Kristine & I were trying to come up with a peak to climb on the way down to Denver for our friend Jesse Hill’s annual summer solstice party and the high centennial 13er, Pacific Peak, fit that bill perfectly.

Pacific Peak juts out like a shark’s tooth as viewed from the east in Mohawk Lakes Basin

I had always wanted to climb the classic steep north couloir of Pacific Peak, but this day was just as enjoyable and fun as that climb would have been since we could take the dogs and we wouldn’t have to get up as early to hit the snow conditions just right. Plus, with a late night solstice party to follow, the more we could sleep in, the better. Rainier was somewhat sick last week (upset stomach), which made Kristine & I worried. After some new food, which was hopefully easier on her stomach, she got better. The realization I came to while debating the normal route vs the north couloir climb was that I want to spend as much time with Rainie as I possibly can in the mountains and on adventures because you never know how much time left you have with your loving pet. The steep, technical stuff can wait. Obviously, Kristine & I will still do these kinds of routes (to keep the blood flowing), but if there is a Rainier-friendly peak we can do and she is healthy and up for it, we will continue to do just that. Spending time with her in the outdoors and on adventures has been one of my most favorite activities in the past decade – something I will not always be able to do. The north couloir of Pacific can wait. We already have it on the agenda for next spring.

Lower Mohawk Lake

Rainie enjoying Mohawk Lake with Pacific Peak in the distance

After sleeping in a bit, the four of us began hiking at the alpine start time of around 9am. Pacific Peak and the Mohawk Lakes basin was all new terrain for us, except Kona, which was a fun aspect of this hike. Kona had climbed Pacific with our group of friends last summer while Kristine & I were in Australia. The Mohawk Lakes Basin is gorgeous and there are numerous lakes along the way making this a great basin for the pups to keep cool. The route then ascends up to the east ridge of Pacific Peak via a 30-35 degree snow gully where Kristine & I donned our microspikes on our trail runners and used our ice axes. From the top of the east ridge, it was a simple hike alongside the highest lake in Colorado (and possibly the entire United States), Pacific Tarn (13,420′), followed by some class 2+ scrambling towards the summit. Total stats for the route from where we parked was about 7 miles roundtrip and about 3,000′ of elevation gain. It was a really fun 5 1/2 hours of hiking with Kristine and the dogs and I was proud of Rainie. She had an absolute blast and still has the peak bagging mojo. And, yes, the dogs were pooped for the party, which was all part of our plan as well. Enjoy the pics of our hike up Pacific Peak below:

We used the snow gully at far left in the picture to access Pacific’s east ridge

Kristine climbing the 30-35 degree snow gully

Rainie observing me taking pictures of Kristine in the snow gully

Kristine trying to get a sun tan on her legs for our Bald Head Island, NC beach trip with my family over July 4

The lower portion of Pacific’s north couloir before it doglegs up to the summit

Rainie & Kona almost to the summit

The highest lake in Colorado, Pacific Tarn (13,420′), and 14er Quandary Peak in the background from Pacific’s summit

Kristine topping out on Pacific’s summit

Looking north to Crystal Peak, which we had summited and skied 3 weeks prior

Looking south to Atlantic Peak

Kona on Pacific’s summit

After a short 50 vertical foot scramble down from Pacific’s summit, I got a good luck at the upper section of Pacific’s north couloir

Pacific Peak (13,950′)

Me & Rainie on Pacific’s summit

Kristine, Rainie, & Kona on Pacific’s summit

Rainie heading down to Pacific Tarn while we glissade in the soft snow

Rainie & Kona heading back down the upper portion of the snow gully to Mohawk Lakes Basin

The 13er Mt. Arkansas (13,795’) had been on my radar for some time, especially the northeast couloir, for a spring climb/ski. However, with so much recent snow and avalanche accidents in the central and northern mountains of Colorado in previous weeks, I decided to hold off on this couloir and climb the north ridge, which looked like a fun challenge with some exciting scramble moves thrown in for extra credit. Arkansas is easily accessible from Highway 91 just south of Fremont Pass between Copper Mountain & Leadville and its north ridge offers a really fun climb in only about 5-6 miles roundtrip and under 3,000’ of vertical elevation gain. The final few hundred vertical feet to the summit has some fun scrambling as well, which goes at class 4, although these crux gendarmes can be bypassed on the ridge’s west side most of the time. For us, however, with the amount of snow and avalanche potential, it was much safer (though more exposed) to stay on the ridge proper up and over the gendarmes. Kristine, good friend Reid Jennings, and the dogs attempted this ridge a week ago only to be stopped short at the false summit primarily because we all didn’t think the dogs would be able to safely complete the ridge to the summit. The summit was still a ways off from where we turned around, though only a few hundred vertical feet. It was a little disappointing, but was a fun day nonetheless and good to get up high again with Kristine, Reid, Rainier, & Kona. Rainier is now 10 ½ years old, but still does so well.

Rainier on Arkansas’ north ridge with the west face of Mt. Democrat behind on May 5

Little did we know that the high peaks in the central & northern mountains of Colorado would get feet of snow a few days later, which made planning a reattempt a little discouraging. However, the weather looked good for the next Saturday morning, May 11, with clouds/snow coming in after 1pm and we’d be mostly on a ridge decreasing any exposure to avalanche terrain.  I knew there would be a lot of new snow up high, but didn’t think the breaking trail would be as extensive, especially on the upper north ridge, as it was. If you got to break trail, I always think “well, we all just get a better workout”. Plus, J & I had a birthday party in Blackhawk that evening so combining this Arkansas climb with Blackhawk and some granite crack climbing at South Platte the next day sounded like the right weekend recipe.

Fellow engineering co-workers and friends Mike Santoro and Zac Wurth joined us on the adventure as well. We started snowshoeing/skinning around 8:30am from Highway 91 with J being the only one on AT skis. In retrospect, it would have been nice to bring the skis as well. C’est la vie. We attained the north ridge head on after making our way through nice tree glades that would make for fun low-angled ski terrain.

Mikey & Zac climb the steep section to gain the north ridge proper

J skinning the north ridge

We met two very nice ski-mountaineering fellows, Ed & Bryan, after we climbed the steeper snow and rocks to directly attain the north ridge. There was significant new snow all around and was some legitimate trail breaking up to the saddle where the north and northeast ridges intersect to form the north ridge to the summit. It was a nice day thus far and was fun making our way up the easy north ridge admiring the view.

Me breaking trail up the north ridge while Ed breaks a skin track

J skinning with Ed & Bryan, fellow mountaineers we met on the north ridge

Mikey climbing the north ridge

At this point, we traded our snowshoes and skis for ice axes and crampons for the ridge climb to the summit even though we would have liked some flotation for the deep snow. However, the ridge was too steep and dicey for snowshoes and skis/skins and so we left them at the saddle. Bryan & Ed then clicked into their skis and skied the wonderful north chute down into the north bowl separating the north & northeast ridges. The north ridge up to the false summit where we had turned around 5 days earlier was some really deep snow.

Reid & Kristine on the north ridge below the false summit on May 5

Me at the same spot on the north ridge below the false summit 5 days later on May 11. Notice how much more snow there is

However, beyond the false summit, the trail breaking let up a bit as I’d sink in only 12” and not 24”. I went ahead to scope out the crux moves up and down the gendarme and it proved to be very doable with some exciting moves and exposure. Zac & J followed me while Mikey remained on the false summit observing our progress from a great perch in the sky as he thought he would be too slow with the incoming weather. The mountain will always be there.

Me topping out on the gendarme on the north ridge proper

Once at the false summit, the real fun began on the class 4 crux as the ridge narrows. Here, Zac negotiates this class 4 crux as seen from the top of the gendarme

The final slog up to the summit after downclimbing the gendarme was a slog in the fresh new snow. We could see snow showers in the distance and clouds were building yet it was still decent weather over Arkansas. We made the summit around noon and after about 20 minutes started the descent, which was much easier now that we had a bootpack.

J & Zac making their way up the north ridge

J almost to the summit

Mt. Arkansas summit (13,795′)

View south to Mt. Sherman from the summit

Looking back down the north ridge with our tracks visible from Arkansas’ summit

Heading back down to the notch

J & Zac climbing back up to the top of the gendarme on our return

Me climbing back up the gendarme on our descent

Me negotiaing the class 4 crux on the way back down

Me on the class 4 crux

Left to right: Mike, J, Zac

Looking back up to Mt. Arkansas from the false summit

Soon enough we were back on the false summit with Mikey and then back down to where we stashed our snowshoes and skis. J & I turned our beacons on and I observed him skiing down the north chute from the north ridge. He later said that those were some really fun turns as they sure looked like fun from above.

J skiing the north facing chute

The three of us on snowshoes reached the cars around 2:30pm with J obviously reaching them much earlier. It was a great 6 hrs up on Arkansas and I was happy to have reached the summit this time around in some pretty tough conditions. One thing I did notice was that how much the snowpack is settling, even with the recent snow, which makes me more optimistic in terms of avalanche safety in the upcoming weeks for some ski-mountaineering trips.

Ski tracks down the north chute into the north bowl from J, Ed, & Bryan

J & I then set off for Golden and then late night fun in Blackhawk for the 35^th birthday of our good climbing friend, Matt Reigner. After an evening of rooftop hot tubbing and craps playing, where everyone just about broke even (I just observed and enjoyed cocktails), we met our good friends Jesse Hill & Derek Drechsel in the South Platte area for some granite crack climbing in preparation for J & Jesse’s upcoming trip to Yosemite – a trip I wish I were going on. Next year for sure. All in all, a fun-filled weekend. J & I were glad to sandwich the Blackhawk night with two outdoor-related adventures. I honestly just feel better about spending a night in Blackhawk being able to combine it with some outdoor activities. But, that’s just me 🙂

Ever since first visiting Telluride in 1998, I had heard of this infamous peak called “Lizard Head” at the base of the Wilson Group. I didn’t even know it was “climbable” for years. Then even when I did find out people climb it, I didn’t think Kristine & I would be attempting to climb it. Lizard Head is generally regarded as Colorado’s hardest 13er to climb by its easiest route with the standard southwest chimney, aka “south crack”, rated at 5.8+. Lizard Head is fairly easy to access off of Lizard Head Pass at the Cross Mountain trailhead yet its still about 4 miles and 2,800′ of elevation gain to reach the base of the tower. So, a bit more effort than going to your local rock climbing crag. Per John Kirk, Lizard Head is the hardest peak in Colorado above 12,461′ with 300′ of vertical rise. He notes that Twin Peaks at 12,461′ rated at 5.9 and Turret Ridge at 12,260′ also rated at 5.9 are harder to climb. The Index at 13,340′ is more difficult, but only has 240′ of vertical prominence. Lastly, there are other peaks in Colorado with over 300′ of vertical rise harder than 5.10 yet much lower in elevation.

Lizard Head from the Cross Mountain trail on the hike out

Now, a quick note about the history of this tower. From the book Climbing Colorado’s San Juan Mountains by Robert Rosebrough: “Lizard Head has an intriguing climbing history. At the time of its first ascent in 1920 by Albert Ellingwood and Barton Hoag, Lizard Head was probably the hardest rock climb then completed in the United States. Armed with three soft iron pitons, hemp rope, and nailed boots, Ellingwood and Hoag made a couple of abortive attempts on cracks near the southwest corner before rounding the corner to the west face. Ellingwood reported that ‘most of the enticing small holds crumbled at a touch, and large masses of the loosely compacted pebbles would topple dangerously at a slight pull.’ In spite of the difficulties, they struggled up and placed two of their rustic pitons in the lower cliff, saving one for the higher cliffs.” (note: the FA was via a different route than the present-day standard southwest chimney route.)

Our route up the southwest chimney, aka “south crack”, as seen from Lizard Head’s west shouler on the approach

Me starting up Pitch 1

Kristine & I hit the trail with fairly heavy packs (due to all of the climbing gear, rope, etc) at around 7:45am on what turned out to be a beautiful Fall day. A duo from Denver were at the trailhead when we arrived (I believe they slept in their car) intent on climbing Lizard Head as well and we got the feeling they were not too pleased with us showing up since they thought they would have the tower to themselves. Kristine & I booked it up the trail immediately and came upon a guided group of three about 45 minutes into the approach and quickly passed them as well. We figured if we got to the base of the tower first with plenty of distance between us and the groups behind, it would be safer and quicker and less waiting. We got to the base at around 9:20am, racked up, flaked out the rope, and I was off up Pitch 1 by 9:45am.

Pitch 1

Kristine all smiles almost up to me at the belay ledge

It was definitely some chilly climbing as we were in the shade rock climbing at 13,000′. We had to stop about every five moves and warm up our hands. Kristine then belayed me up the tougher Pitch 2 from the belay ledge. I started out by crossing onto the face to my left and clipping an old piton. I worked my way up the face for 20′ or so placing a few cams and a nut. This climbing was one of the sections rated 5.8+, but almost felt 5.9ish to me. There were definitely some tough moves – harder than I expected. I then was able to traverse back to the right side of the southwest chimney, place a few more solid cams in the crack, and top out at the webbing and rappel rings at the notch. I then belayed Kristine up to me and she agreed that there were some really tough moves on Pitch 2.

Kristine climbing Pitch 2

While we were climbing Pitch 1, the guided group of three had reached the base of the tower and were just going to wait for us to get to the base of the final Pitch 4 as the class 3 scrambling Pitch 3 is extremely loose and any loose rock would funnel directly down onto Pitches 1 & 2. Kristine then set off up a 5′ headwall above the notch at the top of Pitch 2 and then traversed across & up the class 3 section while on belay from me in the notch.

Kristine trying to stay on solid rock amongst all of the loose volcanic rubble on Pitch 3

Kristine slung a large, apparently solid, boulder at the top of Pitch 3/base of Pitch 4 and belayed me up the scrambling class 3 pitch. I did my best to tip-toe up this section being careful not to send down any large rocks, though small pebbles were unavoidable. We yelled a big “hoot” at the base of Pitch 4 to let the guided group know we were across the loose scrambling Pitch 3 and to signal it was safe for them to begin climbing Pitch 1. I then began to lead the tough final Pitch 4. It begins with a large bulge about 8′ off the deck in which there is an old piton in a small crack to protect the moves over the bulge. I clip the piton, wedge myself in the right crack/chimney, place a large #3 cam as high as possible, and then make the tough 5.8+ moves to the top of the bulge. Again, these moves felt 5.9ish to me, but it could be the fact that we’re making these moves at 13,000′ and not at 7,000′ in Wolcott where we normally rock climb.

Looking up the 5.8+ Pitch 4 with the bulge and fixed piton shown

I continued straight up the obvious chimney, which I heard was very runout (no means of protection), but I was able to get three cams in the 50′ or so I climbed up to the anchors on the summit ridge. This chimney climbing was real full body climbing by wiggling my way up and stemming in the chimney.

Looking down the final Pitch 4

With my belay from above, Kristine then set off to conquer the 5.8+. After a few tries, she just couldn’t quite make the moves necessary to get over the bulge. It is a very tough 8′ section to overcome the bulge – much harder than your typical 5.8+ crag. We both thought she was just physically drained from a long week, lack of sleep, the almost 3,000′ and 4 mile approach to the base of the tower, and the climbing thus far. Everyone has their off days and this seemed to be one of Kristine’s off days. Nothing to be ashamed of or frustrated with, though, as I know from personal experience, it is disappointing in the moment. Kristine is pretty much 100% everytime we go on some adventure, so its ok to have an off day here and there. I think bottom line is she just wasn’t feeling strong. Its good to have off days as it just makes you appreciate the good days. I have no doubt in my mind that she’ll climb Lizard Head again – hopefully, with me if I am lucky! The summit was not far off and so Kristine put me on belay from below and I ran out the rope as I scrambled across the very exposed and airy summit ridge to the top.

Lizard Head’s summit ridge from the summit with the final Pitch 4 anchors and my run out rope at bottom right

Old summit register atop Lizard Head

(L to R): Cross Mountain, South Mt. Wilson, Mt. Wilson, & Gladstone Peak from Lizard Head’s summit

Self-portrait on Lizard Head’s summit (13,113′)

Peering down Lizard Head’s vertical northeast face from the summit ridge

It was a satisfying summit as I had been wanting to stand on top of Lizard Head for some time now though I so much wished Kristine was with me. Another day and time for sure. Kristine took in the rope as I traversed back to the top of Pitch 4 and then she lowered me down to her. Thankfully, the rope pulled through the chains and down the Pitch 4 chimney though not without some serious muscle. We then belayed each other down to a perch where we could see the guided group finishing up at the notch at the top of Pitch 2. We communicated with the guide and waited patiently where we were for a good 45 minutes until they passed us en route to the base of Pitch 4.

Kristine on a perch with a view patiently waiting for the guided group to climb above us

The guided group of three climbing out of the notch at the top of Pitch 2 as seen from our perch above

Kristine then belayed me down to the notch at the top of Pitch 2 after some careful scrambling and placing a #1 cam to protect a fall from Kristine when I belayed her to me. I then set up the rappel down Pitches 1 & 2 from the notch as the guys from Denver were going to wait to start climbing until we rappelled all the way down. We weren’t sure our 60m rope would reach the entire way to the ground, so I rappelled first down to the Pitch 1 belay ledge. I then flaked out and threw the rest of the rope down Pitch 1 and it landed within a few feet of the ground which was good enough! Kristine & I had alot of fun on this long rappel. Good piece of beta here is that a 60m rope is long enough to rappel Pitches 1 & 2 in one single rap.

Kristine on the fun rappel of Pitches 1 & 2

We then stowed our gear, packed up the rope, drank alot of water & gatorade as we were severely dehydrated, and gave the guys from Denver a little beta on Pitch 1 and the rest of the climb as they racked up. After wishing them well on their climb, we headed off down Lizard Head’s west shoulder. Looking back at Lizard Head from its west shoulder, I couldn’t help but think that it reminded me of The Black Fortress from the 1983 British-American sci-fi fantasy movie entitled Krull. Yes, this movie would appear cheesy nowadays, but back in 1983 it was a great sci-fi fantasy film. Even a young Liam Neeson is in the film, so it can’t be all that bad, right? What I really like about the film is the music. I like sci-fi films even if they are 25 years old, though Kristine would beg to differ.

Lizard Head – the Black Fortress

The Chalks on the descent on a warm Fall day

We then hiked out to the Cross Mountain trailhead arriving at our car by about 4pm for a total roundtrip time of just over 8 hrs. We booked it back to the Telluride condo for Rainie & Kona had been home alone since 7am that morning. However, the Aspen leaves appeared to be at “peak” color along Lizard Head Pass and the hillsides were gorgeous. I am really happy Kristine & I decided to pay Lizard Head a visit. Kristine will climb it again and I sure hope its with me! I’ve heard many climbers vowing to never climb it again due to the dangerous and loose nature of the route. I believe, yes, it is loose from a rock climber’s perspective. However, it is not loose from a mountaineer’s perspective. The Wilson Group and other San Juan peaks are every bit as loose as Lizard Head. As always, one just needs to be aware of what is below him when traveling across loose slopes. I look forward to climbing Lizard Head again someday.

Close-up of Lizard Head on the hike out. Climbers can be seen on the summit ridge as well as rappelling Pitches 1 & 2

Kristine, the dogs, & I did one of our favorite local hikes on Saturday primarily to view the gorgeous Aspen leaves turning their annual brilliant gold. The A10 trail, which we often hike & run, is a mellow 7 mile loop stretching from literally our back door to Arrowhead topping out at about 9,400′ with spectacular viws of the Lake Creek valley & Mt. Jackson. As expected, there were numerous hikers & bikers out on this trail on such a spendid Fall day.

Rainie and the brilliant colors along the A10 loop

Fall colors up to Beaver Creek

Gold hill sides

We’re lucky to have these colors so close to home

The Gore Range from the A10 trail. Specifically, Peak C is at far left and West Partner Peak is at far right

Our good friends, J & Brett, who are climbing Aconcagua with Kristine & myself this December/January, joined us on Sunday for a climb of Snow Peak in the Gore Range. It was another spectacular Fall day to be outside in Colorado. Snow Peak is a rugged looking mountain standing at just over 13,000′ above the Deluge Lake basin. We climbed the non-standard southwest face to southwest ridge and the summit block ended up being several class 3/4 moves, which made it difficult for Kristine & I with the dogs. We were able to help them to the summit just fine but not without a few stressful situations with Rainie & Kona. We realized (I much more than Kristine – she already felt this way) that its just not worth it to bring the dogs up this kind of terrain anymore especially with Rainie approaching 10 yrs old and not being the climber she used to be back in the day. All in all, a cool climb up to Snow Peak’s summit. J & Brett cruised on the class 3/4 ridge proper, which looked like alot of fun.

The dog friendly (or, not so friendly) route we climbed up Snow Peak’s summit block from the southwest

Me & the dogs climbing Snow Peak’s summit block

Kristine & Kona on Snow Peak’s summit (13,024′)

Me & Rainie on Snow Peak’s summit (13,024′)

Team Aconcagua on Snow Peak’s summit on a spectacular Fall day

We then descended the much easier standard north ridge down to Snow Pass. Kristine took the dogs down to Deluge Lake to swim and cool off while the three guys headed north to recon the traverse over to another 13er, Mt. Valhalla. I had no prior information on the traverse so this was definitely an adventure. We were able to skirt a few towers and then able to regain the ridge proper for some fun yet exposed scrambling. The few towers we skirted to either side would be mandatory rappels following the ridge proper, but because we did not have climbing gear with us, we were forced to either side on extremely loose rock and steep scree. We finally scrambled up to the largest tower on the ridge only to be greeted with a 75-100′ vertical cliff on the other side. Again, with no rope and gear, we had to backtrack and just decided to call it and descend down the loose slopes back to Deluge Lake to Kristine & the dogs. There is an extremely loose rock gully immediately below the large tower’s west side that could be climbed to skirt this major obstacle. Perhaps a future endeavor. Nevertheless, some good recon on a traverse we really knew nothing about.  

Deluge Lake & Grand Traverse Peak from Snow Pass

Brett on the ridge proper

The route we took up to the base of the largest tower on the traverse from Snow Peak

The largest tower on the Snow – Valhalla traverse where we got turned around

Rainie loving life in Deluge Lake (11,700′)

After relaxing and having a bite to eat at the very cool Deluge Lake cabin, we set off down the trail and arrived back at the cars at around 4pm. A great Fall day with Kristine and our buds and, of course, Rainie & Kona.

Striking gold on the hike out from Deluge Lake