I always enjoy driving a few hours west of the Vail Valley to the high desert to crack climb. Its one of my favorite trips to do. No need to drive to Moab or Indian Creek or even into Utah for that matter. 2 hours and you can be in Colorado National Monument and then just shy of 3 hours you can be in Escalante Canyon. Mikey, J, and I did a daytrip to Colorado National Monument, specifically Tiara Rado, to hone our crack climbing skills in preparation for a few days in Indian Creek, Utah the following weekend. This was my 4th time at Tiara Rado, and while I wouldn’t recommend it for beginners (its easiest route is a tough 70′ cupped hands crack that goes at 5.9+), it is a great place in a nice setting and even gives you a 45 minute hike each way to/from the car.

Mikey leading Short Cupped Hands (5.9+)

Mikey leading Short Cupped Hands (5.9+)

Mikey placing gear

Mikey placing gear

Short Cupped Hands is a short route but full of excitement

Short Cupped Hands is a short route but full of excitement

Me leading 100' Hands (5.10b) on a gorgeous sunny day

Me leading 100′ Hands (5.10b) on a gorgeous sunny day

100' Hands

100′ Hands

Me getting higher. This is a sustained 100' 5.10 crack

Me getting higher. This is a sustained 100′ 5.10 crack

Me nearing the anchors - thank goodness!

Me nearing the anchors – thank goodness!

J then top-roped 100' Hands to get the feel for it

J then top-roped 100′ Hands to get the feel for it

Mikey on lead on 100' Hands

Mikey on lead on 100′ Hands

Mikey

Mikey

Looking up

Looking up

Mikey spotted this Rocky Mountain Bighorn from halfway up 100' Hands

Mikey spotted this Rocky Mountain Bighorn from halfway up 100′ Hands

Mikey's strength left him about halfway up 100' Hands and so J finished it off

Mikey’s strength left him about halfway up 100′ Hands and so J finished it off

J nearing the anchors on the wider section. What a great route

J nearing the anchors on the wider section. What a great route

Rainier, Kona, J, & myself were planning to head down to Indian Creek the next weekend since Sawyer & Kristine were heading to Dune Acres, Indiana on Lake Michigan for a girl’s weekend with all the Bates gals and their baby gals. However, the forecast was for a wet and dreary weekend in Utah, so that plan was called off. Fortunately, the Chalk ladies had wonderfully sunny weather on the shores of Lake Michigan. Sawyer just loved playing in the sand.

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I kept checking the weather forecast for another of my favorite spots which was about half the driving distance as Indian Creek from Edwards. The weather forecast for Escalante Canyon, CO looked favorable with possible rain starting Saturday evening. Good enough! The dogs, J, Tamra, Trevor, & Chelsey all packed up and headed west in my car and Tamra’s car for some car camping and cragging. While its fun to try and climb multi-pitch routes, its much more important to me these days to spend as much time as possible with Rainier and have her with me at all times since she is getting up there in age at almost 13 years old. She gave us a scare last week with a mass on her spleen, but fortunately the tests confirmed it being non-cancerous. We have to figure out now if its worth removing or if she can live with it as long as it doesn’t get any larger. Doing single pitch routes at crags is a lot of fun and means I can have the dogs with me as well. I believe you actually get more climbing in doing single pitch cragging than multi-pitch climbs, though it sure is fun topping out on a tower after a few pitches of climbing. My friend Natalie Moran also joined us that morning as she is living close by in Delta going to massage therapy school. She had no idea Escalante was in her backyard and I think was pleasantly surprised. Anyway, we got to the canyon just in time for me to take J over to one of my most favorite crack climbs called Willy’s Hand Jive just before dark. I led it and then we both climbed it twice. He loved it. The next morning Natalie met us about 8am at camp and we all went out and had a great day of climbing. I know there are a lot of climbing photos below, but you should have seen how many I actually took 🙂

Hiking up to Willy's Hand Jive. Photo by Natalie

Hiking up to Willy’s Hand Jive. Photo by Natalie

J on the classic splitter of Willy's (5.10+)

J leading Willy’s Hand Jive (5.10+). Photo by Natalie

I like this one of J leading Willy's

I like this one of J leading Willy’s

Natalie jamming on Willy's

Natalie jamming on Willy’s

Natalie at the pod crux near the top

Natalie at the pod crux near the top

Tamra's first go at a proper crack!

Tamra’s first go at a proper crack!

Tamra

Tamra

J again doing a lap

J again doing a lap

Me leading this 5.9+ route called Rusty's Cave. I'm actually in the cave near the top of the route

Me leading this 5.9+ route called Rusty’s Cave. I’m actually in the cave near the top of the route

Me making the crux off-width move to the anchors on Rusty's Cave

Me making the crux off-width move to the anchors on Rusty’s Cave

Tamra climbing Rusty's Cave

Tamra climbing Rusty’s Cave

Gus & Rainier

Gus & Rainier

Rainier enjoying the desert cloud cover

Rainier enjoying the desert cloud cover

Looking over at Natalie climbing Rusty's Cave from the base of Willy's

Looking over at Natalie climbing Rusty’s Cave from the base of Willy’s

Natalie

Natalie

Desert dogs

Desert dogs

I then led Willy’s Hand Jive clean this time with no rests and set up to take photos of the crew from above. I pulled the rope up to me while J took the other rope and led the route as well.

After a few times in which I've always had to rest on the rope at the crux pod orjust above not able to make the final move, I finally redpointed (no rests) this route and it felt good :)

After a few times in which I’ve always had to rest on the rope at the crux pod when leading Willy’s, I finally redpointed (no rests) this route and it felt good 🙂

J leading Willy's

J leading Willy’s

J jamming with Natalie belaying below

J jamming with Natalie belaying below

J negotiating the crux pod near the top

J negotiating the crux pod near the top. I’d rate the crux pod climbing as 5.0+ or likely 5.11- moves. Its tricky and the slightly overhanging nature adds to the spice

J reaching for the crucial face hold to the pod's left

J reaching for the crucial face hold to the pod’s left

J reaching for the ledge

J reaching for the ledge

Natalie starting up Willy's

Natalie starting up Willy’s

Natalie cleaning the route

Natalie cleaning the route

I like this one. Shows the intensity

I like this one. Shows the intensity

One last lap on Willy's for me

One last lap on Willy’s for me

Then, for the last 2 hours of our afternoon before we headed home, we hiked up to the Interiors Wall and climbed two fairly short routes we knew well.

Hiking to the Interiors Wall. Photo by Natalie

Hiking to the Interiors Wall. Photo by Natalie

Escalante Canyon. Photo by Natalie

Escalante Canyon. Photo by Natalie

Me leading Right of Lieback (5.10a). Photo by Natalie

Me leading Right of Lieback (5.10a). Photo by Natalie

Higher up on Right of Lieback

Higher up on Right of Lieback

Making the mantle to the anchors on Right of Lieback. Photo by Natalie

Making the mantle to the anchors on Right of Lieback. Photo by Natalie

J leading Lieback (5.9). Photo by Natalie

J leading Lieback (5.9). Photo by Natalie

A great 24 hours in Escalante Canyon with a great crew. Hopefully, we can get to Indian Creek later this year for some more crack climbing fun.