Dallas Peak

This past weekend Kristine, Rainier, Kona, and I jetted on down to one of our favorite places for the July 4th festivities: Telluride. A few weeks prior, a climbing acquaintance who had hiked Culebra with J and I in the winter of 2013, Jed Flint, had noted he was wanting to climb the high centennial 13er Dallas Peak at 13,809′, which is actually 100th on the centennial list by elevation, on that Saturday, July 5th. Wanting to climb something that same Saturday and as I had never climbed Dallas, we joined forces to make it happen. Over the past 16 years I had climbed many of the 12ers, 13ers, and 14ers surrounding Telluride, but Dallas had always remained that elusive peak that I had just never given much thought to climbing. However, realizing that it is one of the tougher centennial peaks, has a 5.3 summit pitch, and a rappel, it all sounded like a lot of fun. Also, I have sort of been getting into the centennials this past year whether skiing, hiking, or climbing them and Dallas seemed interesting and a nice fit for the weekend.

At 26 weeks pregnant with out little gal, Kristine is still doing so well and getting outdoors a bunch. We slept in Friday morning, enjoyed the fantastic Telluride 4th of July parade on Main Street, and then took the dogs hiking up the familiar Bear Creek trail to Bear Creek Falls. Our good friends, Betsy & Lee Hoffman, and their boys came over to watch the awesome firework spectacle that evening from the in-town deck of my aunt Evon’s condo.

Bear Creek Falls

Bear Creek Falls

Telluride fireworks lighting up the box canyon

Telluride fireworks lighting up the box canyon

It was a spectacle

It was a spectacle…

...and very loud, which scared the dogs quite a bit

…and very loud, which scared the dogs quite a bit

Up at 3am, I got my gear together and headed to the Mill Creek trailhead to meet up with Jed as well as two other climbers, Kelly & Jim, who had joined our little crew. We got on the trail under headlamp around 4:15am or thereabouts. As the weather forecast called for thunderstorms starting to build at 9am, we thought it prudent for a very early start.

It was fun meeting new folks and hiking with a different crew. Its quite a lengthy approach to treeline, but all on the great Deep Creek and Sneffels Highline trails. After first light and breaking out of treeline, Dallas’s intimidating fortress-like south face came into view.

Dallas's south face

Dallas’s south face

Dawn on the Wilsons & Lizard Head to the south

Dawn on the Wilsons & Lizard Head to the south

The tops of the Telluride ski mountain and surrounding peaks waking up

The tops of the Telluride ski mountain and surrounding peaks waking up

We took a variation to attaining the south face slopes via a grassy rib, which worked out pretty well in lieu of the loose talus that leads up to the cliffs.

Jim & Kelly making their way up the grassy rib after leaving the Sneffels Highline trail

Jim & Kelly making their way up the grassy rib after leaving the Sneffels Highline trail

From the top of the grassy rib we traversed onto steep loose scree-covered slabs and then up to the base of the class 3 weakness through the lower cliff band.

The steep, loose, scree-covered slabs up to the lower cliff band on Dallas' south face

The steep, loose, scree-covered slabs up to the lower cliff band on Dallas’ south face

A hundred or so feet of class 3 scrambling dumped us out on a climber’s trail up through the steep talus leading northeast around to Dallas’ east face. Route-finding was fairly straightforward switching from the south to east faces and we made our way up via ledges to the first fun class 4 section.

Jed on the climber's trail above the lower cliff band

Jed on the climber’s trail above the lower cliff band

Dallas's upper east slopes and the summit tower

Dallas’s upper east slopes and the summit tower

Kelly & Jed on a nice perch

Kelly & Jed on a nice perch

Sand-castle looking towers on Dallas' east ridge with Sneffels looking large in the distance

Sand-castle looking towers on Dallas’ east ridge with Sneffels looking large in the distance

The summit tower of Dallas now came into view. The weather was absolutely gorgeous and it was still very early in the morning. The rock was fairly solid for this short section of class 4 and we all made quick work of this fun pitch.

Jed all smiles starting the class 4 pitch

Jed all smiles starting the class 4 pitch

Kelly & Jim making their way up the class 4 section

Kelly & Jim making their way up the class 4 section

This first class 4 section is fairly exposed yet very solid

This first class 4 section is fairly exposed yet very solid

Easier class 2 terrain remained up to the base of the second class 4 chimney to gain the ledges of the north face.

Mellow terrain up to the base of the class 4 chimney (first gully to the right of the one with snow)

Mellow terrain up to the base of the class 4 chimney, which is the dry gully leading to the 2nd notch to the right of the summit tower in the center of the picture

I believe we all thought the moves up this next class 4 chimney were low 5th class and the crux of the entire route in terms of technical maneuvering. Nevertheless, it was all in good fun and we reached the notch at the top of the chimney where there were slings in place in case climbers needed to rappel the chimney. The position at this notch was spectacular.

The class 4 chimney was mostly snow-free

The class 4 chimney was mostly snow-free

Jed, Kelly, & Jim working the chimney

Jed, Kelly, & Jim working the chimney

Kelly & Jim in the class 4 chimney

Kelly & Jim in the class 4 chimney

Jim at the notch before the ledge traverse on the north face

Jim at the notch before the ledge traverse on the north face with Teakettle behind and Uncompahgre & Wetterhorn even further in the distance

A short traverse on the steep north-facing ledges led to the base of the 90′ 5.3 summit pitch. We all geared up, I donned my microspikes and my rack, and Jim put me on belay. The first 10′ or so of the summit pitch was steep snow so thanks to Kelly’s snow picket, I was able to place this as a first piece of protection. I then was able to get on the rock, take my spikes off, and place a 0.75 cam to protect the 5.3 crux. Above the crux was mostly 4th class and I didn’t feel the need to place another piece of gear until I reached the nice, large black sling slung around a summit rock.

Me starting up the summit pitch. Photo by Kelly

Me starting up the summit pitch. Photo by Kelly

Me getting to the dry rock on the summit pitch

Me getting to the dry rock on the summit pitch. Photo by Kelly

The crux section of the summit pitch

The crux section of the summit pitch. Photo by Kelly

I had brought my two 8mm/30m ropes and these worked perfectly for all four of us. Jed, Kelly, and Jim tied into the ropes and essentially simul-climbed on my belay up the final pitch.

Jed coming up the top portion of the summit pitch

Jed coming up the top portion of the summit pitch

Jed

Jed

Everyone made short-work of the final pitch and soon we were all on the summit of Dallas Peak around 9:15am under a blue-bird, sunny morning sky. I texted Kristine that we were on top as she was going to hike up the trails to meet us on the way down.

Dallas Peak summit (13,809')

Dallas Peak summit (13,809′)

Me on top of Dallas

Me on top of Dallas

Telluride ski area and surrounding Bear Creek Canyon peaks from the summit of Dallas Peak

Telluride ski area and surrounding Bear Creek Canyon peaks from the summit of Dallas Peak

Mill Creek Basin and Mt. Emma (13,581') from the summit of Dallas Peak

Mill Creek Basin and Mt. Emma (13,581′) from the summit of Dallas Peak

After a good 25 minutes of lounging, snacking, and taking pictures, Jim readied the ropes and set up the rappel down the summit tower’s east face.

Jim setting up the rappel

Jim setting up the rappel

Jim guinea pigs the rappel

Jim guinea pigs the rappel

Kelly set to rap

Kelly set to rap

Jed relaxing a bit after the initial drop

Jed relaxing a bit after the initial drop

Jed rappelling. Photo by Kelly

Jed rappelling with me up top. Photo by Kelly

Jed lower down on the rappel

Jed lower down on the rappel

Me trying to peer over at Jed rappelling

Me trying to peer over at Jed rappelling. Photo by Kelly

Me on rappel with Jed downclimbing the snow

Me on rappel with Jed downclimbing the snow. Photo by Kelly

The rappel was a lot of fun and we soon found ourselves scrambling down the first class 4 section, the east face ledges, the climber’s trail, and then the lower south face cliff band all the way back down to the Sneffels Highline trail.

The hike out was nice and we met up with Kristine, Rainier, & Kona at the intersection of the Sneffels Highline and Deep Creek trails. After a snack and some good ole pets for Rainier & Kona, we were all off down the remaining 2 miles or so to the trailhead arriving back at the cars a little after 1pm. After arriving at the cars, Kona came out of the woods and we noticed needle-like thistles coming out of her snout – yep, porcupine quills. Fortunately, they were not embedded at all and with Jed’s help they basically just fell off her face. The weather had held beautifully for our Dallas climb and we all felt fortunate to have a nice morning with a great crew. I’m also glad the crew got to meet Kristine and the pups as well and vice versa. It was a fun coincidence that Kelly was in a group of three in the 16,000′ hut on Cotopaxi in December 2010 at the same time our large and rambunctious crew was staying in the same hut climbing the mountain the next morning. One of their crew (Shawn Keil) was a neighbor of one of our crew (Jesse Hill) in Denver. Small world. After saying our goodbyes, we left for Evon’s condo, took a nap, and had a relaxing evening in Telluride before packing up, cleaning, and heading home the next day. It was a memorable July 4th weekend for Kristine & myself in our favorite place in Colorado with Rainier, Kona, new, and old friends.