Milk Creek Cragging & Independence Monument

Well, springtime finally seems to be here! With the avalanche conditions still not quite within our comfort level (we cancelled our annual Mt. Sopris ski mountaineering trip because of not so ideal snow conditions), we continue to hit the rock climbing hard. Several fellow co-workers joined the dogs & I for an afternoon in the sun down at Milk Creek in Wolcott, my new favorite local climbing crag. It has lots of varied crack climbs to practice our desert traditional climbing as well as a few really hard sport routes. A few pics from Friday:

Mike leading a nice 5.7 trad route

Mike leading a nice 5.7 trad route

Nicki on her 1st rock climb ever with me 40' above her finishing off one of my favorite 5.9 trad leads

Nicki on her 1st rock climb ever with me 40′ above her finishing off one of my favorite 5.9 trad leads

Me coming over to give Nicki a little rock climbing instruction

Me coming over to give Nicki a little rock climbing instruction

Me trying to give Nicki ideas on where to move her feet and hands - she did so well!

Me trying to give Nicki ideas on where to move her feet and hands – she did so well!

Eric Aden on his 1st 5.8 dihedral layback crack climb

Eric Aden on his 1st 5.8 dihedral layback crack climb

Eric on the 5.8 dihedral (left) while Zac loads up for the 5.9 layback crack (right)

Eric on the 5.8 dihedral (left) while Zac loads up for the 5.9 layback crack (right)

Zac laying back the really cool 5.9 crack

Zac laying back the really cool 5.9 crack

Kristine, the dogs, & myself then packed up the car Saturday afternoon and headed west for some warm desert sun, car camping, and rock climbing. We met our friends Sarah & Keith Webber as well as Lauren & Steve at the Rabbit Valley free car-camping area just two miles from the Colorado/Utah state line. It was a fun night of campfires, horseshoes, burritos, s’mores, and stories. Kristine & I got up around 6am, made breakfast, left the dogs with Sarah & Keith to sleep in for a few more hours, and drove to Colorado National Monument with the intent of climbing the historic Otto’s Route up Independence Monument. I had climbed this route last November with my good friend Jesse Hill and absolutely loved it! Check out my first climb & description of Otto’s Route up Independence Monument here. I knew Kristine would feel the same way and she wanted to climb it. In four fairly short pitches, except for the 140′ Pitch 1, you can stand on the summit of this awesome desert tower. There are two cruxes in most people’s opinion: the 5.8+ off-width chimney of Pitch 2 and the final few 5.9- mantle moves of the final Pitch 4. Kristine did awesome on these cruxes. She climbed the cruxes clean never needing to rest on the rope. Add to the fact that we were the only climbers on the tower all day long and it was a really good day. I really enjoy leading this route and we brought along a second 60m rope for the rappel down that I trailed behind me on lead. I think we began hiking the 2.5 miles to the base of the tower around 8am, summitted the tower around 11:30am, and were back at the car after a hot hike out around 2pm. The two double rope rappels down the tower are exhilerating for sure. I know we are both really looking forward to more climbing in Colorado National Monument in the future as towers such as the Kissing Couple and the numerous single pitch crack climbs are hard to resist. Pics from our climb up Independence Monument are as follows:

At the Monument Canyon trailhead

At the Monument Canyon trailhead

Kristine & Independence Monument on the hike to the base of the tower

Kristine & Independence Monument on the hike to the base of the tower

Me leading the 5.8+ Pitch 2 of Otto's Route up the obvious off-width chimney

Me leading the 5.8+ Pitch 2 of Otto’s Route up the obvious off-width chimney

Kristine in the Time Tunnel to the base of Pitch 3

Kristine in the Time Tunnel to the base of Pitch 3

Me leading the fun 5.7 Pitch 3

Me leading the fun 5.7 Pitch 3

Me about to pull the crux 5.9- moves on the final Pitch 4

Me about to pull the crux 5.9- moves on the final Pitch 4

On top of Pitch 4

On top of Pitch 4

Kristine on top of Independence Monument after climbing the historical Otto's Route

Kristine on top of Independence Monument after climbing the historical Otto’s Route

A gorgeous day to be on top of a desert tower

A gorgeous day to be on top of a desert tower

The Chalks on the summit of Independence Monument

The Chalks on the summit of Independence Monument

Summit panorama #1

Summit panorama #1

Summit panorama #2

Summit panorama #2

A really fun climb with Kristine, which she thoroughly enjoyed

A really fun climb with Kristine, which she thoroughly enjoyed

First double rope rappel off the summit down to the Time Tunnel

Me on the first double rope rappel off the summit down to the Time Tunnel

Kristine on the second double rope rappel to the ground

Kristine on the second double rope rappel to the ground

Me trying hard to pull the ropes through to the ground after the rappel - quite the arm workout!

Me trying hard to pull the ropes through to the ground after the rappel – quite the arm workout!

Independence Monument

Independence Monument

Parting shot before the hot hike out

Parting shot before the hot hike out

The Minturn Couloir

This past Saturday, J & I did a little fun adventuring up a couloir near Minturn that we had been wanting to get on for some time now. It’s the prominent “S” shaped couloir up the center of a fairly steep face at the “S” bend in Highway 24 just south of Minturn.

The widest part of the couloir can be seen here from Minturn

The widest part of the couloir can be seen here from Minturn

The Minturn Couloir

The Minturn Couloir

Its always fun for us to head out into something we really don’t know much about (or anything at all) and hope for the best in that we get to the top or find a way through. Ice axes & crampons were definitely a necessity as was my 30m rope, harnesses, and a few cams, but in hindsight we should have brought the ice tools and a few ice screws. There are three near vertical pitches or cruxes in the lower half of the couloir that really justify roped technical climbing.

The Minturn Couloir with the three cruxes identified

The Minturn Couloir with the three cruxes identified

The 1st crux is probably 20 vertical feet tall and consists of some near vertical ice and snow-covered rock on both sides. The ice would have been fun to climb if we had our ice tools and a screw or two. C’est la vie. We found a rock/dirt scrambling alternative to looker’s left around this crux and entered the snow-filled couloir again above it.

The lower section of the couloir - avalanche debris everywhere

The lower section of the couloir – avalanche debris everywhere

The 1st crux - we bypassed this section to the left via rock ledges

The 1st crux – we bypassed this section to the left via rock ledges

The 2nd crux is a vertical icefall with a rock climbing alternative to looker’s right of the icefall. Its probably only about 15 vertical feet and we chose the rock climbing option because again we did not bring our ice gear. J got up on a small ledge and we both then realized we should rope up for the 5.4 or so traverse across the small ledge and back into the couloir above the icefall. I handed J my rack and we both harnessed up. J placed a few cams, made the traverse moves in his crampons, and set up an anchor once back in the couloir and brought me up. It was a fun little pitch of technical climbing.

J with the 2nd & 3rd cruxes visible ahead

J with the 2nd & 3rd cruxes visible ahead

Looking down the couloir to the 1st crux below

Looking down the couloir to the 1st crux below

J on the 5th class rock to the right of the icefall at the 2nd crux

J on the 5th class rock to the right of the icefall at the 2nd crux

J leading the 2nd crux rock band

J leading the 2nd crux rock band

J rounding the corner back into the couloir at the 2nd crux

J rounding the corner back into the couloir at the 2nd crux

The 3rd crux is just above the 2nd crux and involves about 35’ of technical ice, though not completely vertical. It would have been a fun lead for sure on good waterfall ice with 2-3 ice screws. However, we ventured on steep ground to our left around on a steep ledge and did some exposed 4th class rock scrambling up and around the icefall. We re-entered the couloir above the 3rd crux after some fairly exposed moves on a snow-covered ledge system with decent hand holds on rock.

The icefall of the 3rd crux was the largest - maybe 35' in height.

The icefall of the 3rd crux was the largest – maybe 35′ in height.

Looking down at the 2nd crux from exposed ledges

Looking down at the 2nd crux from exposed ledges

J working his way back into the couloir proper above the 3rd crux

J working his way back into the couloir proper above the 3rd crux

The next 800’ or so was great snow-filled couloir climbing. The angle probably never exceeded 40 degrees until we got to the top 200’ or so where the couloir choked and got steeper, likely 45-50 degrees or so. A second axe could have been useful in a few really steep spots but the snow was soft enough where J & I could just put a fist in the snow for support and stability. When the very narrow couloir seemed to peter out, we traversed to the right around a cliff wall and then climbed steep snow straight up for about 50 vertical feet to level ground and the top of the couloir.

J doing some fine couloir climbing above the 3rd crux

J doing some fine couloir climbing above the 3rd crux

Looking down the couloir and Highway 24

Looking down the couloir and Highway 24

J in the Minturn Couloir

J in the Minturn Couloir

Steep snow climbing ensued as the couloir constricted towards the top

Steep snow climbing ensued as the couloir constricted towards the top

The couloir petering out towards the top at which point we traversed to the right

The couloir petering out towards the top at which point we traversed to the right

J finishing off the Minturn Couloir with more steep snow climbing

J finishing off the Minturn Couloir with more steep snow climbing

The 2nd & 3rd cruxes as well as the upper narrow portion of the couloir can be seen here

The 2nd & 3rd cruxes as well as the upper narrow portion of the couloir can be seen here

We eventually topped out, drank a bit of water, and ventured through the trees for a hundred yards or so to pick up an old snow-covered road bed originally constructed for the natural gas pipeline serving the town of Red Cliff from Minturn. After 30 minutes of walking down the road sans snowshoes and a bit of post-holing, we came to an alcove where the road hugged the edge of the steeper northwest facing wall in which the couloir was inset. This point was where we thought we could climb down dirt and rock ledges back to the car for about 1,000’. We could have taken the road all the way to the Two Elk trailhead and Minturn rifle range but that would have put us a ways from my truck at the “S” turn on Highway 24. The descent worked out well and we were back at my car about 3 hours after leaving it.

All in all, a really fun few hours with J in a neat little couloir that involves some pretty cool climbing. It would be fun to go back and climb the two ice pitches we bypassed to the left. I’m happy we finally got in this couloir, which we have dubbed the Minturn Couloir, since J’s Active Energies office is in Minturn and he looks up at it about every day. We got this climb in just in the nick of time before the Vail Valley received 13” of new snow that evening for Sunday’s closing day at Vail & Beaver Creek plus an additional 24” on Monday! J’s wife, Megan, the dogs, & I skinned up Arrowhead Monday evening for the deepest run down Arrowhead I’ve ever had in the heaviest of snow conditions I’ve ever experienced. I have never straight-lined that ski run before, but did so Monday night. It took all my effort to lean back as far as possible in order to keep my ski tips up on the surface. Thankfully, this huge storm will help with Colorado’s water supply and decrease the potential for forest fire outbreaks this summer.

Mt. Lincoln

Our good friends Jamie Buckley & Eileen Clerig came to visit us this past weekend from Chicago. It was an absolute treat for Kristine & I to host these two and its always a special bonus when you find couples that you so enjoy hanging out and adventuring with both halves of the couple. Jamie is a fraternity brother and pledge brother of mine from W&L and has been a long time great friend. Jamie also climbed Kilimanjaro with Kristine, myself, and others in 2011 and I believe has a newfound interest in this whole mountain climbing bit. Jamie had climbed a few Colorado 14ers in preparation for the climb of Kilimanjaro and he definitely wanted to attempt another one on this short but sweet trip back to Colorado. As always, Kristine & I are up for any kind of adventure and I thought the nearby Mt. Lincoln would be a good 14er for all of us to attempt as it is relatively short (5 miles or so roundtrip with less than 3,000′ vertical gain). We have come to know Eileen well over the past two years and we absolutely love this gal! She is so upbeat and positive and has a glowing personality. She and Buckley make a wonderful couple – so wonderful in fact that they are engaged and are getting married in Florida this June 15! I truly cannot wait to attend the festivities and I believe most of my fraternity brothers feel the same way.

Mt. Lincoln (14,286') from Colorado Highway 9

Mt. Lincoln (14,286′) from Colorado Highway 9

My only other Colorado fraternity & pledge brother, Chris Sutton, who is a good friend and lawyer in Colorado Springs joined us as well with his girlfriend, Alison. Additionally, our good friend and partner in crime, Lauren McKeone, who teaches with Kristine in Vail, expressed interest in coming along with her German Shepherd, Scout. Last but not least, of course, Rainie & Kona rounded out the crew.

Bucks, Sutton, & Alison snowshoeing Lincoln's lower slopes

Bucks, Sutton, & Alison snowshoeing Lincoln’s lower slopes

Buckley climbing the first steep snow slope

Buckley climbing the first steep snow slope

Kristine, Rainie, Kona, & I had been up Lincoln a few times and its always good to go back. This time we started the climb from the eastern Quartzville trailhead as the more standard and higher (in elevation) Kite Lake trailhead from the west was likely not accessible via car because of the snowpack. The last half mile to the Quartzville 4WD trailhead parking was deep snow so we had to park on the road, which added a bit more length to the hike but completely manageable. Kristine & I went sans snowshoes and besides the initial half mile up the road, there was very little post-holing as most of the east ridge route was firm snow or barren rock/grass. The weather forecast, however, was far from ideal. With a 40% chance of snow, I honestly didn’t know what to expect. But, with only one day for a 14er attempt for Buckley & Eileen, we had to at least give it an attempt. The snow really never came, which was absolutely fine with us. But what did come was the wind and lots of it! The forecast had only called for 15-20mph winds, but I estimated the winds were likely 40mph up higher on the east ridge with gusts perhaps at even higher wind speeds. Fortunately, the air temperature was fairly warm, which made the wind chill temperature manageable.

Lauren & Scout in good form at about 12,800' on the east ridge

Lauren & Scout in good form at about 12,800′ on the east ridge

Definitely a scewed picture I took here of Lauren & Scout, but sort of cool in a strange way

Definitely a scewed picture I took here of Lauren & Scout, but sort of cool in a strange way

We really didn’t start snowshoeing/hiking until about 9:45am because of the slow drive over from Vail on icy/snowy roads. The sun kept poking through the intermittent clouds, which was definitely a reprieve from the high winds. Eileen let all of us know early on that she was really just wanting to have a nice, leisurely day in the Colorado high country but she knew that Buckley really wanted to summit if at all possible. Kristine then remained with Eileen and they both proceeded at Eileen’s pace and enjoyed the day. It actually worked out for the best as Kristine & Eileen got to have some great “gal time” together. Sutton & Alison made it to about 13,000’ on the east ridge before turning around due to the high winds. At that point, Buckley, Lauren, the dogs, & I had reached the base of the final summit cone at about 13,800’. Now, I never want to push my friends to do anything they are uncomfortable with or do not want to do. I kept turning around and asking Lauren & Buckley if they would like to continue. Their perseverance & resolve were incredible. They always wanted to forge ahead despite the very taxing high winds. We were never in a dangerous situation, though I know it likely felt a bit dangerous to them because of the high winds. I then broke trail up the final summit cone in hopes that the footsteps would help Buckley & Lauren.

Lauren & Scout climbing the final summit cone to Lincoln's summit

Lauren & Scout climbing the final summit cone to Lincoln’s summit

It was a hard fought battle, but Bucks persevered

It was a hard fought battle, but Bucks persevered

Buckley reaching Lincoln's summit

Buckley reaching Lincoln’s summit

I like this one of Buckley reaching Lincoln's summit

I like this one of Buckley reaching Lincoln’s summit

We all topped out around 1pm, I believe, and enjoyed a good 20 minutes on the summit taking in the views and snapping pictures. Amazingly, the winds up top were not nearly as strong as the winds hammering us pretty much the entire ascent. My hat is off to Buckley on really staying strong to the end, as he normally does, and pushing through to the summit, especially since he had just come from Chicago (elevation 579’) two days before! He’s one tough son of a gun. And, Lauren did so fantastic in putting aside any doubt and disbelief to make a successful 14er ascent in tough conditions. Lauren has really been getting out with Kristine & myself on our backcountry and mountain climbing excursions and her efforts are really paying off! Chalk up another 14er summit for Buckley & Lauren and a new one at that!

Lauren & Scout on Mt. Lincoln's summit (14,286')

Lauren & Scout on Mt. Lincoln’s summit (14,286′)

Me, Rainie, & Kona on Lincoln's summit

Me, Rainie, & Kona on Lincoln’s summit

Jamie Buckley on Mt. Lincoln's summit (14,286')

Jamie Buckley on Mt. Lincoln’s summit (14,286′)

Pikes on another summit together

Pikes on another summit together

Group summit shot on Mt. Lincoln (14,286')

Group summit shot on Mt. Lincoln (14,286′)

I cleaned the ice and snow out of the dogs’ paws, but they were really cold, especially Kona with blowing ice freezing to her fur, so we descended pretty fast.

Lauren, Scout, & Buckley descending Lincoln's summit cone

Lauren, Scout, & Buckley descending Lincoln’s summit cone

Buckley on the descent

Buckley on the descent

The almost Buckleys back at the car with Mt. Lincoln behind to top off an awesome day in the Colorado highcountry

The almost Buckleys back at the car with Mt. Lincoln behind to top off an awesome day in the Colorado high country

We eventually made it back down to the basin far below and met up with Kristine & Eileen. We had learned that they had made it all the way to 13,500’ on the east ridge where they could see us climbing up the final snow summit cone. Eileen did such a stellar job and I think she really felt good about herself. Kristine is amazing at coaching friends along and setting minor goals along the way. They had had a great few hours together, which is what it was all about anyway. Sutton & Alison had descended back down to their car and the rest of us made it back down to the cars at around 3pm but not without some good ole spring post-holing on the half mile stretch of road down from the 4WD trailhead parking. But, what’s a spring 14er climb without some post-holing, right? We all headed to the Breckenridge Brewery for some beers, food, and NCAA Final Four basketball and toasted to a great day up on the mountain. I think Buckley & Eileen had a great visit back to Colorado, however short it was, and a wonderful breath of fresh air before heading back to the Windy City. Kristine & I truly loved having them. I think Eileen said it best when she said, “Ya Know, even though it was a short visit, I feel it was very rich & hearty with friendship and good times.” I couldn’t agree more.