I left Edwards at the crack of dawn the Saturday before Thanksgiving in a snow storm only to meet Jesse Hill in Fruita 2 hours later under partly cloudy skies with the landscape dry as a bone and a 50 degree daytime temperature. Our agenda for the day was a climb up the historic Otto’s Route on Independence Monument in Colorado National Monument outside Grand Junction. Jesse had climbed this route before a few years back with our friends J Weingast & Chuck Pratt, but was willing to give it a go with me since he had been in Vernal, UT all week for work and would be on his way back to Denver anyway.
The first ascent of this tower was by a political fellow named John Otto in 1911. Otto placed a United States flag on its summit on July 4, 1911 after its first ascent and hence the tower’s name. In recent years, local climbers have continued Otto’s tradition by planting a United States flag atop the tower each July 4. John Otto played an unstrumental role in declaring the area west of Grand Junction a National Park by Congress. Colorado National Monument became a reality by an act of Congress on May 24, 1911. Otto made the first ascent of Independence Monument by chipping & chopping steps in the soft sandstone as well as drilling & installing metal pipes to use as ladders. Back in that day, any means of getting to the top was fair game and regarded as a historic feat. The metal pipes have since been removed, but the ever-eroding holes still remain. These holes, or “Otto holds”, gives the route a moderate 5.9 free rating. Without these holes the route may be rated at 5.11 or even harder.
Its about a 2.5 miles approach to the base of the tower. Though we saw various hikers, we were the only climbers on the tower before noon, which was nice. The trails in Colorado National Monument would make for wonderful trail runs as they are maintained well and not too steep. Jesse took the lead up the fun 140′ 5.5 Pitch 1.
I then led the shorter (80′) yet much more awkward 5.8 off-width chimney of Pitch 2. The Otto holds really were a tremendous help in this chimney. I cannot imagine leading this chimney without them. I brought Jesse up to me at the Pitch 2 belay anchors but not without some grunting by Mr. Hill in the chimney, which is always good to hear.
We then de-roped, climbed up a class 3 bulge, and scrambled through the “Time Tunnel”, a narrow 40′ long slot, to the base of Pitch 3.
After clipping three fixed pitons on the short 70′ 5.7 Pitch 3, Jesse brought me up to the Pitch 3 belay anchors at the base of the final Pitch 4. The final 80′ Pitch 4 is really fun and airy. Its pretty much a scramble up the chipped Otto holes to the 5.9 roof. There are three fixed pitons protecting the final 15′ and the cruxy 5.9 roof move.
Jesse made quick work of the 5.9 roof move and was soon up to me at the Pitch 4 belay anchors. We then belayed each other up the final 8′ mid-5th class summit plateau mantle.
We arrived on top to have the whole summit to ourselves. The views overlooking Colorado National Monument & Grand Junction were spectacular. After 30 minutes on top, we decided to descend. Two double rope rappels later we were on the ground.
Its good we started earlier in the day because two parties were on Pitches 1 & 2 as we rappelled to the ground. The first group of three, in particular, was extremely slow on Pitch 2 so we felt bad for the party of two from Boulder who were beginning Pitch 1 when we hit the ground. We ate some delicious sandwiches Jesse had picked up in Fruita at the base of Otto’s Route and relaxed for awhile chatting with the nice girl from Boulder as she belayed her partner up Pitch 1. Packing up our gear, we checked out Jesse’s guidebook for some single pitch climbing on the way out since it was 1:30pm and Otto’s Route had only taken us about 2.5 hrs roundtrip.
I found a really fun looking 5.8 dihedral in Jesse’s guidebook, so we hiked up to its base on the hike out. This was a perfect 5.8 layback dihedral and was so fun to lead and place gear in this perfect crack. I led it and then Jesse top-roped it. We then pulled the rope, Jesse led it, and I top-roped it. There is an extremely tough sport route about 20′ to the dihedral’s right that I tried to climb on top-rope off of the dihedral’s anchors. The face really looks blank and is hard to believe someone thought this would be a good route. However, with a nice belay from Jesse, I worked and grunted my way up to the height of the dihedral’s anchors and then swung over to be lowered. The sport route continued, but I didn’t want to climb higher than the dihedral’s anchors. Probably a good thing since I honestly don’t think I could have continued. The rest of the route looked almost impossible. All good fun.
It was now 3:30pm and we decided to call it a day as Jesse still had a 4 hr drive back to Denver. We arrived back at the car around 4:15pm and said our goodbyes reflecting on yet another great day of climbing.
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