of this tower was by a political fellow named John Otto in 1911. Otto placed a United States flag on its summit on July 4, 1911 after its first ascent and hence the tower’s name. In recent years, local climbers have continued Otto’s tradition by planting a United States flag atop the tower each July 4. John Otto played an unstrumental role in declaring the area west of Grand Junction a National Park by Congress. Colorado National Monument became a reality by an act of Congress on May 24, 1911. Otto made the first ascent of Independence Monument by chipping & chopping steps in the soft sandstone as well as drilling & installing metal pipes to use as ladders. Back in that day, any means of getting to the top was fair game and regarded as a historic feat. The metal pipes have since been removed, but the ever-eroding holes still remain. These holes, or “Otto holds”, gives the route a moderate 5.9 free rating. Without these holes the route may be rated at 5.11 or even harder.

Looking up Pitch 1 of Otto’s Route from the base of the tower

Its about a 2.5 miles approach to the base of the tower. Though we saw various hikers, we were the only climbers on the tower before noon, which was nice. The trails in Colorado National Monument would make for wonderful trail runs as they are maintained well and not too steep. Jesse took the lead up the fun 140′ 5.5 Pitch 1.

Jesse leading Pitch 1

Jesse getting into the 5.5 crack of Pitch 1

Jesse at the Pitch 1 belay anchors

Looking down Pitch 1

I then led the shorter (80′) yet much more awkward 5.8 off-width chimney of Pitch 2. The Otto holds really were a tremendous help in this chimney. I cannot imagine leading this chimney without them. I brought Jesse up to me at the Pitch 2 belay anchors but not without some grunting by Mr. Hill in the chimney, which is always good to hear.

Me leading the 5.8 off-width chimney of Pitch 2. The camera on my waist and 2nd rope on my back made me a bit thicker around the middle minimizing my squeeze potential, but it worked out

We then de-roped, climbed up a class 3 bulge, and scrambled through the “Time Tunnel”, a  narrow 40′ long slot, to the base of Pitch 3.

Jesse on the other side of the Time Tunnel

Me & the remaining two pitches up Otto’s Route from a large ledge at the base of Pitch 3

Jesse leading the 5.7 Pitch 3 complete with three fixed pitons

After clipping three fixed pitons on the short 70′ 5.7 Pitch 3, Jesse brought me up to the Pitch 3 belay anchors at the base of the final Pitch 4. The final 80′ Pitch 4 is really fun and airy. Its pretty much a scramble up the chipped Otto holes to the 5.9 roof. There are three fixed pitons protecting the final 15′ and the cruxy 5.9 roof move.

Me leading the 5.9 roof of the final Pitch 4 of Otto’s Route

Me clipping the last fixed piton before the 5.9 roof move of Pitch 4

Jesse about to make the 5.9 roof move of the final Pitch 4

Jesse made quick work of the 5.9 roof move and was soon up to me at the Pitch 4 belay anchors. We then belayed each other up the final 8′ mid-5th class summit plateau mantle.

Jesse on top of Independence Monument for the 2nd time with Grand Junction in the distance

More towers of Colorado National Monument including the “Kissing Couple” in the center of the picture

Independence Monument summit register

I was excited to have finally climbed the historic Otto’s Route up Independence Monument and to have done it with Jesse

We arrived on top to have the whole summit to ourselves. The views overlooking Colorado National Monument & Grand Junction were spectacular. After 30 minutes on top, we decided to descend. Two double rope rappels later we were on the ground.

Rappel #1 off the summit down to the Time Tunnel

Rappel #2 from the Pitch 2 belay anchors to the ground

Its good we started earlier in the day because two parties were on Pitches 1 & 2 as we rappelled to the ground. The first group of three, in particular, was extremely slow on Pitch 2 so we felt bad for the party of two from Boulder who were beginning Pitch 1 when we hit the ground. We ate some delicious sandwiches Jesse had picked up in Fruita at the base of Otto’s Route and relaxed for awhile chatting with the nice girl from Boulder as she belayed her partner up Pitch 1. Packing up our gear, we checked out Jesse’s guidebook for some single pitch climbing on the way out since it was 1:30pm and Otto’s Route had only taken us about 2.5 hrs roundtrip.

Climbers can be seen at the anchors of Pitches 1 & 2 as well as in the 5.8 off-width chimney of Pitch 2 of Otto’s Route on our hike out

Independence Monument on the hike out. Otto’s Route ascends the other side of the tower

I found a really fun looking 5.8 dihedral in Jesse’s guidebook, so we hiked up to its base on the hike out. This was a perfect 5.8 layback dihedral and was so fun to lead and place gear in this perfect crack. I led it and then Jesse top-roped it. We then pulled the rope, Jesse led it, and I top-roped it. There is an extremely tough sport route about 20′ to the dihedral’s right that I tried to climb on top-rope off of the dihedral’s anchors. The face really looks blank and is hard to believe someone thought this would be a good route. However, with a nice belay from Jesse, I worked and grunted my way up to the height of the dihedral’s anchors and then swung over to be lowered. The sport route continued, but I didn’t want to climb higher than the dihedral’s anchors. Probably a good thing since I honestly don’t think I could have continued. The rest of the route looked almost impossible.  All good fun.

Jesse leading the fun 5.8 dihedral

Lowering Jesse after a nice lead

It was now 3:30pm and we decided to call it a day as Jesse still had a 4 hr drive back to Denver. We arrived back at the car around 4:15pm and said our goodbyes reflecting on yet another great day of climbing.

I believe the first time I had heard of this face was on Ted & Christy Mahon’s blog, Stuck In The Rockies, and it sure looked like alot of fun and a great Fall multi-pitch rock climb based on their climb. My good buddy Jesse Hill knows alot about everything in life including crags and obscure climbing places all over the state and had heard of it as well from a book in his library of climbing books. Even though the weekend was rainy and snowy in most ranges across the state, the town of Buena Vista was showing a stellar sunny and 60 degree forecast for this past Sunday. Even though I was down in Buena Vista the previous weekend, its only an hour and a half drive and it turned out to be well worth it given the climb, friends, weather, and gorgeous surroundings. Chuck & J went down the night before to car camp and hit the Mt. Princeton Hot Springs that morning while Jesse & I met them in the morning at 10am.

I’ll describe the “getting there” part by not describing it – perhaps to maintain some of the seclusive nature of this face. Let’s just say its a long 10 miles on dirt roads to where you can park and hike for 30 minutes uphill to the base of the face. The route we intended on climbing is called The Carter Classic (5.9 trad, 500 ft, grade II) which follows a crack up the center of the face and tops out at a large tree at the top. Its anywhere from 4-6 pitches, depending on what pitches you decide to link. There are a few other routes on this face including a 5.7 sport route as well as a 5.10a trad route which both go up a few pitches. It would be fun to go back to explore these other routes.

The Carter Classic route up The Davis Face

I believe we were at the base of the face around 11:30am and started climbing the long 5.6 Pitch 1 closer to noon. The warm afternoon sun was amazing. Chuck climbed in a t-shirt all day. J & Jesse teamed up as a 2-man rope team as Chuck & I did. Jesse and I decided we were over 3-man rope teams – way too much of a headache and too slow. J led Pitch 1 first and then Chuck started up to get some progress up the wall for our team.

J taking the first lead on the long 5.6 Pitch 1 for the J/Jesse team

I stayed on the ground until Jesse was at the top of Pitch 2 as our teams needed to spread out some to make things more efficient. Pitch 2 begins with the crux of the entire route – a stiff 5.9 roof. Jesse led the roof very well and then cruised on easier 5.8 above to the Pitch 2 belay.

Jesse on the cruxy 5.9 roof on Pitch 2

Jesse pulls the roof to easier ground above the 5.9 roof crux

Once J made it up to the Pitch 2 belay above, Chuck & I swapped leads and I took off up Pitch 2. The roof move was cruxy for sure, but I clipped the hidden fixed piton behind a flake quickly after making the move and got to a good stance. It was a pretty fun sequence of climbing moves despite my right climbing shoe toe which had completely worn thru the rubber a few days back. Made things a bit more interesting to say the least since I couldn’t get any good smeering with that right foot. However, it all worked out – just made me use my fingers and left foot more.

Me starting the lead up the crux 5.9 roof on Pitch 2

At a good rest above the crux 5.9 roof, I smile for Chuck

I then continued to climb and place a few cams up the 5.8 crack before I traversed left to another crack and eventually reached the Pitch 2 belay ledge. Jesse called to me from above saying to just continue on linking Pitches 2 & 3 because Pitch 3 was so short. Though short, Pitch 3 has some awkward 5.8 chimney moves. I soon reached Jesse at the Pitch 3 belay ledge. Jesse was belaying J who was leading the 5.8+ dihedral of Pitch 4 above. I then brought Chuck up to me cleaning my gear along the way.

Chuck climbing the 5.8 chimney on Pitch 3

I then continued to lead up the short 5.8+ dihedral of Pitch 4. I have heard this is the “mental” crux of the route though I am not sure why. It does have some tougher moves but its all there.

Me laying gear on the 5.8+ Pitch 4

Chuck & I then swapped leads for Pitch 5 and Chuck took off to the left on an airy no-pro traverse for 25 feet or so. He then placed a solid cam and continued for 30 feet up a layback 5.7+ dihedral to the Pitch 5 belay ledge where Jesse was belaying J above on the final Pitch 6.

Chuck on the airy no-pro traverse of Pitch 5

Chuck leading the 5.7+ dihedral of Pitch 5

(L to R): Mt. Yale, Mt. Columbia, & Mt. Harvard

Chuck & I swapped leads for the last time and I was off up the final Pitch 6, which is rather lengthy. I tried to do my best with gear placement and slings in order to keep the rope line as straight as possible and minimize rope drag. Jesse & J were already at the summit tree at the top of the route. J had led a line right of the Pitch 5 belay ledge while I led one to the left.  I would think both lines were probably at around 5.7.

Me leading the final Pitch 6 with the summit tree in sight!

I then brought Chuck up to the top of the route after cleaning all of my gear along the way. It was an absolutely stunning day in terms of the weather, the quality of climbing, and in terms of having my buds up on a face together. J & Jesse had located the bolted rappel anchors to the right of the summit tree from which we would begin our first rappel. While I have read you can hike down the backside of the Davis Face, rappelling seemed to be much faster and honestly alot more fun and exciting.

(L to R): J, Jesse, Chuck, & I at the top of The Davis Face via The Carter Classic route

We then made three 60 m double rope rappels down the face. The first was to the Pitch 4 belay ledge. The second was to the Pitch 1 belay ledge. And, then, the final rappel was to the ground.

J beginning the first rappel off the top

On my way down to the crew at the Pitch 4 belay ledge

Chuck beginning the second rappel

J goofing around on the second rappel with a gorgeous backdrop

J & Jesse simul-rappelling down Pitch 1. Chuck & I did the same thing and it was pretty fun & efficient

We all arrived down at the base of the face around 4:45pm, packed up, stowed gear & ropes, and hiked the 30 minutes back to the car. After some enchiladas & chili rellenos at Casa del Sol in Buena Vista, we all said our goodbyes and toasted to yet another wonderful day.

Another beautiful Fall weekend here in Colorado. Well, everywhere except on the Front Range where it was snowing/raining thru Sunday morning. However, absolutely gorgeous up here in the high country.

Kristine & my anniversary was last Wednesday, October 3, and we were treated with going out for a nice dinner on my parents! It was pretty special. Thanks, Mom & Dad!

Pre-anniversary dinner picture

A few pictures from Friday afternoon at our local rock climbing crag in Wolcott:

Rainie relaxing while we climb

Me laying gear over the roof on my new favorite Wolcott route, The Cretacean (a mixed trad/sport 5.11)

Me delicately trying to clip the 2nd bolt of The Cretacean once on the face about 30′ off the ground

Mike pulling the roof on The Cretacean

Kristine hanging out after climbing The Cretacean

A few pictures from some Buena Vista climbing on Sunday at Bob’s Rock with good friends:

Jesse laying gear up the 5.9+ trad crack entitled Air Soles

Chuck rappelling off a 5.10a with our basecamp for the day below

Jesse climbing the 5.10b Cartoon Watcher

Jesse coming down from the new arete route called Depends (5.10a) & flying high over snow-capped Mt. Columbia (14,073′)