July, 2014 | Seven Summits

The Ellingwood Arete

by Brandon Chalk | Jul 24, 2014 | Colorado 14ers, Rock Climbing

I was finally able to make a climb happen last weekend that I had been longing to do for so many years since I first visited the Crestone Group of 14ers down in the heart of the Sangre de Cristo Range: the Ellingwood Arete on Crestone Needle. And, not only was it on my wish list, but also on the lists of my good climbing friends J Weingast & Steve Cizik. The three of us were determined to make it happen this summer and with Steve’s 33rd birthday last week, it was perfect timing to do just that. Good friend Mikey Santoro joined us to round out two teams of two for this classic alpine rock climb. In fact, the Ellingwood Arete (sometimes called the Ellingwood Ledges) is noted as one of the fifty classic climbs of North America as described in Steck & Roper’s book Fifty Classic Climbs of North America. The Ellingwood Arete was first climbed by Albert Ellingwood, a true pioneer of Colorado alpine climbing, and Eleanor Davis in August of 1925.

Rainier on Humboldt Peak’s west ridge in July 2009 with the Ellingwood Arete on Crestone Needle in profile in center of picture. Photo by Joel Gratz and was featured as the cover photo in the 2011 Vail Daily Pet Calender

Below is a rough outline of our route up Crestone Needle’s Ellingwood Arete with the “direct start” variation (from a picture I took in July 2009 from Humboldt Peak):

Ellingwood Arete with the “direct start” variation. Click to enlarge

There is so much information to be found on this route, I really won’t get into the details of the climb, but just share our experience up this wonderful route. This was my 6th time up into the South Colony Lakes basin and 4th time up the Needle, but I have to say this is one of the most striking and fantastic 14ers in our state. I am always in awe of this peak that just seems to jut out of the earth like a knife blade.

Crestone Needle’s Ellingwood Arete at sunset from our campsite

J, Mikey, and I drove the 4+ hours from Vail down to the South Colony Lakes trailhead this past Saturday and picked up Steve hiking the lower portion of the South Colony Lakes Road since his 2WD car wouldn’t make it too far up. We packed the 3.5 miles or so into South Colony Lakes basin early that evening and found a nice campsite between Lower & Upper South Colony Lakes. There was a stiff breeze with the clouds and front moving out that evening, but we were still able to get a fire going despite the fact that I singed my hair doing so.

I singed my hair trying to start the campfire. Photo by J

A nice setting with Broken Hand Peak as a backdrop to the south

It was a great evening of Qdoba burritos, scotch, stories, and a pretty decent campfire despite the breeze. Steve slept in his bivy while J, Mikey, and I crashed in my 3-man tent. Up at 3:45am to coffee and oatmeal, we set off around 5am under some moonlight but mostly headlamp. We boogied up to Upper South Colony Lake, filled up our water bottles and bladders, and made our way east skirting the lake’s edge. After making our way up the lower steep scree field, we found ourselves at the base of the “direct start” to the route right at dawn. It was perfect timing to start the technical climbing as we could put away our headlamps and climb in the twilight before sunrise. We did two teams of two on two ropes with my full alpine rack and set of nuts: J and Mikey and then Steve and myself. The first team would leave in the gear for the second team’s leader to just clip during his lead. This method worked fairly well and we were able to be pretty efficient.

Beginning of the “direct start” to the Ellingwood Arete

The 1st pitch’s traverse was pretty fun and likely goes at 5.6 leading into more of a 4th class/low 5th class dihedral to a decent belay ledge almost a full 60m rope length up. J led away up pitch 1 for the J/Mike team and I led this 1st pitch for the Steve/Brandon team.

J leading away on the 1st 5.6 traverse pitch

J in the dihedral on the 1st pitch after the exposed initial 5.6 traverse

The 2nd pitch proved to be more difficult than the mid-5th class rating we have seen. The issue with the 2nd pitch is that the crack in the center of the dihedral was fully wet with water running all down it. J led around this problem area to looker’s left just beautifully and then coordinated a delicate, exposed traverse back right into the dihedral above the wet rock. Steve did a solid lead for our team after Mike followed J up again to a great belay ledge with webbing almost a full 60m rope length up.

Mike following the 2nd 5.7 pitch

Steve leading the 2nd 5.7 pitch

Steve figuring out the traverse to get around the wet center crack of the 2nd pitch

The sun had now risen and its warmth on the rock was rejuvenating. The 3rd pitch up the “direct start” was likely low 5th class and for some may not warrant a rope at all, but we were roped up nonetheless and climbed the final ledges up to much easier terrain. Now, a note on the “direct start”. While I always welcome the possibility of getting in more technical pitches, if I were to climb this route again, I may just consider climbing the class 3 “ledges” variation in lieu of the “direct start”. The rockfall is quite abundant in this several hundred foot dihedral with all of the small pebbles and rocks and it is almost impossible for the rope or one’s self not to knock down loose rocks. However, it was fun to get some more technical climbing with the “direct start”. Though, if I were behind a group already on the “direct start”, I would definitely wait until they finished climbing the lengthy dihedral to the ledges above.

Mike on the nice grass ledges above the “direct start”

J and the Ellingwood Arete (Ledges) route above

Once on the grassy ledges above the “direct start”, we stowed the ropes, switched our rock shoes for trail runners, and made our way up the class 3/4 ledges bypassing a party of two to looker’s left who had ascended the “ledges” variation.

Steve having fun on the “ledges” of the Ellingwood Arete (Ledges) route

Steve on a class 3/4 section

J and I on the “ledges”. Photo by Steve

The boys scrambling up the Ellingwood Arete proper

Me climbing the Ellingwood Arete proper. Photo by Steve

One of the highlights of this route for us was the absolutely amazing scrambling up these ledges. Even 4th class and low 5th class terrain could be found and we all had so much fun ascending this wonderful Crestone Conglomerate rock.

Mikey & Steve on some low 5th class nearing the base of the 5.9 crack system

Mantling a big step

J on a nice perch this beautiful morning

The 5.9 & 5.7 pitches up ahead getting closer

Looking south to Broken Hand Peak and beyond

Really fun scrambling

J and the 5.9 crack with the moon above

Scrambling doesn’t get much better than this

Mikey & Steve

Steve styling high above Upper South Colony Lake

After some low 5th class scrambling up a mini-headwall, we reached the base of the 5.9 crack system. The 5.9 crack looked like so much fun and I was excited to lead this pitch. There is a mellower variation, which may be the more “standard” route, to looker’s right of the direct 5.9 crack. This arcing “standard” crack goes at about 5.6, I believe.

The 5.9 crack variation dead center of picture with the arcing standard 5.6 crack system to looker’s right

We donned our rock shoes once again, racked up, and Steve put me on belay. The climbing was absolutely awesome with great gear placements and really fun movements. I guess one piece of advice for this pitch is to bring plenty of slings. I had five slings on me and used them completely up. I could have used another few slings. Also, a #3 and #4 cam was helpful in the upper portion of the pitch.

Me leading the really fun 5.9 crack. Photo by Steve

Me leading the fun 5.9 pitch. Photo by J

It was a lengthy pitch as I only had about 5m left of my 60m rope when I topped out on the belay ledge. I knew the boys would have so much fun climbing this pitch. I would say the pitch is easy 5.9 (5.9-) at most, though at 14,000′ any technical climbing is not exactly “easy”. Steve had our pack and cruised the pitch as I belayed him up to me. J was right on Steve’s heels clipping my gear as he climbed and led the pitch beautifully.

J is below me here at the belay ledge for the 5.9 crack system

J then belayed Mikey up the pitch who was hauling the backpack for J and Mikey.

J belaying Mikey up the long lengthy 5.9 pitch

Me looking down on J belaying Mikey up the 5.9 crack

Mikey finishing up the 5.9 pitch

The belay ledge was more than spacious and we climbed up another 10′ to the base of the final 5.7 pitch. The 5.7 pitch above looked amazing. Steve grabbed the rack, I put him on belay, and he was off on what we dubbed his “birthday pitch”.

Steve set to lead the final pitch up the awesome 5.7 crack

Steve sewing it up

Steve spread-eagle on the final pitch

Steve on his “birthday pitch”

Me belaying Steve up the final 5.7 pitch with a beautiful backdrop to the north. Photo by J

It was a great lead for Steve and soon I was following the pitch with the always burdensome backpack on my back. I was able to snap some pics of J leading the final pitch as I climbed ahead of him.

J on the final 5.7 pitch with Mikey belaying him below. The other party of two can be seen below Mike belaying up the standard 5.6 arcing crack pitch

J loving life

J finishing the final pitch off

Another spacious belay ledge was at the top of the final 5.7 pitch and we all re-grouped there, stowed the ropes, and prepared for the final class 3 scramble to the Needle’s summit.

Steve & J at the top of the final 5.7 pitch

Crestone Needle’s version of the “Great Roof”

Mikey topping out

The boys at the top of the final 5.7 pitch

Mike & Steve on the fun scramble to Crestone Needle’s summit

A few minutes later around 10:30am we were standing on the Needle’s summit enjoying the views and basking in the warmth of the sun. There was so little wind that the shirts came off to get a little sun on our pale torsos.

Crestone Needle summit (14,197′)

J, myself, & Steve on the Needle’s summit with Crestone Peak in the distance

My 4th summit of Crestone Needle and the best yet!

We met two fellows from Gunnison drinking beer on top who are trying to hike all of the 14ers in their Chaco sandals. Really funny guys and we enjoyed conversing with them. We then swapped out our rock shoes for trail runners, stowed our harnesses, rack, and ropes, and descended Crestone needle’s standard east gully. Ever since I first climbed Crestone Needle via its standard south face route, I have always ascended/descended the east gully all the way to the summit ridge. I have never done the crossover to the west gully for whatever reason. There is just too good of scrambling to be had in the east gully directly to the summit ridge. The down-scrambling ceased all too fast and we soon found ourselves back at the top of Broken Hand Pass around noon. I had been wanting to hike the 13er Broken Hand Peak (13,573′) and so J joined me for the 700′ from the pass up the mellow northwest slopes to its summit.

J ascending Broken Hand Peak with Cottonwood Lake and Crestolita (13,270′) behind

J hiking up Broken Hand Peak’s north slopes with Crestone Needle behind

I really wanted to get a close-up view of the Needle and the Ellingwood Arete’s profile and the views sure didn’t disappoint.

The Needle is such a stunning peak, especially from this angle on top of Broken Hand Peak

Crestone Needle

Profile of the Ellingwood Arete up the Needle

We descended back to Broken Hand Pass, picked up our gear and rope, and headed on down to Lower South Colony Lake to find Steve fishing and Mikey napping. After a quick dunk in the lake, which always feels rejuvenating, we packed up camp and backpacked back to my truck. Arriving back in Westcliffe around 5pm, we had a long drive ahead of us. But, as always we stopped at my favorite dinner restaurant in Buena Vista, Casa del Sol, for awesome authentic Mexican cuisine. Yum. We arrived back home around 10pm, but great adventures in the mountains are always so worth it the late night arrival. Thanks to J, Steve, & Mikey for a very memorable day on a classic route.

Mt. Jackson

by Brandon Chalk | Jul 15, 2014 | Colorado 13ers

Due to a less than ideal weather forecast for a long ridge run in the Gores, J and I decided to go on an even longer hike in our backyard. No scrambling, no technical climbing, just a good ole lengthy day hike. Despite being more mileage than the ridge run we had planned in the Gores, many of the miles were below treeline, so if weather did move in as expected we could descend to cover pretty fast. The big 13er in our backyard that we have been meaning to hike the last decade we have lived here, but just never have: Mt. Jackson. We’ve looked at it a thousand times from other peaks and Highway 6 en route from Wolcott back to Edwards after rock climbing. Perhaps the best view is from the summit of our favorite Red & White Mountain (11,200′) to Jackson’s north.

Mt. Jackson (center of picture) with Beaver Creek ski mountain below as seen from the summit of Red & White Mountain. Click to enlarge

J, Rainier, & I on the summit of Red & White Mountain with Mt. Jackson behind us at left

J, Rainier, & I on the summit of Red & White Mountain with Grouse Mountain (far left) and Mt. Jackson (right of Grouse) behind us

It was time go for a hike. We parked at the Beaver Creek parking garage and began hiking up the road around 5:15am this past Saturday morning. We walked past all of the familiar chair lifts and buildings and cruised the 3 miles to Beaver Lake. We were the only ones on the trail this early, but suspected there would be many tourists at beaver lake upon our return. It was then another 4 miles from Beaver Lake to Lower Turqoise Lake on a good trail for the most part, though definitely a bit damp and muddy in places. We hiked the first 7 miles in about 2.5 hours, which we were pleased about since we were worried with building thunderstorms after noon. We took a left onto the Grouse Creek trail and climbed to treeline and then left the trail for the saddle between Grouse Mountain and Mt. Jackson in order to access Mt. Jackson’s northeast ridge.

J reaching Jackson's northeast ridge with the Beaver Creek valley approach at left and Beaver Creek ski mountain's "Bald Spot" above J's head

J reaching Jackson’s northeast ridge with the Beaver Creek valley approach at lower left and Beaver Creek ski mountain’s “Bald Spot” center of picture

Despite being relatively close to the Vail Valley and a ski resort, Jackson is deep. Deep back in the northern Sawatch Range with remote ridges and basins all around that we have long wanted to view from above. We moved pretty fast all morning always cognizant of when the storms may start building strength. However, the weather remained very nice and the mellow slopes of Jackson’s north east ridge allowed for some pretty speedy progress not to mention we were moving with ski and/or climbing gear, which was a welcome reprieve from the several previous outings.

J hiking on Jackson’s northeast ridge with Turqoise Lakes below

Finally, Jackson’s remaining northeast ridge rears up in earnest

Mt. of the Holy Cross’ west face came into view towering above the Cross Creek valley. We had never seen this view of Holy Cross up close before. Not as dramatic as the Cross Couloir and its east face, but impressive all the same. Familiar peaks we have climbed to the west came into view as well such as Fools Peak, Finnegans, and Gold Dust Peak. The final, narrowing ridge up to Jackson’s summit was pretty spectacular with gorgeous views all around.

J on Jackson’s narrowing northeast ridge

Me heading to Jackson’s summit

Left to right: Fools Peak, Point 13,126′, and Gold Dust Peak with Mt. Sopris in distance

Fools Peak and its north ridge, which Kristine and I climbed in the fall of 2010, with Capitol Peak in distance at left

Point 13,126′ and its cool looking north couloir with Mt. Sopris in the distance

We topped out on Jackson’s might summit at 9:45am about 4.5 hours after we left the parking garage. Clouds were definitely forming all around, but we believed the weather to hold for at least another few hours (fingers crossed). Pictures were taken all around and the views savored in every direction.

J taking in the views to the south

Upper Camp Lake at the head of very long East Lake Creek basin, which we hope to explore in the future

Grizzly's north couloir in center of picture

Grizzly’s north couloir, which we skied 2 weeks prior, in center of picture

Savage Peak and Mt. Massive in distance

Mt. of the Holy Cross (left) & Holy Cross Ridge (right)

Gold Dust Peak (far left) to Finnegans (far right), a traverse that has “peaked” our interest

Backside of Finnegans

Looking back down Jackson's northeast ridge to Grouse Mountain and Beaver Creek ski mountain's "Bald Spot"

Looking back down Jackson’s northeast ridge to Grouse Mountain (center) and Beaver Creek ski mountain’s “Bald Spot” (far left)

Jackson’s USGS summit marker

Summit of Mt. Jackson (13,670′)

Panoramic of J on the summit of Mt. Jackson

We only probably stayed 15 minutes up top and then began our descent. We quickly made progress chatting and telling stories (yes, even after so many years together in the mountains, we still have plenty to talk about) back down to the saddle with Grouse Mountain and considered our options. It was now 11am and the last thing we wanted to do was to take a chance with the weather, but we believed it would hold long enough for us to go check out the 12er Grouse Mountain as well. So, we motored up the 800′ to Grouse Mountain’s summit ridge and beelined for its summit.

On our way up Grouse Mtn with Mt. Jackson behind

I thought this rock looked like an alien’s head

Grouse Lake came into view far away down to the northeast and Beaver Creek ski mountain’s “Bald Spot” was much closer now. Jackson seemed far away. We saw a herd of elk on the saddle below, which was an awesome sight my dad would have truly appreciated.

J topping out on Grouse Mountain

Looking northeast to Vail ski mountain and the Gores

Grouse Mtn summit (12,799′)

Grouse’s USGS summit marker

Herd of elk from Grouse’s summit

We then began our second descent of the day back to treeline and the Grouse Creek trail. We timed it just about perfect as it began to rain once we were in the trees. The rain didn’t last long and suprisingly we never heard thunder or saw lightning all day. Maybe we could have done the long Gore traverse we had planned. Nevertheless, this long high up behind Beaver Creek was a great way to spend a day.

Heading back down to treeline

We finally reached my truck in the Beaver Creek parking garage at 3:15pm after 10 hours on our feet. Other than some sore pads on my feet (I need some Hokas for these 20+ mile days), I felt great as J did even after a 22 mile day with around 6,600′ of vertical gain. All in all, a solid day in our backyard.

Dallas Peak

by Brandon Chalk | Jul 10, 2014 | Colorado 13ers

This past weekend Kristine, Rainier, Kona, and I jetted on down to one of our favorite places for the July 4th festivities: Telluride. A few weeks prior, a climbing acquaintance who had hiked Culebra with J and I in the winter of 2013, Jed Flint, had noted he was wanting to climb the high centennial 13er Dallas Peak at 13,809′, which is actually 100th on the centennial list by elevation, on that Saturday, July 5th. Wanting to climb something that same Saturday and as I had never climbed Dallas, we joined forces to make it happen. Over the past 16 years I had climbed many of the 12ers, 13ers, and 14ers surrounding Telluride, but Dallas had always remained that elusive peak that I had just never given much thought to climbing. However, realizing that it is one of the tougher centennial peaks, has a 5.3 summit pitch, and a rappel, it all sounded like a lot of fun. Also, I have sort of been getting into the centennials this past year whether skiing, hiking, or climbing them and Dallas seemed interesting and a nice fit for the weekend.

At 26 weeks pregnant with out little gal, Kristine is still doing so well and getting outdoors a bunch. We slept in Friday morning, enjoyed the fantastic Telluride 4th of July parade on Main Street, and then took the dogs hiking up the familiar Bear Creek trail to Bear Creek Falls. Our good friends, Betsy & Lee Hoffman, and their boys came over to watch the awesome firework spectacle that evening from the in-town deck of my aunt Evon’s condo.

Bear Creek Falls

Telluride fireworks lighting up the box canyon

It was a spectacle…

…and very loud, which scared the dogs quite a bit

Up at 3am, I got my gear together and headed to the Mill Creek trailhead to meet up with Jed as well as two other climbers, Kelly & Jim, who had joined our little crew. We got on the trail under headlamp around 4:15am or thereabouts. As the weather forecast called for thunderstorms starting to build at 9am, we thought it prudent for a very early start.

It was fun meeting new folks and hiking with a different crew. Its quite a lengthy approach to treeline, but all on the great Deep Creek and Sneffels Highline trails. After first light and breaking out of treeline, Dallas’s intimidating fortress-like south face came into view.

Dallas’s south face

Dawn on the Wilsons & Lizard Head to the south

The tops of the Telluride ski mountain and surrounding peaks waking up

We took a variation to attaining the south face slopes via a grassy rib, which worked out pretty well in lieu of the loose talus that leads up to the cliffs.

Jim & Kelly making their way up the grassy rib after leaving the Sneffels Highline trail

From the top of the grassy rib we traversed onto steep loose scree-covered slabs and then up to the base of the class 3 weakness through the lower cliff band.

The steep, loose, scree-covered slabs up to the lower cliff band on Dallas’ south face

A hundred or so feet of class 3 scrambling dumped us out on a climber’s trail up through the steep talus leading northeast around to Dallas’ east face. Route-finding was fairly straightforward switching from the south to east faces and we made our way up via ledges to the first fun class 4 section.

Jed on the climber’s trail above the lower cliff band

Dallas’s upper east slopes and the summit tower

Kelly & Jed on a nice perch

Sand-castle looking towers on Dallas’ east ridge with Sneffels looking large in the distance

The summit tower of Dallas now came into view. The weather was absolutely gorgeous and it was still very early in the morning. The rock was fairly solid for this short section of class 4 and we all made quick work of this fun pitch.

Jed all smiles starting the class 4 pitch

Kelly & Jim making their way up the class 4 section

This first class 4 section is fairly exposed yet very solid

Easier class 2 terrain remained up to the base of the second class 4 chimney to gain the ledges of the north face.

Mellow terrain up to the base of the class 4 chimney (first gully to the right of the one with snow)

Mellow terrain up to the base of the class 4 chimney, which is the dry gully leading to the 2nd notch to the right of the summit tower in the center of the picture

I believe we all thought the moves up this next class 4 chimney were low 5th class and the crux of the entire route in terms of technical maneuvering. Nevertheless, it was all in good fun and we reached the notch at the top of the chimney where there were slings in place in case climbers needed to rappel the chimney. The position at this notch was spectacular.

The class 4 chimney was mostly snow-free

Jed, Kelly, & Jim working the chimney

Kelly & Jim in the class 4 chimney

Jim at the notch before the ledge traverse on the north face with Teakettle behind and Uncompahgre & Wetterhorn even further in the distance

A short traverse on the steep north-facing ledges led to the base of the 90′ 5.3 summit pitch. We all geared up, I donned my microspikes and my rack, and Jim put me on belay. The first 10′ or so of the summit pitch was steep snow so thanks to Kelly’s snow picket, I was able to place this as a first piece of protection. I then was able to get on the rock, take my spikes off, and place a 0.75 cam to protect the 5.3 crux. Above the crux was mostly 4th class and I didn’t feel the need to place another piece of gear until I reached the nice, large black sling slung around a summit rock.

Me starting up the summit pitch. Photo by Kelly

Me getting to the dry rock on the summit pitch. Photo by Kelly

The crux section of the summit pitch. Photo by Kelly

I had brought my two 8mm/30m ropes and these worked perfectly for all four of us. Jed, Kelly, and Jim tied into the ropes and essentially simul-climbed on my belay up the final pitch.

Jed coming up the top portion of the summit pitch

Jed

Everyone made short-work of the final pitch and soon we were all on the summit of Dallas Peak around 9:15am under a blue-bird, sunny morning sky. I texted Kristine that we were on top as she was going to hike up the trails to meet us on the way down.

Dallas Peak summit (13,809′)

Me on top of Dallas

Telluride ski area and surrounding Bear Creek Canyon peaks from the summit of Dallas Peak

Mill Creek Basin and Mt. Emma (13,581′) from the summit of Dallas Peak

After a good 25 minutes of lounging, snacking, and taking pictures, Jim readied the ropes and set up the rappel down the summit tower’s east face.

Jim setting up the rappel

Jim guinea pigs the rappel

Kelly set to rap

Jed relaxing a bit after the initial drop

Jed rappelling with me up top. Photo by Kelly

Jed lower down on the rappel

Me trying to peer over at Jed rappelling. Photo by Kelly

Me on rappel with Jed downclimbing the snow. Photo by Kelly

The rappel was a lot of fun and we soon found ourselves scrambling down the first class 4 section, the east face ledges, the climber’s trail, and then the lower south face cliff band all the way back down to the Sneffels Highline trail.

The hike out was nice and we met up with Kristine, Rainier, & Kona at the intersection of the Sneffels Highline and Deep Creek trails. After a snack and some good ole pets for Rainier & Kona, we were all off down the remaining 2 miles or so to the trailhead arriving back at the cars a little after 1pm. After arriving at the cars, Kona came out of the woods and we noticed needle-like thistles coming out of her snout – yep, porcupine quills. Fortunately, they were not embedded at all and with Jed’s help they basically just fell off her face. The weather had held beautifully for our Dallas climb and we all felt fortunate to have a nice morning with a great crew. I’m also glad the crew got to meet Kristine and the pups as well and vice versa. It was a fun coincidence that Kelly was in a group of three in the 16,000′ hut on Cotopaxi in December 2010 at the same time our large and rambunctious crew was staying in the same hut climbing the mountain the next morning. One of their crew (Shawn Keil) was a neighbor of one of our crew (Jesse Hill) in Denver. Small world. After saying our goodbyes, we left for Evon’s condo, took a nap, and had a relaxing evening in Telluride before packing up, cleaning, and heading home the next day. It was a memorable July 4th weekend for Kristine & myself in our favorite place in Colorado with Rainier, Kona, new, and old friends.

Spring Ski Finale on Grizzly

by Brandon Chalk | Jul 2, 2014 | Colorado 13ers, Ski-mountaineering

Grizzly Peak A, Colorado’s highest ranked 13er at 13,988′, and its aesthetic north couloir have always remained on my list for the spring ski season. The standard route up Grizzly meanders up its east ridge at class 2+, but climbing and skiing its north couloir seemed like the way to go for the Grizz. The 4WD Lincoln Creek Road finally opened up around June 21 thus allowing access to the Grizzly Reservoir and Grizzly Creek trailhead. Access to Grizzly’s northern basin and Grizzly Lake can be had from Highway 82 and Independence Pass via a few adventurous routes for earlier season jaunts, but we just decided to wait until the Lincoln Creek Road opened. I gazed upon Grizzly’s north couloir from up high on the Geissler Mountains north of Independence Pass back on June 1 and thought it was such a cool line yet it looked pretty darn steep.

Shawn, Mike, and Jenn about to drop in on West Geissler Mountain on June 1 with the stunning north couloir of Grizzly Peak A at far left

J, Derek, and I made our way over to the Grizzly Reservoir campground late last Friday evening and set up camp on a cot and in the back of my truck. It actually rained a bit during the night forcing J from outside on his mini-cot into the back of my truck with Derek and myself, but that was OK – just like being in a tight 3-man tent. We set the alarm to 5am and actually woke up to low clouds and no morning sunlight. A bit disappointing and contrary to the sunny weather forecast since good and safe spring skiing is pretty much totally dependent on the sun softening the snow. Nevertheless, we figured it would clear at some point and got walking up the Grizzly Creek trail at around 6am.

Socked in mountains to start the day

Now, I knew I had forgotten something at home and upon rolling up the 4WD Lincoln Creek Road, I realized what it was – my trail runners. After a second of shock, I realized I could just wear my sandals (better yet Derek’s sandals since they were not Chacos circa 1990 and his had more cushion). All was well and they worked fine. The trail was mostly dry up to a few hundred feet below Grizzly Lake (12,500′) where I switched to my ski boots since my socks in the sandals were starting to get damp. It was still only about 8am and the basin was still very socked in with a stiff breeze and fairly cold. Two other ski-mountaineers were camped high in the basin below the lake whom we would later meet on the summit. J and Derek switched to ski boots at the lake and we geared up for the climb up the north couloir though the upper half of the couloir was still very socked in with clouds.

J and Derek switching gears at Grizzly Lake with a socked in Grizzly Peak looming above

Upon beginning the climb up the couloir, the weather fortunately started breaking up and the sun would shine through for longer and longer periods of time. The snow was softening somewhat, thank goodness.

Starting the boot up the north couloir with Grizzly Lake behind

The north couloir climb was really a lot of fun and nothing too steep – just good snow for kicking steps and climbing nature’s stair master for 1,300′ to the summit ridge.

J and Derek climbing Grizzly’s north couloir

Good snow climbing

The weather really started to break up and allow the sun to shine through for brief periods

The upper portion of Grizzly’s awesome north couloir

Derek

The steepness probably reached 40 degrees or slightly over with room for steeper slopes on the couloir’s right (west) side where the potential for rockfall is a bit higher. We topped out about an hour and 15 minutes after cramponing up at the couloir’s base. The top 100′ of the couloir was the steepest, though it was very short-lived.

Nearing the top of the couloir

The couloir exit

We left our ski gear and just took our packs to hike the last bit along Grizzly’s summit ridge and up to the summit itself.

Hiking the summit ridge to Grizzly’s true summit

We topped out at around 10am and the clouds were still blocking the sun somewhat, though the weather was still improving with every passing minute. So, we just found a nice perch on Grizzly’s summit and had a snack and something to drink and just hung out for awhile. It was very relaxing. I think J even fell asleep.

Our nice little, exposed perch on Grizzly’s summit for over an hour hoping the sun comes out to soften the snow up

J lounging

Left to right: Huron, Princeton, Three Apostles, Antero

The folks from Durango making their way across the summit ridge

11:15am rolled around and we figured we may want to get on a move since Kristine was planning my birthday camp up on our local Red & White Mountain that evening with good friends (us included). At that time, the two climbers we had seen earlier topped out and we all introduced ourselves. Two very nice folks from Durango were up in the Aspen area for a few days just skiing peaks. They were nice to take our summit pics.

Grizzly Peak A summit (13,988′)

Me on top of ole Grizz. Photo by Derek

We soon headed back to our skis only to find three climbers climbing up the couloir. So, we waited another 30 minutes for them to top out in order to not cause a raucous in the couloir and make things more dangerous for everyone than they needed to be.

Three other climbers ascending the north couloir

We then dropped in around noon to an audience of climbers gazing upon our turns. I was a bit nervous. I’ve never had an audience skiing a steep line on a high peak before. I am glad we waited another 30 minutes because the sun really heated things up in that time and made the snow soft and just about perfect. J dropped in first on the 50+ degree slopes on the skier’s left side of the couloir. Derek went second and I went third. Its hard to follow those two as they can consistently ski anything and everything very well. After the top 100′, I got into my tele rythym and started cruising tele turns down to J and Derek. It was so much fun.

J off the top with a scenic backdrop

J making steep skiing look pretty easy

J skiing with Grizzly Resevoir (our trailhead) in the distance center of picture

J skiing with Grizzly Reservoir (our trailhead) in the distance center of picture

Derek about to ski

Derek

Derek skiing a great late spring/early summer ski line

Derek lower down

Me off the top with an audience. Photo by Derek

Me telemarking mid-couloir. Photo by Derek

The lower half of the couloir was not so much fun with the runnels and debris here and there, but skier’s right side of the couloir was fairly smooth and we all made nice turns back down to Grizzly lake.

Derek & J about halfway down the north couloir

Derek

Me skiing the lower portion of the north couloir. Photo by Derek

We were able to ski another 500′ down from the lake linking some interesting slots and snowfields and were able to still ski about 2,000′ vertical on June 28! Not too bad. Its been a great snow year for sure.

J and I back on the trail. Photo by Derek

The top 3/4 of Grizzly Peak A’s north couloir shown in red as seen on the hike out the Grizzly Creek trail

We switched modes of transportation once we hit the Grizzly Creek trail (that is, ski boots and skis for trail runners and sandals) and made our way back to the trailhead arriving at around 2:15pm. We loaded up my truck and boogied out of there to get back to Edwards but still got one last view of Grizzly on the drive out the Lincoln Creek Road.

Grizzly Peak and the top of its north couloir as seen from Lincoln Creek Road

Grizzly’s north couloir sure was a phenomenal way to end a great spring ski season up high in our beloved mountains. I think it goes down as one of my most memorable ski-mountaineering trips with my good buds.

Later that evening we all celebrated me getting yet another year older (jeesh) up at our favorite car camping spot on Red & White Mountain. Kristine was so sweet to organize everything and all out good friends for a night of campfires, good food, cornhole, some booze, a small handgun, and awesome camaraderie. Some of us woke up early (thanks to Mr. Gratz’s motivation to hike before driving back to Boulder) and hiked the 3 miles and 1,800′ up to Red & White’s true summit for a gorgeous early morning view of our neighborhood. I think I am now ready to pack the skis away and fully embrace summer!