Rock Climbing | Seven Summits

Crackin’ in Escalante Canyon

by Brandon Chalk | May 6, 2015 | Camping, Rock Climbing

I have to say Escalante Canyon in western Colorado is my new favorite desert crack climbing destination. Very minimal crowds (closer to none at all), beautiful landscape and sandstone walls, Escalante Creek running through it, and potholes to swim in all make this canyon a great place to spend some time camping & climbing. So, when I moved my buddy Mike Santoro’s bachelor party from Indian Creek, Utah, to Escalante Canyon, CO, the day before our departure primarily because of a selfish reason to have running water nearby for Rainie & Kona, it surely didn’t disappoint and I think everyone was very satisfied and happy with the change of venue. Plus, it was a good 2 full hours closer to home. Spending almost 3 full days and nights in Escalante Canyon was special and afforded all of us the time to really explore the area whether crack climbing, hiking, or swimming. I think Mikey was more than pleased with the weekend’s fun & success. We had a motley crew most of the weekend with a few folks most of the crew had not yet met. However, we all quickly became pals and enjoyed our time together.

Escalante Canyon with the Elk Range visible in the distance to the east. Photo by Dillon on his 4-5 hour dayhike to the canyon rim on Friday

The San Juan Range and Mt. Sneffels as viewed from the canyon rim by Dillon on his Friday afternoon hike

Our camp way down below. Photo by Dillon

Another view of Escalante Canyon from the other side of the rim. Photo by Dillon on Saturday’s dayhike with J, Joel, & Lauran

We had very spacious and luxurious camp. Photo by Dillon

The days generally consisted of climbing between 8:30am and 2pm, swimming in the “Potholes” area of Escalante Creek in the heat of the day, and then climbing again for a few hours in the evening. Gosh, if every day could be lived like these days. I think we maybe saw two other people climbing all weekend. My kind of crag. We had a lot of beginners new to crack climbing as well and they all did wonderful and I think had a good time. Then, a few of us definitely challenged ourselves to some of the more difficult and classic cracks of the area. One note on the relative grades of several (most) of the routes we have experienced at Escalante: the rated grades really seem to be “old school” ratings much like Devil’s Tower. In most cases, they will feel harder than the published grade. A 5.10 at Escalante may be a 5.11 at Indian Creek, which tends to showcase “new school” ratings. Bottom line is one cannot base a climb off the published rating – its all relative and subject to the individual climber. Yet, most of these climbs seemed to feel and climb much harder than they would let on. We climbed at two of the five major walls in the canyon – the Interiors Wall & the Cabin Wall. We climbed a few more routes we don’t have pictures of including the route called Key Hole on the Interiors Wall and an unknown 5.8ish climb next to the unknown offwidth we have pics of below. Pics sorted by the routes at each wall we climbed are as follows:

Interiors Wall

Mike leading the offwidth called Lieback (5.9) on the left while Jesse leads Right of Lieback (5.10a) on the right. Photo by Dillon

Dillon climbing the awesome cave route called Interiors (5.9-)

Me beginning the fun lead of The Shaft (5.10a) in the cave

J climbing The Shaft, which was fingers/thin hands to perfect hands up higher

Looking up at J in the cave at the top of The Shaft

Me leading this pretty tough route involving a little bit of everything – fingers, thin hands, hands, a fist or two, and offwidths. This one tore up my arms. I just saw that it had anchors 100′ up and went for it. No idea what it is called or rated

Me trying to find the gear on this same unknown offwidth

Tamra had a good time watching me, Jesse, Mikey, & Gracson on this unknown offwidth crack climb

Mikey getting an “assisted” belay by Shawn in attempt to inch Jesse up the crack

Gracson on the unknown offwidth. He did great on this route

Cabin Wall

Racking up at the Cabin Wall on Saturday. Photo by Dillon

Me giving Jesse a spot while beginning his lead of the route dubbed Unknown Flake (5.9). Photo by Dillon

Dillon on Unknown Flake

Joel sending Unknown Flake. Photo by Dillon

Me pulling the bouldery crux on the route called Unknown Awkward. This route is designated a 5.9+ online, but I would have to tend to disagree on this rating as would everyone in our crew. Feels much more like a 5.10+/5.11a. I don’t know what 5.9+ has a bouldery start and a finger crack 🙂 Photo by Shawn

Me getting through the bouldery crux on Unknown Awkward. Photo by Shawn

Joel climbing TH Crack (5.8). Photo by Dillon

Rock star Shawn Wright leading Rednekk Justus. This route is published as a 5.10+/5.11, but I think most of us would agree is more like 5.12-. Photo by Dillon

Shawn higher on Rednekk Justus. Photo by Dillon

Mikey cranking hard on Rednekk Justus. Photo by Shawn

Me leading the intimidating S-Crack (5.10c). However, I would tend to go with a 5.11 rating due to the lower bouldery finger section and 30′ of offwidth at the top. All I could think about while leading this was how Alex Honnold free soloed up and down this. I felt pretty inadequate, but then again it is Alex Honnold 🙂 Photo by Dillon

Me leading S-Crack. Photo by Dillon

J on S-Crack. Photo by Dillon

Mikey giving Willy’s Hand Jive (5.10) a solid lead attempt on Friday evening after a day of climbing

Shawn leading Willy’s Hand Jive on Sunday morning

Shawn pulling the awkward off-width pod crux on Willy’s Hand Jive

Mikey on Willy’s. Photo by Shawn

Mikey hand jiving

Me leading Willy’s Hand Jive. This was probably my favorite route we did all weekend. 100′ of hand jamming and a tough crux 90′ off the deck – wow. Photo by Shawn

I love these pics Shawn took of me on Willy’s 🙂

Hand jammin’! Photo by Shawn

In the #3 cam section. Photo by Shawn

Me at the offwidth pod crux on Willy’s. Photo by Shawn

Jesse cranking Willy’s. Photo by Shawn

Gracson in good form on Willy’s Hand Jive. Photo by Shawn

While I didn’t want to leave on Sunday, I was exhausted. Doing these kind of weekends wears me out much more than climbing peaks all weekend. The dogs were all tuckered out as well. Trevor’s birthday was Sunday, May 3, and we stayed up well past midnight on Saturday night to ring in his 27th birthday. Ah, to be 27. Though, he didn’t come into work until noon on Monday. But that could have been the 27 beers he drank for his birthday. All in all, a phenomenal weekend.

Saturday night group shot with a nice moonrise

I still feel today like Rainie did on Saturday. Photo by Dillon

Sawyer Adventures

by Brandon Chalk | Apr 8, 2015 | Miscellaneous, Rock Climbing, Sawyer

The past few weekends have afforded Kristine & myself some wonderful adventuring with little Sawyer as well as Rainie and Kona. While we might not be going out on all day outings either climbing or hiking/skiing peaks these days, these are the most valuable times where you really enjoy showing your children the beautiful outdoors and introducing them to your passions. So, from swiss bobbing to Cordillera’s nordic course pulk sledding to Escalante Canyon rock climbing to backpacking up our local Red & White Mountain, Sawyer has done it all these past few weeks and I think, for the most part, enjoyed herself. Obviously, there are the tougher, stressful times during these outings, but we believe it will all make Sawyer a bit stronger in the long run (hopefully). We sure enjoyed being with her.

My 1st swiss bob

Hanging with my dog, Rainie

Wolcott Upper Tier climbing:

Hanging with Dad

Me finishing the lead of one of our favorites - The Guru Crack (5.9)

Dad finishing the lead of one of our favorites – The Guru Crack (5.9)

Mom at the crux on The Guru Crack

Rainie standing guard while Sawyer sleeps at the Upper Tier

Rainie standing guard while I sleep at the Upper Tier

Kristine & Sawyer at the Sunset Wall of the Upper Tier

Mom & Sawyer at the Sunset Wall of the Upper Tier

Red & White Mtn & Cordillera Pulk Sledding:

We hiked up to our favorite car camping spot on Red & White

A beauty day

In the pulk, Julbo glasses on, ready to roll

Dad pulling me around the couple mile course

The downhill was exciting

All the ladies

Escalante Canyon, Colorado:

It was a hot & sunny day in this remote canyon. Too hot for me (Sawyer) to take a nap, which made for a shorter day for all of us. However, we got a few climbs in and look forward to another trip to this area

Jesse working the tough 100' trad climb called Unknown Awkward at the Cabin Wall. While reported 5.9+, the consensus was that the climb was in the 5.11 range. We agree

Jesse working the tough 100′ trad climb called Unknown Awkward at the Cabin Wall. While reported 5.9+, the consensus on Mountain Project was that the climb was in the 5.11 range. We agree 🙂

Mom on Unknown Flake (5.9)

Mom higher on Unknown Flake

Me leading up TH Crack (5.8)

Jesse high on the fun TH Crack

Back at home

Able to sit up now

I do like to grin and silently laugh 🙂

1st time in the backpack (6 miles RT and 2,000′ up Red & White Mountain to the base of the bald spot):

Ready to rock with Dad

At the T-junction on the Red & White Mtn road (FS 779). This was our turnaround point

My CO hat and matching Julbos

Heading down on yet another beautiful day

The backpack was a success!

Easter 2015:

We went over to a friend’s home for brunch

Sitting up and playing in my Easter attire

The fam

With Dad

Happy

Sawyer’s 1st Upper Tier Outing

by Brandon Chalk | Mar 9, 2015 | Rock Climbing, Sawyer

With temps in the 50s and the sun shining bright and warm among bluebird skies, we packed the Chalk family up and headed 6 miles west to Wolcott to take Sawyer to the Upper Tier for her first time. We were going to head to Monument Canyon in Grand Junction for the day for some crack climbing in the warm sun, but I checked out Wolcott early Saturday morning and being all dry and devoid of any snow, we chose the 6 mile drive one -way instead of a 150 mile drive one-way.

Sawyer taking her morning lounge on the couch

J joined us not too long after we set up shop at the base of the Bocco Area after the all-to familiar 30 minute hike. We carried Sawyer’s bouncy chair and slid it inside a collapsible, flexible mesh doggy crate Kristine had gotten for Kona years ago to provide some relief for Sawyer from the sun (and us). Despite being 7 years old, the crate is brand-spanking new. Sawyer sported her new Julbo glasses and sunhat. Sawyer has always really seemed to enjoy the fresh air and sights and sounds of the outdoors, especially this day with the gorgeous weather.

Kristine & sporty Sawyer

At the Upper Tier

Sawyer in her abode with Rainie looking in

Kristine & I took turns watching Sawyer while the other climbed with J. Sawyer even took a good hour nap. After a few 5.8+ sport routes, we climbed this fun wide trad crack called Arrow (maybe 5.7) we had walked by for years yet never climbed. Then, J and I finished on our favorite sport route Osso Bocco (5.10+/11-) at the Upper Tier. A good 5 hours outside in some gorgeous weather with all the Chalks and J.

Kristine climbing Arrow

Wide angle of Kristine on Arrow, snow-covered hills, and the always beautiful I-70 🙂

J leading Arrow

Me trying to be quiet due to Sawyer napping in her crate while belaying J up Osso Bocco

J pulling the crux of Osso Bocco between the 1st & 2nd bolts

Adios, Upper Tier

TN Pass Cookhouse & Monument Canyon

by Brandon Chalk | Jan 28, 2015 | Miscellaneous, Rock Climbing

For Kristine’s birthday, the Chalks visited the wonderful Tennessee Pass Cookhouse at Ski Cooper again but it was our first time with Sawyer. Its always a plus to go on a nice, sunny day for the views and so the dogs can hang outside the yurt while we dine inside. We have always gone for lunches at the Cookhouse for the views, but I hear the dinners are awesome as well albeit more pricey. Reservations are required for either lunch or dinner. More info on the Cookhouse can be found here. Sawyer did great on the brief mile walk to the yurt at about 10,800′ and she had a ball inside always scoping out the scene and her surroundings. It was a nice afternoon.

Me & Sawyer on the Cookhouse’s front deck

Homestake Peak (13,209′) across the valley which we climbed and skied almost exactly a year go. Kristine was pregnant with Sawyer at the time, though we didn’t know it yet

Taking in the scene

Love the big wood stove inside the yurt behind us

Sawyer observing her surroundings

Mom & daughter

We think Sawyer is figuring out what her hands and fists are and that maybe they are hers? 🙂

On the Cookhouse deck after lunch

Mt. Elbert from the Cookhouse

The Tennessee Pass Cookhouse

Back at home relaxing on the couch

And, with that, I got to throw a few climbing pics in here. Last week I received an email from my buddy Ryan Masters to join he and his girlfriend Stephanie in Grand Junction for some warm crack climbing. I mean “you had me at hello!”. So, I drove down to Colorado National Monument for the day on Sunday and had a wonderful time in the warm high desert sun on the awesome sandstone with Ryan & Stephanie. Was great to see Ryan again and catch up on all things mountain-related.

Ryan leading Dihedral 1 - Left Dihedral (5.8+), an awesome 90' route

Ryan leading Dihedral 1 – Left Dihedral (5.8+), an awesome 90′ crack route

Ryan at the crux almost to the anchors. There is a second pitch to this route which goes at 5.12 or so

Me leading Luhr’s Route – Right Dihedral (5.9), a 120′ really fun mixed route involving some technical face climbing past 3 bolts into an awesome arcing dihedral. Photo by Ryan

Stephanie in the dihedral of Luhr’s Route

I then led this rather slabby, tough, and runout sport climb next to Luhr's Route called Circle, Square, & theTriangle (5.10a). Ryan then led it after me as seen here

I then led this rather slabby, tough, and runout sport climb next to Luhr’s Route called Circle, Square, & the Triangle (5.10a). Ryan then led it after me and did an awesome job as seen here. I believe its much easier & safer for taller climbers (in terms of clipping the bolts)

Ryan higher on Circle, Square, & the Triangle

Me leading the pretty cool 120′ dihedral called Wide Load (5.10a). Photo by Ryan

Me in the off-width portion of Wide Load, which I climbed much better than my last 5.10a off-width at Tiara Rado. Photo by Ryan

Stephanie at the crux of Wide Load – an overhanging hand jam into insecure finger jams

Me leading our 5th and final route of the day called Out of the Frying Pan Into the Fire (5.9). This was a very stiff 5.9 in our opinion and I’ve heard the face climbing at the bolts is more like 5.10. Photo by Ryan

Ryan climbing the initial fun 30′ of arcing finger crack before the face climbing on Out of the Frying Pan Into the Fire

Beautiful Monument Canyon. It was a nice day

Top of the World & Tiara Rado 3

by Brandon Chalk | Nov 12, 2014 | Miscellaneous, Rock Climbing

Well, little Sawyer is now officially 1 month old and we celebrated by taking her on a 4WD adventure in my Tahoe and hiked up to one of our favorite campsites we have dubbed “Top of the World” at 11,710′, her personal altitude record thus far in her short lifetime. Its only about a mile and 600′ vertical gain to the campsite from the parking spot, but man what a view of all of our favorite Gore peaks to the north, Tenmile Range peaks to the east, and Northern Sawatch peaks to the south.

Sawyer on the hike to “Top of the World”

Kristine & Sawyer – I didn’t even realize that Zodiac Ridge made it into the picture in the distance between the trees

A gorgeous day to be up high

Kona!

Raindog enjoying her first snow of the season

Family Pic at the “Top of the World” campsite

Mt. Silverthorne, Zodiac Ridge, & Red Peak

Left to right: Mt. Silverthorne, East Thorne, Zodiac Ridge, & Red Peak

Outer Mongolia Bowl and the northern Gores

Left to right: The Grand Traverse, Palomino Point, Mt. Valhalla, and Snow Peak

At about 2-1/2 weeks old, I took Sawyer up Arrowhead ski mountain with the dogs for her first time up this very familiar spot – one which she will undoubtedly go up and down on foot, skis, & swiss bobs hundreds and hundreds of times. She did so very well and seems to always love to be “on the move”. Its comforting for her. And, she didn’t fuss about being hungry until we got back to the car. Its about 2 miles and 1,700′ of vertical gain straight up the ski slope to the top of Arrowhead. This little first adventure for Sawyer allowed Kristine to finish her paper for her master’s class.

Top of Arrowhead (9,100′)

Then, the day before Sawyer turned 1 month old, Mike Santoro and I headed back down to Tiara Rado in Grand Junction for some more crack climbing.

Me leading 100′ Hands again…just so good

Me leading 100′ Hands

Mike on the lower corner system of 100′ Hands

Mikey jamming

Mike

The feet are good on 100′ Hands

After a cruxy roof move, I gave this route called Large Surprises a try…it was interesting

Me in the thick of this offwidth crack…ugh. I had to aid my way up the final 20′ using two #5 cams because I could not figure out how to make upwards progress. I think I will stay clear of offwidth cracks from now on

Mike on the initial roof move of Large Surprises

Mike laying back to the small ledge

Sawyer is definitely getting bigger, able to hold her head up, and growing on Rainier & Kona.

Me & Sawyer

Kona being a good babysitter

Until next time…

Tiara Rado 2

by Brandon Chalk | Oct 6, 2014 | Rock Climbing

Jesse and I returned to our new favorite desert crack climbing crag in Colorado National Monument outside of Grand Junction this past Saturday. Its a very nice day trip for me from Edwards while a much longer drive for Jesse from Denver, but its all worth it.

I led the familiar Short Cupped Hands (5.9+) and then Jesse jammed it very well

Jesse higher on Short Cupped Hands

Temperatures were in the mid 70s and the weather was just about perfect. We saw two other fellas heading for Oompah Tower, whom we later saw on the Tower’s summit, but that was it the entire day. This place is a real gem. We went onto attempt the classic line called 100′ Hands, which goes at around a 5.10a/b. It was a very enduring pitch for me to lead, as it was just so long with not many rests at all, but I led it clean and was happy with myself. It definitely ate up the gear – a lot of gear goes into a 100′ hand crack.

Me beginning the lead of 100′ Hands (5.10a/b)

Getting my first piece of pro

Getting out of the corner and onto the face about 20′ up

Karate chop jams

So good and fun

Close-up of me plugging away

A long route

Jesse on 100′ Hands

Jesse in the corner of 100′ Hands

Jesse hand & foot jamming

Doctor Hill

Jesse nearing the final portion of 100′ hands

I then top-roped 100′ Hands and had a good time swinging around on the way down

We checked out the route called Singles (5.10a) next door to 100′ Hands, but we did not have any #5 cams, so next time. We scoped out a few more future climbs and then concluded with the familiar Dirty Martini (5.10).

Me leading Dirty Martini (5.10)

After climbing Dirty Martini, Jesse had to stem up and summit this tower

On top

Then, I had to do it, of course

Success

On the hike out, the two locals we met on the hike in had topped out on the Oompah Tower. The scenery is spectacular and we really felt like we were understanding our surroundings better on this second trip to the area.