- Part 35

Snow Peak & Fall Colors

by Brandon Chalk | Sep 17, 2012 | Colorado 13ers

Kristine, the dogs, & I did one of our favorite local hikes on Saturday primarily to view the gorgeous Aspen leaves turning their annual brilliant gold. The A10 trail, which we often hike & run, is a mellow 7 mile loop stretching from literally our back door to Arrowhead topping out at about 9,400′ with spectacular viws of the Lake Creek valley & Mt. Jackson. As expected, there were numerous hikers & bikers out on this trail on such a spendid Fall day.

Rainie and the brilliant colors along the A10 loop

Fall colors up to Beaver Creek

Gold hill sides

We’re lucky to have these colors so close to home

The Gore Range from the A10 trail. Specifically, Peak C is at far left and West Partner Peak is at far right

Our good friends, J & Brett, who are climbing Aconcagua with Kristine & myself this December/January, joined us on Sunday for a climb of Snow Peak in the Gore Range. It was another spectacular Fall day to be outside in Colorado. Snow Peak is a rugged looking mountain standing at just over 13,000′ above the Deluge Lake basin. We climbed the non-standard southwest face to southwest ridge and the summit block ended up being several class 3/4 moves, which made it difficult for Kristine & I with the dogs. We were able to help them to the summit just fine but not without a few stressful situations with Rainie & Kona. We realized (I much more than Kristine – she already felt this way) that its just not worth it to bring the dogs up this kind of terrain anymore especially with Rainie approaching 10 yrs old and not being the climber she used to be back in the day. All in all, a cool climb up to Snow Peak’s summit. J & Brett cruised on the class 3/4 ridge proper, which looked like alot of fun.

The dog friendly (or, not so friendly) route we climbed up Snow Peak’s summit block from the southwest

Me & the dogs climbing Snow Peak’s summit block

Kristine & Kona on Snow Peak’s summit (13,024′)

Me & Rainie on Snow Peak’s summit (13,024′)

Team Aconcagua on Snow Peak’s summit on a spectacular Fall day

We then descended the much easier standard north ridge down to Snow Pass. Kristine took the dogs down to Deluge Lake to swim and cool off while the three guys headed north to recon the traverse over to another 13er, Mt. Valhalla. I had no prior information on the traverse so this was definitely an adventure. We were able to skirt a few towers and then able to regain the ridge proper for some fun yet exposed scrambling. The few towers we skirted to either side would be mandatory rappels following the ridge proper, but because we did not have climbing gear with us, we were forced to either side on extremely loose rock and steep scree. We finally scrambled up to the largest tower on the ridge only to be greeted with a 75-100′ vertical cliff on the other side. Again, with no rope and gear, we had to backtrack and just decided to call it and descend down the loose slopes back to Deluge Lake to Kristine & the dogs. There is an extremely loose rock gully immediately below the large tower’s west side that could be climbed to skirt this major obstacle. Perhaps a future endeavor. Nevertheless, some good recon on a traverse we really knew nothing about.

Deluge Lake & Grand Traverse Peak from Snow Pass

Brett on the ridge proper

The route we took up to the base of the largest tower on the traverse from Snow Peak

The largest tower on the Snow – Valhalla traverse where we got turned around

Rainie loving life in Deluge Lake (11,700′)

After relaxing and having a bite to eat at the very cool Deluge Lake cabin, we set off down the trail and arrived back at the cars at around 4pm. A great Fall day with Kristine and our buds and, of course, Rainie & Kona.

Striking gold on the hike out from Deluge Lake

The Royal Flush

by Brandon Chalk | Sep 10, 2012 | Rock Climbing

Kristine & I had been wanting to get back to this wonderful moderate rock climb above the town of Frisco ever since we were weathered off it below the headwall in late August of 2010. A late start, the impending weather, a crowded route, and our slow progress due to our unfamiliarity with the route (it was our first time) all contributed to us rappelling down the lower half of the route that day a few years ago. I had been back since to climb the route successfully with my friend Andy Dionne a few weeks later in September of 2010 as well as just this past July with a group of friends for Steve Cizik’s birthday.

The Royal Flush up Mt. Royal from Interstate 70

The Royal Flush is an awesome 1500′ sport climb up Mt. Royal’s north face above the town of Frisco. The approach is literally 5 minutes from the parking lot and anyone that enjoys rock climbing at moderate grades (up to 5.9/10) and can mentally deal with the exposure of being high up on a wall should climb this route. Some routefinding is necessary in terms of locating anchors, knowing when to combine pitches to make the climb faster, and navigating the two hiking sections, but after the first time, it really becomes a very fun and fluid climb. This is the kind of climb it was for Kristine & myself this past Sunday.

Kristine on the easy 5.4 pitch 1

Me at the top of pitch 1 on a chilly Fall morning

Kristine making the 5.10 roof move on pitch 3

Some route descriptions note the route can be climbed in 15 or as many as 20 pitches, but honestly many of these pitches can be combined with a 60m rope. Perhaps many of the intermediary bolt anchor stations are more for rap stations. Also, I think some route descriptions include the two hiking/scrambling portions of the routes in which you just coil the rope and hike as pitches themselves. As I had done before on my previous two climbs up this route, Kristine & I combined several pitches, for example pitches 1 & 2, which made for 9 roped pitches. This seemingly works pretty well and is fairly efficient.

Kristine on the fun 5.7 pitch 5 (we combined two pitches into one here)

The upper headwall is the prize of The Royal Flush. It is 500′ of quality rock climbing. There are two or three variations on the headwall with the easiest route including a long 5.9 pitch. This is the variation we climbed.

Kristine climbing the lengthy 5.7 pitch 6 on the headwall (we combined two pitches into one here)

Kristine making the short 5.6 pitch 7 traverse on the headwall

Kristine & I at the base of the 5.9 pitch 8 and still in the shade

Me starting the lead of the really fun 5.9 pitch 8

Kristine pulling the 5.9 roof move on pitch 8

Kristine climbing the 5.9 pitch 8

Kristine on the final 5.8 pitch 9 on the headwall (we combined two pitches into one here)

There is a summit register at the top of the last pitch (our pitch 9) with three volumes of summit log books. We fiddled through the books and found my entries from my two previous climbs. Then, all of the sudden, as we were signing our names, I noticed two guys’ names who had climbed this route a month earlier on August 3 – Tom Hornbein & Jon Krakauer! My dad & I had met Tom & Jon at the 2011 American Himalayan Foundation in San Francisco. These guys are great. We talked with Tom for quite a while about everything from Everest to Colorado. Tom made the first ascent of Everest’s west ridge in 1963 with Willie Unsoeld just a few days after Jim Whittaker reached the top of Everest via the standard southeast ridge as the first American to summit Everest. Even more so, Tom is 81 yrs old and climbed the Royal Flush just a month ago! Wow! I can only hope Kristine & I can come close to doing what Tom is doing at 81 yrs of age.

Anyway, after signing the summit register, we belayed each other up the final class 3 dirt/rock gully to a large tree as a fall down this 3rd class gully would send you airborne over the headwall for a long time. We topped out on Mt. Royal’s summit around 12:30pm, about 4 hrs after we left the car. We spent about 45 minutes on top relaxing and stowing our climbing gear in our packs. It then took us almost an hour to hike down the nice Mt. Royal trail back to the car. A wonderful morning with my wife on an awesome Fall day!

Mt. Royal summit (10,502′)

Mayflower Gulch Grand Traverse

by Brandon Chalk | Aug 26, 2012 | Colorado 13ers, Colorado Traverses

I wanted to relay some information/beta on this traverse as I couldn’t find much on it other than a faint route description over on summitpost. I hope it helps some folks who intend on attempting this traverse.

The Atlantic-Fletcher traverse with the 5 gendarmes labelled

My good buddy J and I had been eyeing this traverse for some time now. Dave Cooper in his Colorado Scrambles book calls it arguably the most dangerous of all the routes in his book. J and I found out that Cooper says this for good reason yet we both had alot of fun. The intense scrambling, routefinding, and technical rock climbing at over 13,000′ is just way too much fun. The traverse collects (3) high 13,000′ summits – Atlantic Peak (13,841′), Fletcher Mtn (13,951′), and Drift Peak (13,900′). The most difficult and dangerous section of the traverse is from Atlantic to Fletcher which includes navigating (5) pretty serious gendarmes and more than enough loose rock. The traverse from Fletcher to Drift is mostly class 2 off trail hiking with (1) 20′ rappel if going north to south. We chose to go north to south for the entire traverse as this allowed us to climb the low 5th class pitches of the gendarmes and the crux 5.7 pitch of the 5th gendarme. We like climbing the fun stuff rather than just rappelling it!

The 5 gendarmes from Atlantic’s west ridge

I had summited each of these peaks before as J had summited Atlantic, but we had never linked them all. We left the car at 6:45am and topped out on Atlantic Peak around 8:15am after climbing the west ridge which we had done a few times before in winter and summer. We then made our way down Atlantic’s fairly mellow (class 2/2+) south ridge to the low point of the ridge between Atlantic & Fletcher.

Looking back at Atlantic’s south ridge from the low point between Atlantic & Fletcher

There is a fairly straightforward descent down a scree gully from this low point to Mayflower Gulch if weather or climber’s condition warrants a quick retreat. First on the agenda is the scramble up and over gendarme #1.

The nice class 3/4 scramble up and over gendarme #1

There is another scree saddle/gully between gendarmes #1 & #2 which also likely lends itself to a quick descent back down to Mayflower Gulch. Gendarme #2 then quickly rears up in earnest.

Gendarme #2. We scrambled pretty much straight up this face using the cracks

We climbed pretty much straight up the face for 30′ – likely low 5th class or so.

J climbing gendarme #2

Looking down gendarme #2

From the top of gendarme #2, we traversed on and just below to the right (west) of the ridge proper on a sporty ledge system until we came to a big cliff that was not downclimable (at least by us). We found a nice chimney to scramble down on the west side of the ridge to avoid this cliff and scrambled back up to the notch below the cliff to regain the ridge.

J on the sporty traverse down from the top of gendarme #2

Scrambling down to avoid the cliff

Coming around to regain the ridge

J climbing up into the notch to regain the ridge below the cliff

It was then a nice traverse on the ridge’s east side from the notch to avoid a minor tower and climb back up to regain the ridge at the base of gendarme #3.

The traverse to gendarme #3 on the ridge’s east side

Gendarme #3 provided some exciting low 5th class, potentially 5.4, climbing up a right (west)facing dihedral for about 20′. There were some slings around a rock at the top of gendarme #3 as I would definitely rap this pitch if going south to north.

Our route up gendarme #3

Looking down gendarme #3

The downclimb off of gendarme #3 was pretty fun and pretty steep. This led us to the base of the fun looking knife-edge ridge section.

The dicey downclimb we did off of gendarme #3

Gendarme #4 immediately follows the knife-edge ridge.

The fun knife-edge ridge (right) and gendarme #4 (left) from the base of gendarme #3

J on the knife-edge ridge

Its completely unnecessary to top out on gendarme #4 as the route from the north & west to its top is very loose and steep. However, once you pass gendarme #4 to its right (west), you can scramble around on class 3/4 from the south to its summit.

Our route up to the right of gendarme #4

Looking back at the knife-edge ridge & gendarme #3 from just to the right (west) of gendarme #4

We did scramble up to the top of gendarme #4 primarily to get a preview of the crux of the route, gendarme #5. I had read in Cooper’s book that this was likely a 5.7 finger crack, though not your typical 5.7 trad crack at your local crag. As I found out, loose holds abound this crack system and anything is on the verge of pulling out. However, the pro is fairly good and I was able to place 4 cams, I believe, up to the marked belay station. True to what I had read, it felt like a 5.7. Also, a 30m, 8mm rope was just enough to get me to the belay ledge.

Our route up the 5.7 crack system of gendarme #5

J cleaning the 5.7 gendarme #5

J climbing gendarme #5

Now, in retrospect, and as we would recommend to anyone going north to south, stay roped up to the top of gendarme #5. We de-roped because the remaining climbing to the top seemed reasonable and not all that steep. We were wrong and half way up, it turned sketchy pretty fast and downclimbing was not an option. We topped out on gendarme #5 just fine but kicking ourselves for not staying roped up. I think there are a few places for some reasonable, perhaps mediocre at best, protection for this last 30′ to the top of gendarme #5. If going south to north, I believe you would need to make (2) rappels down gendarme #5. You would need a 60m rope for the rap from our belay ledge to the base of the gendarme as my 30m barely was enough one way.

J scrambling up the final 30′ to the top of gendarme #5 from our belay ledge

Very sketchy, loose, and airy low 5th class climbing. This picture doesn’t show the pretty good exposure of this pitch

Looking down from the top of gendarme #5

The Mayflower Gulch Grand Traverse to Atlantic Peak from the top of gendarme #5

We then scrambled up to the summit of Fletcher Mtn over much easier terrain (class 2+).

J & I on the summit of Fletcher Mtn with the most difficult & dangerous part of the traverse behind us

The first half of the traverse to Drift Peak from Fletcher Mtn is nothing more than class 2 hiking.

Descending to the Fletch-Drift traverse low point (Fletcher Mtn behind)

We then came upon a 20′ shear drop that we didn’t feel comfortable downclimbing, so we set up a quick rap. There may have been a downclimable route around, but honestly this was quicker and we didn’t look too long.

The fun 20′ rap into the sharp notch on the Fletcher-Drift traverse

It was then pretty easy class 2+ scrambling on the ridge proper to the summit of Drift from the notch.

J & I on the summit of Drift Peak

It took J & I right at 3 hrs and 45 minutes for the traverse from the summit of Atlantic to Drift including 25 min or so on top of Fletcher for some lunch and views, so not all that bad. We then descended Drift’s west ridge, aka Villa Ridge, which I had climbed this past winter and which I defintely prefer to descend in the snow. The loose and sharp rock really put a hurting on the bottoms of my feet. We then arrived back at the car around 2:30pm and reflected on a great 8 hrs up high on an awesome traverse. Even though the route is definitely loose and perhaps more dangerous than other traverses in the Gores or elsewhere, it is worthwhile for those seeking this kind of excitement. I hope these pics and route information help others plan their own Mayflower Gulch Grand Traverse.

Capitol Peak

by Brandon Chalk | Aug 20, 2012 | Colorado 14ers

This past Sunday, August 19, I joined my good friends Andy Dionne, Brett Wamsley, and Reid Jennings on a climb of one of my favorite Colorado 14ers, Capitol Peak. I truly always enjoy going back to this majestic mountain as it is the most dramatic mountain in our state in my opinion. Many people call Capitol Colorado’s hardest 14er by its easiest route and I would tend to agree. In terms of scrambling and exposure, it has all the of the other tough 14ers beaten. However, in terms of objective danger, i.e. rockfall, etc, I think a few others have Capitol beaten. I tend to think of it as the Grand Teton of Colorado with its most impressive north face standing as one of Colorado’s highest mountain walls above Capitol Lake. Andy is currently trying to finish up his goal of climbing all 55 of Colorao’s 14ers and Capitol would be his last of the tough peaks. Brett will be climbing Aconcagua with Kristine & myself this coming winter as Brett’s girlfriend, Maura, will be coming into Aconcagua basecamp with all of us, so this was a great kick-off to Brett’s training. Also, this was his first really tough climb and he did extremely well. This was my 3rd time up Capitol and always enjoy going back with good friends.

Reid backpacking in the 6.5 miles to Capitol Lake as the towering north face of Capitol looms behind

After briefly saying hi to Ted & Christy Mahon at the trailhead, who were finishing up one of their ridiculous 8 hr trail runs, Reid & I backpacked in the 6.5 miles to Capitol Lake Saturday afternoon/early evening in a quick 2 hrs and 20 minutes to find Andy, Brett, & Maura fishing in Capitol Lake. It was a nice evening of camping and sleeping out under the stars. We woke up at 5am and were on the trail at 6:15am after some oatmeal and coffee. The weather could not have been better and the fun and exciting northeast ridge, aka knife-edge ridge, was a great scramble as always. Everyone did great and we all summitted around 9am. We ran into Alan Arnette and his crew just after the knife-edge ridge portion of the scramble and were able to chat with him on the summit for a bit about big mountains and plans in the works. It was great to see him again and it looked as if his crew was having a wonderful day. I think the last time I saw him was at his 7 summits presentation in Vail this past winter. Check out Alan’s awesome blog and site at www.alanarnette.com. We then descended back to Capitol Lake and met up with Maura at 12:15pm. Sometimes on these types of peaks, going down takes as long as going up. After a quick dip in Capitol Lake, Reid & I said our farewells to Andy, Brett, & Maura and boogied out to the trailhead arriving at 3pm. A great 24 hrs out in the backcountry and I think it helped to cure my jetlag from Australia. A few Capitol pics below:

Some initial scrambling at sunrise en route to the boulderfield that leads up to the point called K2

Capitol’s northeast ridge from the summit of K2 (13,664′)

Brett crossing Capitol’s knife-edge proper

Reid on an airy portion of Capitol’s northeast ridge proper

Capitol Peak summit (14,130′) – Congrats, fellas!

Kosciuszko winter summit!

by Brandon Chalk | Aug 10, 2012 | 7 Summits News

Well, despite some really bad weather over the Snowy Mountains for the previous 2 weeks, we targeted the only day on Kozzy with 10% chance of snow and a pretty sunny forecast. It all worked out perfectly and we had a wonderful morning of clear skies. However, it was cold – very cold. The wind was whipping as well which added to the humid cold seeping through our clothing straight to our bones. It didn’t matter though – the sun was out. Henry, Kristine, and I stayed in the town of Jindabyne at a ski lodge of sorts the night before and drove up to Thredbo this past Tuesday morning, August 7. We hopped the Kosiuszko Express chair lift at 8:45am, donned our snowshoes at 9am at the top in some brutally cold and windy weather, and were off. There was a guided group in front of us who we caught up to after 30 min at the Kosciuszko lookout and chatted with a bit. Nice folks and a young fellow from New Jersey pursuing the 7 summits as well. We took off guided a bit by the map I bought at the Kosciuszko National Park Ranger Station in Jindabyne. We soon reached Rawson Pass and headed straight up to Kozzy’s summit. After about an hour and 45 minutes of snowshoeing on some really beautiful terrain with outstanding views, we were on top of the summit cairn of Australia. It was extremely windy up top but the views were gorgeous. A nice 5th of the 7 summits together for Kristine & I. It was extra special to share the experience with my good friend Henry. The Snowy Mountains are really a special range and Kosciuszko is a worthy summit even if it is only 7,310 ft above sea level. It is the highest point on the Australian continent. We all took our pics and after about 45 min up top, we descended. The guided crew had caught up with us while we were on top and all exchanged our congratulations. The guide said he hadn’t been up here in weeks due to bad weather, so we felt extremely lucky to have nailed it with the weather. Or, maybe we just planned it well 🙂 We then descended to Rawson Pass and went up another cool ridge to get a different perspective on Kozzy. Kristine and I were very proud of Henry as he doesn’t do this kind of stuff. He’s a surfer but thoroughly enjoyed every minute up and down Kozzy. We had hot chocolate back at the lodge at the top of the ski mountain and then took the lift down into Thredbo. All in all, from the top of the ski lift, the hike was 14km roundtrip, only about 1000 vertical ft, and 3.5 hrs for us. Henry the took the bus to Canberra to catch a flight back to Melbourne and Kristine & I continued on our ventures up the coastal towns towards Sydney. We are currently staying in Sydney with Kristine’s cousin, Ben Wiseley and having a wonderful time. Ben is a most excellent host! We’re going to drive back to Melbourne starting tomorrow (Sunday). Hope everyone is well! Thanks for tuning in on our new blog/site. A few Kozzy pics below: