Buffalo Mountain’s Silver Couloir

Buffalo Mountain is that big behemoth of a hill most of us have viewed a hundred times when driving west bound on Interstate 70 down from the Eisenhower Tunnel. Located in the southern end of the Gore Range and though only 12,777′ in elevation, Buffalo has one of the most spectacular ski lines called the Silver Couloir on its steep northeast face. This 3,000′ couloir tops out at around 40 degrees in steepness with most sections in the mid-30 degree range. It is even featured in the big coffee-table book Fifty Classic Ski Descents of North America by Chris Davenport, Art Burrows, and Penn Newhard and in the new guidebook Climbing and Skiing Colorado’s Mountains: Fifty Select Ski Descents by our friends Brian Miller and Ben Conners. Its easy access, mellow approach to its summit, and great skiing make this a classic and I don’t know of too many other ski lines where you can get as much “bang for your buck” in terms of effort involved for great skiing.

I’ve been fortunate to climb and ski Buffalo now three times and each has been a great outing. My first experience was by myself with Rainier & Kona on a very late season July 3, 2008. I had just heard about this line and decided to go check it out with the pups and being July 3 I think it was relatively safe in terms of avalanche hazard 🙂 We had a great day and most of the Silver Couloir was amazingly skiable!

The Silver Couloir on July 3, 2008 as viewed from Highway 9 north of Silverthorne

The Silver Couloir on July 3, 2008 as viewed from Highway 9 north of Silverthorne

A younger me, Rainier, & Kona on Buffalo Mountain's summit (12,777')

A younger me, Rainier, & Kona on Buffalo Mountain’s summit (12,777′)

The dogs halfway down the Silver Couloir that hot July day back in 2008

The dogs halfway down the Silver Couloir that hot July day back in 2008

My second outing up and down Buffalo was on March 21, 2009 was with a large crew of great friends, my girlfriend at the time (yes, Kristine), and Rainier & Kona, once again. This trip had more of a winter feel to it considering the colder temperatures and larger snowpack up Buffalo’s standard route and down the couloir.

Buffalo Mountain and its much more filled-in Silver Couloir on March 21, 2009

Buffalo Mountain and its much more filled-in Silver Couloir on March 21, 2009

The conditions in the couloir, however, were not so much fun powder as they were harder recycled powder with a breakable crust in certain sections. I learned a valuable lesson this day and that was to not charge down a couloir, especially not knowing the conditions. During this particular time of day half of the couloir was in the sun and half was in the shade. I charged in the steepest section and laid out a tele turn skidding into the shaded part and hit some icy hardpack and took a tumble. I slid head first for maybe 200 ft before grabbing a rock in the middle of the couloir thereby flipping myself around and stopping myself. I broke a tele leash in the process and my sunglasses slid another 1,500′ down the couloir to the apron below. Quite a rush and nerve-wracking for sure, but I learned so many valuable lessons – another of which was to always ski steeper slopes/couloirs with an ice axe or whippet (ski pole/axe combination). I was definitely much younger, naive, and inexperienced back then and have since learned a lot and gained valuable knowledge with regards to this whole ski-mountaineering activity. And, yes, I ski with a whippet these days.

Baba, me, Andy climbing Buffalo that late March day back in 2009

Ryan “Baba” Aldrich, me, Andy Dionne climbing Buffalo that late March day back in 2009

Caleb & Jennie Wray on Buffalo's summit

Caleb & Jennie Wray on Buffalo’s summit

Chris Carlsen dropping a knee in the upper portion of the Silver Couloir

Chris Carlsen dropping a knee in the upper portion of the Silver Couloir

Kristine telemarking down the Silver

Kristine telemarking down the Silver

Kona and Derek Drechsel in the lower portion of the Silver

Kona and Derek Drechsel in the lower portion of the Silver

Jennie Wray

Jennie Wray

My third time on Buffalo was just yesterday with great friend J Weingast. As he had yet to climb and ski this mountain, the Silver was towards the top of his hit list for the spring and so we went and got it in what may be one of the last weekends of the season it could really be in or for that matter skiable at all. After a cold night and a 7:30am start at the Ryan Gulch trailhead, we took a leisurely pace up the standard Buffalo Cabin trail until we hit snowline at about 10,700′. After my last fumble in the Silver, I definitely wanted to make sure the couloir was properly warmed up enough to allow for soft spring snow conditions and not hardpack ice. We put the skis on our back and booted the rest of the way to Buffalo’s summit up the broad east face.

J on the way up Buffalo's standard route

J on the way up Buffalo’s standard route

After topping out around 10am, the clouds really started to move in over the Gores yet the Tenmile and Sawatch ranges remained sunny to our south. Go figure. Still wanting to wait a bit for the Silver to soften up even more now that the sun was behind whispy clouds, J and I decided to take a fun jaunt over to Buffalo’s southern subsummit dubbed “Sacred Buffalo”. Twenty minutes and a fun little class 3 scramble later we were on Sacred Buffalo. There were definitely snow showers pelting Red Peak to our north and the wind had picked up. This was not the weather I had anticipated nor had been forecasted.

J on his way to Sacred Buffalo

J on his way to Sacred Buffalo

Hmmm....why is there sun over the Sawatch and clouds and snow flurries over us in the Gores :)

Hmmm….why is there sun over the Sawatch and clouds and snow flurries over us in the Gores 🙂

Clouds to the west with Red Buffalo Pass (center) and Red Peak (right) visible

Clouds to the west with Red Buffalo Pass (center) and Red Peak (right) visible

The connecting ridge between Buffalo's true northern summit and the southern Sacred Buffalo subsummit as seen from Sacred Buffalo

The connecting ridge between Buffalo’s true northern summit and the southern Sacred Buffalo subsummit as seen from Sacred Buffalo

Looking down into the Salt Lick Cirque with Silverthorne below

Looking down into the Salt Lick Cirque with Silverthorne and Lake Dillon below

Buffalo Mountain summit (12,777')

Buffalo Mountain summit (12,777′)

Nevertheless, we scrambled back to Buffalo’s true northern summit and decided to go ahead and ski the couloir. Not really wanting to wait around all day for sunny weather, we just decided to go for it and hoped those few hours of early morning direct sunshine warmed the snow up enough for our liking and to make things safe. The top hundred feet of the couloir were pretty firm and I was thinking if the rest of the couloir was like this I would be in trouble. J would be fine because like many of my friends, this guy can ski anything, anytime, anywhere. As if our wish was granted, the snow softened up soon after and good turns ensued for approximately 1,500′ down the couloir.

J beginning the descent of the Silver Couloir

J beginning the descent of the Silver Couloir

And, he is off to the races...

And, he is off to the races…

J in soft snow

J in soft snow

Always having a good time

Always having a good time

Me in the upper portion of the Silver Couloir

Me in the upper portion of the Silver Couloir

Me having fun in the Silver Couloir amidst a scenic backdrop

Me having fun in the Silver Couloir amid a scenic backdrop

The bottom 1,000′ weren’t the best snow conditions – bumpy, dirty, sun-affected, and a few rocks thrown in the mix to dodge around. And, then the couloir’s apron itself was just plain horrible. However, the apron didn’t last long and soon enough we swapped skis and boots for our trail shoes and made our way back to the South Willow Creek trail and then eventually back to my truck at the trailhead around 12:30pm. A fun 5 hours up on Buffalo with J. Its been a fun ride up and down this mountain over the years learning important lessons along the way. If I’m lucky and my timing is right, I do hope to ski the Silver Couloir in powder conditions at some point.

End of the 2014 Spring Ski Season?

Well, both Kristine and myself as well as most of our ski-mountaineering buddies have learned by now to never say “never” when it comes to hanging up the planks for good signaling the end of our spring ski season. Just when you think you are done with ski season, you end up going out again just as Kristine did today on Quandary Peak’s Cristo Couloir with J and the Active Energies group after saying she was done after our ski of Mt. Oklahoma this past Saturday.

The last few days have treated us well with regards to wonderful ski-mountaineering adventures in our hills. A line I try to do every year is 14er Quandary Peak’s South Gully, aka the Cristo Couloir. Its a fantastic 2,500′ line in only a mile topping out at around 40 degrees in steepness. My good friend Mikey was leaving our engineering firm here in the mountains and moving to Denver and wanted to do the Cristo again before he moved to the big city. J joined us as well and in a short and sweet 2 hours we were on top of Quandary basking in the sun and waiting for the sun to soften the Cristo to perfect corn. We waited over an hour on the summit and then dropped in about 10:30am and had an exhilarating ride back down to the Blue Lakes dam hiking back out about 1/4 mile to our cars. Pics of the morning are as follows:

Mikey climbing the Cristo in his new crampon compatible snowboard boots

Mikey climbing the Cristo in his new crampon compatible snowboard boots

Mikey high in the Cristo

Mikey high in the Cristo

Mikey, J, and I on the summit of Quandary enjoying the nice morning

Mikey, J, and I on the summit of Quandary enjoying the nice morning

Mikey ripping the upper couloir

Mikey ripping the upper couloir

J high in the Cristo

J high in the Cristo

No matter how many times we go up and down Quandary, its always a pleasure

No matter how many times we go up and down Quandary, its always a pleasure

J halfway down the gully not really looking at where he is going

J halfway down the gully not really looking at where he is going

Me enjoying my turns

Me enjoying my tele turns. Photo by J

J lower down with Wheeler Peak in the distance

J lower down with Wheeler Mountain in the distance

Mikey

Mikey

Next up Kristine & I left Edwards around 5:30am this past Saturday for the North Halfmoon Creek trailhead behind 14er Mt. Massive arriving at 7am and hiking up the trail to the high centennial 13er Mt. Oklahoma by 7:30am. Despite being a relatively short 7.5 mile roundtrip jaunt up the 3,400′ to Oklahoma’s summit, routefinding and navigational skills were put to the test a bit. Kristine did so well now being 22 weeks pregnant and I am so proud of her. The carrying of ski gear on our backs, river crossings, and bushwhacking definitely got her a bit tired but she persevered on to about 13,100′ until she thought she should go no further not pushing the envelope too much with fatigue and her pregnancy. Despite a 40% chance of thunderstorms in the weather forecast, we had a beautiful morning. I skied down from the summit at about 11am and the snow was just perfect. Kristine was at a rock outcrop at about 13,100′ above the snow-covered headwall and we skied down together from there. It was a great day out together and we were back at the car at about 2pm for a 6 1/2 hour day. Pics of the day are below:

Ski line down the centennial 13er Mt. Oklahoma from the North Halfmoon Creek trail on the way in

Ski line down the centennial 13er Mt. Oklahoma from the North Halfmoon Creek trail on the way in

Summit view to the west

Summit view to the west

Close-up of Grizzly's North Couloir from Oklahoma's summit, which we hope to climb/ski in 2 weeks or so

Close-up of Grizzly’s North Couloir from Oklahoma’s summit, which we hope to climb/ski in 2 weeks or so

Our beloved Gores in the distance

Our beloved Gores in the distance

Mt. Oklahoma summit (13,845')

Mt. Oklahoma summit (13,845′)

Time to ski

Time to ski

My tracks down the awesome low-angle upper 800' of Oklahoma from the summit

My tracks down the awesome low-angle upper 800′ of Oklahoma from the summit

Kristine in great form on the steeper headwall

Kristine in great form on the steeper headwall

Kristine enjoying the turns

Kristine enjoying the turns

Skiing into the high basin

Skiing into the high basin

Our turns down from 13,100' to the high basin

Our turns down from 13,100′ to the high basin

About 7 hours after Kristine and I returned home to Edwards, J and I left for the Leadville area again not really certain on which peak we wanted to hit. We were thinking about Grizzly Peak’s North Couloir, but the Lincoln Creek road was not open yet making for a 12 mile RT day with 5,200′ of elevation gain all above treeline from Independence Pass. With the imposing 50% chance of thunderstorms and snow showers all day, this was probably not a smart idea nor would be all that much fun. Also, my friend Natalie was now going for Oklahoma as they had had a big day up on Castle Peak and wanted something a bit shorter. We were trying to think of a car-camping place on the east side of Independence Pass along Highway 82 when I suggested the Willis Gulch trailhead which leads to the high centennial 13er Mt. Hope. Voila! We will go for the classic Hopeful Couloir on Mt. Hope. This sounded like a better plan as it allowed us to much more easily escape to the cover of treeline should weather roll in. Nevertheless, it was still almost the same stats as Grizzly from Independence Pass at about 11.5 miles RT with 4,700′ of elevation gain. After one of the best night’s sleep I have had in the back of my truck with the tailgate down and the roaring waters of Lake Creek 15 yards away, J and I were off trucking up the Willis Gulch trail around 5:45am in our trail shoes with all our ski gear on our packs. Not knowing where snowline may occur in this north facing gulch, we were prepared to be carrying our gear for a long ways.

On the approach up Willis Gulch to Mt. Hope. J loves old mining cabins

On the approach up Willis Gulch to Mt. Hope. J loves old mining cabins

The miles and vertical went fast though and we were at the base of the Hopeful Couloir at about 11,800′ in about 2.5 hours.The Willis Gulch and then Little Willis Gulch trails are good trails and easy to follow until we got into upper Little Willis Gulch where a few snow drifts prompted some route-finding.

The Hopeful Couloir on Mt. Hope in the morning fog

The Hopeful Couloir on Mt. Hope in the morning fog

The Hopeful Couloir from 11,800' at its base

The Hopeful Couloir from 11,800′ at its base

Never donning our skins on our skis, at the base of the couloir we switched trail shoes for ski boots and crampons and away we went booting straight up the Hopeful Couloir. It was a fun climb, a little mushy here and there, but overall good kick-stepping in decent snow. The 2,000′ couloir angle averages around 36 degrees but tops out closer to 50 degrees near the top.

J showing some leg :)

J showing some leg 🙂

In the middle of the Hopeful

In the middle of the Hopeful

J climbing the Hopeful

J climbing the Hopeful

Steepening a bit

Steepening a bit

Fun climbing and the weather was holding for the time being

Fun climbing and the weather was holding for the time being

Me climbing up and up

Me climbing up and up

J in the upper section of the couloir

J in the upper section of the couloir

From about 13,800′ at the top of the couloir, we stayed in our crampons and hiked the remaining vertical and distance to Hope’s true summit arriving around 10am.

J on Mt. Hope's summit ridge with some nasty looking weather behind over Twin Lakes to the north

J on Mt. Hope’s summit ridge with some nasty looking weather behind over Twin Lakes to the north

Mt. Elbert to the north from Hope's summit

Mt. Elbert to the north from Hope’s summit

Summit of Mt. Hope (13,933')

Summit of Mt. Hope (13,933′)

Storms over the Belford Group to the south

Storms over the Belford Group to the south

Weather was really building all around us, but Hope’s summit remained clear, sunny, and nice. We only stayed up on the summit for 15 minutes or so and man I am sure glad we did. If we had stayed up there 10 or even 5 minutes longer, we would have gotten thundered and graupeled on while skiing the couloir. We skied down the summit ridge to the steeper Hopeful Couloir descent option (skier’s left) and dropped in on 50 degree terrain only for 100 ft or so (thank goodness!).

Skiing down the summit ridge to the top of the Hopeful Couloir

Skiing down the summit ridge to the top of the Hopeful Couloir

J dropping in

J dropping in

J ripping turns

J ripping turns…

With a gorgeous backdrop

…with a gorgeous backdrop

The ski down really was fun on mostly creamy corn snow

The ski down really was fun on mostly creamy corn snow

I like this one of J

I like this one of J

The couloir’s slope angle mellowed out to the 40s and then eventually higher 30s further down. J ripped every turn as usual while I did my best of my teles – I think I did alright. I felt pretty good about it. The snow got a little chunkier towards the bottom from the avalanche debris but overall we timed this ski descent pretty spot on as the snow was nice and soft the entire way down.

J skiing Hopeful with Twin Lakes beyond

J skiing Hopeful with Twin Lakes beyond

So scenic

So scenic

Looking down on J skiing

Looking down on J skiing

A nice perch, buddy

A nice perch, buddy

J lower down in the couloir

J lower down in the couloir

And out...

And out…

Thanks to J’s GoPro footage on his descent of the Hopeful, I put together a fun little video to the tune of my favorite song called Promentory from the soundtrack to Last of the Mohicans (be sure to turn the 1080p HD on):

Just as we skied down below Hope Lake and beyond to treeline, the god of thunder let us know just how insignificant we all are and graupel fell from the heavens at an alarming rate. It actually felt pretty good as long as it didn’t hail and we felt safer now that we were not so high on the mountain and at treeline. Again, the skis and boots went on our packs and we cruised on out of there down Little Willis Gulch in our trail runners.

Mt. Hope and the Hopeful Couloir on the way out

Mt. Hope and the Hopeful Couloir on the way out

We got a little wet on the hike out, but arrived safe and sound back at my truck around 1:45pm for a wonderful 7 hour day up on Hope.

The Hopeful Couloir  shown here in red from Twin Lakes. Mt. Hope's summit is clouded over

The Hopeful Couloir shown here in red from Twin Lakes. Mt. Hope’s summit is clouded over

This spring ski-mountaineering thing sure does allow for some awesome days in the hills. I will be sad when the snow recedes to the point of it not being worthwhile at all to bring ski gear anymore. But, that just means the transition to full-on summer with scrambling in our Gores, rock climbing, and trail running. Not bad at all. However, I just have a hunch that the 2014 spring ski-mountaineering season isn’t quite over. But, that’s just me.

Skiing the Geisslers

I just love spring skiing. Even with the amount of snow we have had this season up to about two weeks ago, the warm temps all last week have put a serious hurting on our snowpack. However, I still think we have a few weekends left yet for some decent lines and spring ski tours.The temps this past weekend were very warm as well not even allowing the snowpack to freeze at night. This typical nightly freeze allows for a safer spring freeze-thaw corn cycle during the morning hours when one would want to ski steeper lines and couloirs.

Having been under the weather all week, I still felt like getting out for a shorter ski tour. So, on Saturday my good bud Mikey and I went and checked out the snowpack on the familiar terrain up on Uneva Peak north of Vail Pass. Any time we can skin from the car is worth it in my eyes. We ended up skiing a steeper gully off Uneva’s south side into the western of the two Uneva bowls, one we rarely venture to during the winter because of the steeper slopes and greater chance for avalanche activity.

Looking down our little gully line into Uneva's western bowl

Looking down our little gully line into Uneva’s western bowl

Mikey in the gully

Mikey starting down the gully

Skiing the gully

Skiing the gully

It was a fun albeit short gully down to the dirt-ridden bowl from which we skinned back up to the ridge and skied down the mellower eastern Uneva bowl, which we typically ski several times a year.

Our tracks down the gully

Our tracks down the gully

Our line shown in red down the gully to the western Uneva bowl

Our line shown in red down the gully to the western Uneva bowl

Mikey skinning back to the ridge

Mikey skinning back to the ridge

Storm over the Tenmile Range

Storm over the Tenmile Range

View west to Mt. of the Holy Cross and its Cross Couloir, which good friends J, Derek, & Brett were skiing the next day. Wish I could have joined them, but being sick all week definitely didn't put me in prime form for a 30 mile roundtrip expedition. Hopefully, I can get it in a  few weeks when Tigiwon Road opens

View west to Mt. of the Holy Cross and its Cross Couloir, which good friends J, Derek, & Brett were skiing the next day. Wish I could have joined them, but being sick all week definitely didn’t put me in prime form for a 30 mile roundtrip expedition. Hopefully, I can get it in a few weeks when Tigiwon Road opens

And, the very mellow eastern Uneva bowl we skied out

And, the very mellow eastern Uneva bowl we skied out

We were initially thinking of skiing down the north side of the peak, but there was so much avalanche debris and fairly significant cornices, it didn’t look all that safe nor all that fun. A nice 3 hour roundtrip tour up on Uneva was just what the doctor ordered and I felt a lot better afterwards.

A few hour later Kristine, Mikey, and I headed down south of Leadville to camp along County Road 390 at a 14ers.com spring gathering in hopes of skiing the Hopeful Couloir on the high centennial 13er Mt. Hope on Sunday. We found our friends Shawn, Jenn, & canine Fitzy in the dark and met up with friend Natalie who wanted to ski Hope with us the next day. However, after learning of the recent  Hopeful Couloir beta (runnels and avalanche debris) and the non-freezing nature of the snowpack at night, we decided to turn our efforts to Independence Pass and the two 13ers, East & West Geissler Peaks, were at the top of the list. This ski tour of the Geisslers is a local Aspen favorite and is featured in my friends’ Ben & Brian’s new book Climbing and Skiing Colorado’s Mountains: 50 Select Ski Descents. Upon leaving camp around 6am the next morning, we drove up to the top of Indy Pass and down to the Highway 82 pull-off 1.8 miles west of the top of the pass. The weather was really not what was forecasted (sunny and bluebird). It was lightly snowing, the wind was blowing, and extremely overcast. There was even the occasional group that was coming back to the cars after having skinned up the valley for 20 minutes who said they were going for a bike ride instead. Nevertheless, we’ve hardly ever experienced a day in Colorado that is forecasted to be beautiful but never turns bluebird and sunny. As fortune would have it, the sun came out and the clouds parted about 45 minutes later much to all of our relief.

Skinning up the gulch towards Independence Lake. East Geissler's south face looms above

Skinning up the gulch towards Independence Lake. East Geissler’s south face looms above

Shawn, Jenn, & Mike with East Geissler

Shawn, Jenn, & Mike with East Geissler

These peaks really are “skier” peaks. So very accessible (when Independence Pass is open) and plenty of skiing can be had from steeper lines to more manageable 35 degree terrain. We decided to go for West Geissler first as the line we would ski is more east facing and would likely soften up first with the morning rays of sun. Kristine, being about 5 months pregnant now, did absolutely amazing and is such a trooper. Everyone was in awe that she was able to climb and ski two 13ers this day. Kudos to her for still wanting to get out and do these kinds of trips all the while growing another human being inside her belly. Amazing, really.

Kristine skinning along with Grizzly Peak A's north couloir in the distance

Kristine skinning along with Grizzly Peak A’s north couloir in the distance

Kristine climbing West Geissler's east ridge with East Geissler, our next objective, behind

Kristine climbing West Geissler’s east ridge with East Geissler, our next objective, behind

Kristine

Kristine

Kristine & I booting up West Geissler. Photo by Natalie

Kristine & I booting up West Geissler. Photo by Natalie

West Geissler summit ridge

West Geissler summit ridge

It was a nice morning skin to the saddle between the two Geisslers and then a straightforward bootpack up West Geissler’s east ridge to its summit. It really turned out to be a gorgeous day.

Kristine & I on the summit of West Geissler Peak (13,301')

Kristine & I on the summit of West Geissler Peak (13,301′)

Mt. Sopris

Mt. Sopris

The Elk Range

The Elk Range

Lookin' good!

Lookin’ good!

Natalie and new acquaintance Otina decided to ski the much steeper 50+ degree line directly off the summit while the rest of us (having not brought helmets or whippets and my wife being 5 months pregnant) elected to ski the mellower sub 40 degree east-facing slopes after a short ski traverse. It was a fun ski line and the snow was pretty good and soft after a few turns down.

Shawn, Jenn, Mike, & Fitzy at the top of our ski line

Shawn, Jenn, Mike, & Fitzy at the top of our ski line

Shawn & Fitzy skiing West Geissler's east face

Shawn & Fitzy skiing West Geissler’s east face

Kristine enjoying the fun day

Kristine enjoying the fun day

We quickly skied over to the base of East Geissler and began laying down a skin track up its mid 30 degree south face. By this time, the crowds certainly started showing up and I bet at one time there was 20-30 people climbing & skiing East Geissler.

Shawn & Jenn traversing over from West Giessler (behind) to begin the skin up East Geissler

Shawn & Jenn traversing over from West Geissler (behind) to begin the skin up East Geissler

The crew skinning up the south face of East Geissler

The crew skinning up the south face of East Geissler

We topped out maybe around 11am and enjoyed the sunshine and views despite a semi-stiff breeze.

View to West Geissler from East Geissler's summit

View to West Geissler from East Geissler’s summit

Summit of East Geissler Peak (13,380')

Summit of East Geissler Peak (13,380′)

Chalks on East Geissler

Chalks on East Geissler

After a few photos we strapped in and skied far skier’s left down the south face of East Geissler where there were no previous ski tracks that day.

Looking down our line off East Geissler. Photo by Natalie

Looking down our line off East Geissler. Photo by Natalie

Me skiing down the face. Thanks to Kristine for the pics

Me skiing down the face. Thanks to Kristine for the pics

So fun

So fun

Loving life!

Loving life!

Sorry, one more of me :)

Sorry, one more of me 🙂

Natalie

Natalie

Jenn

Jenn

Shawn & Fitzy

Shawn & Fitzy

Otina

Otina

East Geissler's south face

East Geissler’s south face

On the ski out the gulch our ascent line shown in red and ski descent in blue could be seen on West Geissler

On the ski out the gulch our ascent line shown in red and ski descent in blue could be seen on West Geissler

This was really just plain fun skiing and we all skied about 1,200′ down to Independence Lake from where we skied out the gulch back to the cars. The dirt layer was pretty significant in the basin and on several aspects, but we were able to avoid it for the most part on the actual skis themselves.

Kristine on the ski out with the Geisslers behind

Kristine on the ski out with the Geisslers behind

Back at the cars around 12:30pm, we packed up and headed back home to grab the dogs from our friend Kathryn. A great morning out for us on some new terrain with a good crew. I, for one, am so proud of Kristine and feel so fortunate to be able to do what we love together even while pregnant. Here’s a to a few more weeks of spring ski-mountaineering season!

Spring on Pettingell Peak

Well, it seemed like spring was never going to arrive, especially on the weekends as snow and rain storms seem to come in about every weekend. But, last Sunday was more like the spring-type conditions for corn skiing we are used to seeing this time of year. It was hot and sunny most of the day (I think Denver even reached into the 80s) and so we probably should have been skiing earlier than we did. Nonetheless it was a super fun day with Kristine, Shawn, Mike, and the dogs (Kona, Fitzy, & our adopted dog for the day, Gus) on some new terrain for all of us. I rarely venture east of Eisenhower Tunnel (except to go to DIA or some special event), but the ski of the 13er Pettingell Peak was worth the short drive east of the Continental Divide.

Mike, Shawn, & Kristine skinning up Herman Gulch. Pettingell Peak looms in the distance

Mike, Shawn, & Kristine skinning up Herman Gulch. Pettingell Peak looms in the distance

Our plan was to park at the very accessible Herman Gulch trailhead and skin the 3.5 miles or so up Herman Gulch and see what we see. There was the prominent peak dubbed The Citadel (13,294′) with its steeper east-facing chute known as Snoopy’s Backside Chute rocketing down between its two summits. We saw several parties trying to climb this chute, but all made the smart decision of aborting the climb due to wet-slide activity from the snow that fell the previous few days.

The Citadel (13,294') as seen from upper Herman Gulch. Two parties can be seen - one down lower in the center of the photo and another traversing towards Snoppy's Backside Chute

The Citadel (13,294′) as seen from upper Herman Gulch. Two parties can be seen – one down lower in the center of the photo and another traversing towards Snoopy’s Backside Chute

Then there was also the mellower southeast slopes of the highest 13er in the area, Pettingell Peak, that looked pretty fun and safe from any wet-slide activity. It was an absolutely gorgeous day to be up high and because of all the noticeable wet-slide activity on the steeper slopes over maybe 35 degrees, we chose to continue on up Pettingell. We left the Herman Gulch trailhead around 8:15am, shouldered our skis for only a half mile, and then started skinning up the beautiful Herman Gulch on a well-groomed skin track.

It was a special day not only because it finally felt like spring skiing, but also because Kristine and I were so very pleased and proud of her performance up to 13,553′ being 19 weeks pregnant! Yep, as we’re not ones to send out mass emails announcing our pregnancy and I’m not even on facebook to post everything that goes on in our lives, but we’ve just told people over the past few weeks as we’d normally strike up conversations with friends. However, I guess its about time we put it in writing at least. Baby Chalk is a boy and is due October 12 and we couldn’t be more excited! Despite being a bit more tired and winded than normal and the fact that she is carrying another human being, Kristine has been doing superb in the hills. We’ve figured out a good night’s sleep the night before is more key to a better day in the mountains than anything for her during this pregnancy. So, Kristine would want me to say that when you see her in these pictures please do not think she is just getting fat. She is pregnant.

Kristine skinning up to Herman lake with Herman Gulch behind her

Kristine skinning up to Herman Lake with Herman Gulch behind her

Kona and the southeast face of Pettingell

Kona and the southeast face of Pettingell

The crew skinning up to Herman Lake, which drops a few hundred feet beyond the next rise

The crew skinning up to Herman Lake, which drops a few hundred feet beyond the next rise

Anyway, we made our way up to the frozen and snow-covered Herman Lake at around 12,000′ and put together our remaining route up the southeast flanks of Pettingell. We were able to lay a zig-zag skin track up a steeper chute right above the lake and then it was mellow skinning up and up to about 300′ below the summit ridge. We then again set a zig-zag skin track to the ridge from where it was only 50 yards to the summit.

Gus observing Shawn, Mike, & Kristine below skinning up to the ridge

Gus observing Shawn, Mike, & Kristine below skinning up to the ridge

Shawn & Fitzy on the summit ridge

Shawn & Fitzy on the summit ridge

The Gus Dog

The Gus Dog

Kristine on the summit ridge

Kristine on the summit ridge

A nice fellow named Rob from Boulder was on the summit when we reached it as he had taken the more normal path to the summit via the west ridge. It was a bit windy on the summit but overall very nice.

Kona peering down Pettingell's north side

Kona peering down Pettingell’s north side

The Silverthorne Massif in the Gores with (left to right) East Thorn, Mt. Silverthorne, & Rain Peak, which we skied the weekend before

The Silverthorne Massif in the Gores (center of photo). Left to right: East Thorn, Mt. Silverthorne, & Rain Peak, which we skied the weekend before. Zodiac Ridge can be seen to looker’s left of East Thorn as well as Mt. Valhalla’s two awesome east ridges to looker’s right of Rain Peak

Buffalo Mountain and its northern Silver Couloir looking very "in". Mt. of the Holy Cross in the far distance

Buffalo Mountain and its northern Silver Couloir looking very “in”. Mt. of the Holy Cross in the far distance

Pettingell Peak summit (13,553')

Pettingell Peak summit (13,553′)

Kristine & Kona on top

Kristine & Kona on top

The Chalks (minus a Rainier) on Pettingell's summit

The Chalks (minus a Rainier) on Pettingell’s summit

As the southeast face was baking, we swapped into ski mode fast and began our descent. I believe we started skiing down at around noon, which was a bit late for this hot and sunny day as the snow was pretty soft and grabby. Yet, it was still a very fun ski.

Shawn and Fitzy dropping off the summit

Shawn and Fitzy dropping off the summit

Shawn & Fitzy and a gorgeous backdrop

Shawn & Fitzy and a gorgeous backdrop

IMG_1538

Even though still a young pup, Fitzy will be a great ski-mountaineering dog

Shawn & Fitzy lower down on the southeast face

Shawn & Fitzy lower down on the southeast face

Mikey and his tele turn

Mikey and his tele turn

Kristine in great form

Kristine in great form

Kristine & Kona almost back down to Herman Lake

Kristine & Kona almost back down to Herman Lake

The dogs were pretty hot and panting pretty good, so we stopped a lot on the descent for them to catch their breath and cool down. We observed a few larger wet slides come down on the surrounding steeper terrain on our descent, but they stayed clear of us. We skated across Herman Lake and down to the valley to pick up the well-trodden skin track.

Kristine skinning across Herman Lake. A few wet-slides came down on the steeper faces behind her as we skied down the southeast face

Kristine skinning across Herman Lake. A few wet-slides came down on the steeper faces behind her as we skied down the southeast face

Shawn & Fitzy

Shawn & Fitzy

After a bit of lunch and a good rest for the dogs, we took our time skinning and skiing out the 3.5 miles to the trailhead.

Kristine, Mike, & Shawn on the ski out Herman Gulch with our route up/down Pettingell's southeast face in red behind

Kristine, Mike, & Shawn on the ski out Herman Gulch with our route up/down Pettingell’s southeast face shown in red behind

We arrived back at the cars at about 1:45pm and were soon on our way since we left Rainier at home. Total stats for Pettingell from Herman Gulch trailhead is about 9 miles roundtrip with 3,300′ of vertical gain. It was a great day on some new terrain for us. We will definitely be visiting the peaks of Herman Gulch for years to come.

Rain Peak & The Graupel Gully

It was fitting that we climbed Rain Peak on a rainy weekend around the state and skied its Graupel Gully while being pelted with graupel from the stormy skies above.

Rain is an elusive 13er in the Gores that is actually more difficult to see from roads/highways as well as from other Gore summits. Its shape doesn’t stand out as say Mt. Valhalla, Peak Q, or even Mt. Powell. Rain sort of blends into the connecting ridge with the Silverthorne massif and Mt. Silverthorne. Nevertheless, Rain has all the makings of a classic Gore peak – a lengthy approach, a class 3/4 west ridge to its summit, a near vertical west face, a very steep north face, and some interesting ski lines on its southeast face with the prominent couloir from the summit dubbed the Graupel Gully. The weakness in attaining Rain’s summit is its east ridge and while mellow, it sure is indeed lengthy. I think we estimated the total stats for the day were about 15 miles and 4,500′ roundtrip from the Willowbrook trailhead in Silverthorne. Brian Miller was already planning on Rain for Saturday with his buddy Marc Barella as the weather window for the entire weekend looked to be Saturday morning up until about mid-day. Then, the snow squalls would start with hopefully nothing heavy until Saturday evening. I had never met Marc before (though we traded a few emails about he and Carl’s trip to Mont Blanc), but it was great to spend the day with him in the Gores and I would think this day would be great training for his upcoming trip to Denali. Plus, Marc had just finished snowboarding all the the 14ers, which is a heck of an accomplishment, but it was about time he get on some 13ers. Ben Conners & Rick Thompson switched their plans for skiing Cathedral Peak near Aspen to Rain (weather in the Elks looked to be even worse than the Gores) and J and I jumped on board to round out the team of six. Even in less than ideal weather, I’d rather be in the Gores than anywhere else and with all of us having never climbed Rain Peak before (except for Brian), we were excited to see what adventure we could get ourselves into.

We all got to the Willowbrook trailhead at around 6:45am and were booting up the North Willow Creek trail, which had a few fresh inches of snow, at around 7am. After about 30 minutes, we slapped the skins and skin on as the snow appeared to be consistent enough to warrant not carrying our skis anymore. Now the skinning wasn’t exactly easy. We were taking turns breaking trail in very heavy, sloppy snow that globbed onto the bottom of our skins every chance it got. The heavy snow was definitely taxing on my quads. Add to that we lost the trail for a long while and some interesting skinning ensued around, over, and through deadfall, side hilling over rocks and tree trunks, and about every other kind of obstacle you can imagine in the woods. It took awhile. We finally found a trail of sorts that led up to the east ridge and took it. From the east ridge (though still in the trees), we knew if we stayed on the ridge crest we would eventually break out of treeline and be on Rain Peak’s east ridge proper. We could actually make out Rain Peak in the distance through the trees, which definitely helped to keep us motivated.

Rain Peak finally shows its face through the trees

Rain Peak finally shows its face through the trees

It was hours upon hours of breaking trail in the freshly fallen wet snow below treeline, but we finally got the views we came for as we crested treeline. Across the valley to the south was the absolutely stunning What Big Eyes You Have Couloir off of East East Red Peak which Ben & Brian had skied a year prior and was featured as one of their fifty class ski lines in their awesome book Climbing and Skiing Colorado’s Mountain: 50 Select Ski Descents.

The absolutely stunning What Big Eyes You Have Couloir on East East Red Peak to the south

The absolutely stunning What Big Eyes You Have Couloir on East East Red Peak to the south

East East Red Peak and What Big Eyes You Have Couloir. Photo by Brian

East East Red Peak and What Big Eyes You Have Couloir. Photo by Brian

It was great to see such a stellar line up close and personal, though it was a bit intimidating. It looked steep, but then again everything does head-on. The weather was really holding for us and the sun was out. We continued the long skin up, up, and away.

J and Marc above treeline looking back to the east

J and Marc above treeline looking back to the east

J and I skinning along with What Big Eyes You Have Couloir looking on. Photo by Brian

J and I skinning along with What Big Eyes You Have Couloir looking on. Photo by Brian

Me plugging away up Rain's east ridge

Me plugging away up Rain’s east ridge

We could feel Rain getting closer and closer though we still had maybe 1,500′ and 2 miles to go to its summit.

Ben & Rick breaking trail up Rain's east ridge

Ben & Rick breaking trail up Rain’s east ridge

Skinning up Rain's east ridge

Skinning up Rain’s east ridge

The mighty East Thorn was always standing guard to the south (by the way, a great looking couloir there)

The mighty East Thorn was always standing guard to the south (by the way, a great looking couloir there)

Rick motoring ahead

Rick motoring ahead

It was getting closer to noon and the good weather window was starting to collapse.

The remaining route up to Rain's summit

The remaining route up to Rain’s summit

Ben and crew full steam ahead

Ben and crew full steam ahead

We finally crested Rain’s summit ridge and made a beeline for its summit trying to beat the incoming snow squalls and wind.

Left to right: Rick, Ben, & J making their way up to the summit

Left to right: Rick, Ben, & J making their way up to the summit

Deteriorating weather

Deteriorating weather

Brian still loving life in the Gores

Even after all of these years of Gore adventuring, Brian still is lovin’ life in this range

We topped out around 1pm in cold and windy weather with a bit of snow. Thankfully, the visibility was still decent and the actual air temperature wasn’t too cold. Rain Peak seemed to have two distinct high points and the southern point seemed to be higher. Everyone then proceeded to scramble over to the southern summit except for Brian. He seemed to know better.

Scrambling to Rain's southern summit

Scrambling to Rain’s southern summit

J on Rain's southern summit with Mt. Silverthorne (right) & East Thorn (left) behind

J on Rain’s southern summit with Mt. Silverthorne (right) & East Thorn (left) behind

The five of us on Rain's southern summit. Photo by Brian

The five of us on Rain’s southern summit. Photo by Brian

The five of us up close on Rain's southern summit

The five of us up close on Rain’s southern summit

When we arrived at the southern summit and looked back at Brian he definitely seemed higher than us on the north summit. Yep, he definitely knew better. I’m sure he was saying in his head, “Bunch of silly gapers I’m with here”. So, we scrambled back to the north summit, enjoyed the views in deteriorating weather, and shot some pics.

The six of us on Rain Peak's true northern summit (13,130'). Marc (far left) looks like a ninja

The six of us on Rain Peak’s true northern summit (13,130′). Marc (far left) looks like a ninja

J and I on a new Gore summit for us

J and I on a new Gore summit for us

Mt. Valhalla in low visibility from Rain's summit with its two east ridges trending down and right in the picture. Asgard Ridge is the right (northern) of the two east ridges

Mt. Valhalla in low visibility from Rain’s summit with its two east ridges trending down and right in the picture. Asgard Ridge is the right (northern) of the two east ridges

Time to roll

Time to roll

We then stripped the skins, stepped into our respective ski/board setups, and got out of there. There were a few gullies to choose from, and while the easternmost gully looked mighty fine for a ski, we all descended the steepest gully right off the summit cap. This gully was probably the Graupel Gully anyway, so I’m glad we skied the steeper line. Brian & I skied down a bit to take pics of the others.

The boys ready to drop off Rain's summit

The boys ready to drop off Rain’s summit

J off the top

J off the top

Ben slashing his way through the variable snow

Ben slashing his way through the variable snow

As far as the snow was concerned, well it could have been worse and it could have been better. There was probably close to a foot of fresh powder in the gully and the sun all morning had warmed up the top inch or so. With the incoming weather and clouds, that same top layer had solidified making for some interesting slab skiing. It would have almost been better had the sun not come out at all the entire morning. Then, at least maybe there would have not been that top slab above 6-8″ of powder. The rest of the fellas seemed to blow through this slab seemingly effortlessly, while me and my teles got pushed around quite a bit. It was tough skiing for me. I hate having to resort to alpine turns, but I certainly had to in order to not fall on the relatively steep terrain much less break my leg. We also had to be a bit careful with regards to avalanche conditions as that top slab was moving a bit. Nevertheless, it was an awesome setting and the weather got better as we descended. Because we were skiing the Graupel Gully, we almost didn’t mind that it was graupelling on us the entire way down. Some ski shots:

Brian shooting me shooting J skiing the Graupel Gully with East Thorn rising in the distance

Brian shooting me shooting J skiing the Graupel Gully with East Thorn rising in the distance

J skiing The Graupel Gully

J skiing The Graupel Gully

Marc

Marc

Rick

Rick

The Graupel Gully is definitely an aesthetic line

The Graupel Gully is definitely an aesthetic line

Brian

Brian

Ben

Ben

Halfway down the Graupel Gully and all smiles

J, Marc, & Rick (Ben is much further down) about halfway down the Graupel Gully and all smiles. We went skier’s left of this snow ridge from here on down to Salmon Lake

We eventually made it down to the frozen Salmon Lake at the base of East Thorn, had something to eat and drink, and regrouped.

Ben at Salmon Lake on the way out with Rain Peak's southeast face behind

Ben at Salmon Lake on the way out with Rain Peak’s southeast face behind

Our ascent up the east ridge in purple and ski down the Graupel Gully in red as seen from Salmon Lake

Our ascent up the east ridge in purple and ski down the Graupel Gully in red as seen from Salmon Lake

Our plan was to essentially ski out North Willow Creek down from Salmon Lake back to the trailhead. Ben & Brian had essentially done this from maybe a mile down from Salmon Lake after skiing Big Eyes Couloir last year and said it worked out pretty well with only a few sections of uphill. Brian certainly made it easy for the rest of us plowing the way in the wet sticky snow. I can say now I trust Mr. Miller’s navigational expertise in the woods. J and I were dreading the ski out in the North Willow Creek drainage, but it actually ended up being more downhill than we thought. Brian did a stellar job of getting us back to the North Willow Creek trail from which we began to hike down in our ski boots once again for the last 45 minutes finally arriving back at the Willowbrook trailhead around 4:15pm.

Despite the not so awesome weather and snow conditions for skiing, it was a great day out in the Gores with a truly solid group of guys. I think we were all a bit beat after this one and sleeping in Sunday and drinking coffee until noon definitely felt good.